My first Cub, an 1863
 

Yesterday a friend of mine gave me an 1863 he bought new in 1995. It has not been used in a couple of years but it did crank and drive on and off the trailer. I cannot find a part number for the broken transmission lever, unless it is part of the cross shaft assembly. Also all my other hydrostatic tractors have a way to disengage the transmission, I cannot find one on this. The way you see it on the trailer is the way I picked it up except for the vise grips clamped on the transmission rod in the drive shaft tunnel he was using to drive it.

:Welcome2:

Congrats on your 1863! I have a 1864 and love it! They have auto release valves.

Parts look up for the hydro handle.
http://www.cubcadet.com/webapp/wcs/s...A/040030700004

Welcome to OCC!!

Looks like your 1863 needs a similar "update" to the update I did on my 1861!!

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/...863640x446.jpg

My daughter mows her place weekly with this one!! A short drive through the woods!!

Sounds like just minor issues. A little work and it can be looking and run like new.

Methos, the part that is broken is the rod that bolts onto the cross shaft #3 and that #4 and #5 screw onto. Though that rod bolts on it may not be a separate part. The third picture shows the broken rod that I have since removed. Thanks for the reply.

Cadplans. that does look a lot cooler than the plastic hood and side panels.
Cannon

Cannon

Very common issue. It was only riveted from the factory. The red in the pic. If you have the handle it can be bolted, welded or simply replaced. You will need to remove the dash to get at it. Kind of a PITA but not all that hard.

Yes the 2 red marks were small hex head bolts on mine. I was able to remove them after taking the battery out. I don't have the rod but if my friend can find it I could weld it back together. Thanks
Cannon

I have a 1641 that I am parting out. If there is anything you would need PM me and we'll talk.

The 1863 uses a Hydro-Gear brand pump and it should have a release lever on the rear left corner of the tunnel cover. Here is a pic of mine and if you look close you can see the round knob.

I got the same knob.

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/...1/D7K_0850.jpg

:Welcome2: Nice find on your 1863!

I looked on the tunnel cover and found the hole and markings for the release lever. I don't see any sign of the lever or what it would attach too in the tunnel but will take a closer look this afternoon.
I think I'm going to fab up a shifting rod out of a piece of 3/8 round stock.
Thanks
Cannon

I got up early this morning and fabed up a temporary rod for the transmission linkage. I'll either buy one later or make a knob for this one.
Next issue is the trans dump valve. I took a picture of what I found. Does the arm raise up and push the small plunger above the oil filter in? I need to get the deck off later today and rig something to test this. The parts picture looks like there is only a rod that goes down to this arm.
Cannon

This one might work, if you reshaped the end of that rod to resemble the tang on a file? It's the correct color, and cheap too!
http://www.tools-plus.com/stanley-22...term=STA22-311

Cannon

The rod you need is just a straight rod with a lock nut on the end that goes through the hole in the dump lever, it is flattened where it comes through the tunnel cover and it is threaded at the top for a nob. You just pull it up and twist it to lock in the slot in the tunnel cover. As you pull it up it pushes the plunger into the valve on the trans. You are missing 11, 12 & 13 in this pic

That does look good and I'm all about cheap.
Cannon

Cheap fix is just use a coat hanger with a hook on one end to pull up on the lever if you need to push the tractor. :biggrin2:

The need for help seems to be never ending. I got a piece of 1/4 rod this afternoon to make the Transmission dump valve linkage. When I tried to slide the rod down through the tunnel cover to the lever on the trans I could not find any clear path. The rod is dragging on the trans linkage and a rod that I think goes to the lift. Is this rod supposed to be straight? Maybe a coat hanger is the answer.:biggrin2:
Cannon

It's a close fit, maybe the lever at the bottom is bent a little or your cover is off to the side a little bit. Adjust as needed and happy mowing. :beerchug:

I think the part with the hole in it should be much closer to horizontal than you have it.

You only lift the rod 1.50" to disengage the transmission.

Where you have the rod, you probably need to lift it 5-6"?? :bigthink:

If it hangs down that low, you will be catchin' branches as you go through the woods!!

:biggrin2:

I got a chance to work on the Cub this morning. I cut a piece of 1/4 rod, threaded it on both ends, put a self-locking nut on the bottom and a knob off of an old woodworking jig on top. I may try to find a round knob later and figure out a way to make it latch but this is good enough for now.
On to the electrical issues. I have only been able to crank it with the switch once sense I got it. All other times I have run a jumper wire from the battery to the blue wire terminal on the solenoid. Once cranked I cannot get the PTO switch to stay engaged. The seat and brake switches seem to be working, tractor will run with the brake on and me off the tractor but will die if I release the brake. It will run with the brake off and me in the seat and die if I raise up. Why are there two switches on the seat? What other safety switches would keep the tractor from starting and the PTO to kick off? I am glad to get that cover back on over the fan, that was a little scary.
Cannon

The rod looks great!! :beerchug:

Since you got a few threads sticking out, a double nut on the bottom might be cheap insurance.

The double nut holds way more than a locking nut, and that baby can really shake.

What CAD said!

A couple tractors I have driven the PTO would kick off when trying to go in reverse...and since you had to rig a rod for the transmission gear/direction selector, it may not be activating a switch in that area.

I have not been able to solve the electrical issues yet. While cleaning the contacts on the switch I found the red/black wires not connected to anything and an empty connector on the switch, tried putting them into the empty connector but no change. I talked to the PO at church Sunday and he said sometimes he would have to turn the PTO on and off a few times before he could start the tractor with the switch. I tried that without success. I looked for a neutral safety switch but all I can see is nastiness. What is the forums opinion on spraying Cubs off at the car wash?

I thought I would post an update on the 1863. I mowed with it about 20 minutes this evening. Everything seams to be functioning well enough to use. The speed seems a good bit slower than my LT's, I think I am getting full travel on the linkage. Would changing the hydro filter make any difference? At this point I had intended to take the tractor apart and do some painting and rust control but the 100 degree heat has me whipped. I still need to find the grill, foot pad, seat cover and the screws to hold the belt guards on the deck but I feel good about getting it to this point.Thanks for all the help.
Cannon

Nice 1863, you have there!

That looks tons better then when you first got it! What size deck do you have on it? I've got the 48" and really like it.:beerchug:

It's a 48". As you can see in the picture a lot of what I mow is around trees so it's a little harder to weave in and out than the 42" LT mowers. The deck is certainly heavy duty. I put it on some saw horses to remove the blades for sharpening and about busted a gut. I can carry my 42" MTD LT deck around with one hand.
Cannon