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-   -   2084 Questions (https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=18490)

PaulS 06-09-2012 08:10 PM

2084 Questions
 
Recently I over greased the front axle and got some grease flying everywhere. I also today changed the breather filter and gasket. It was running well when I shut it off to change the breather and gasket. To accomplish this only one electrical connection was dealt with. I removed the wire from the oil sensor and today replaced it as part of the reassemble. Once we got it back together it seemed as dead as a door nail. Checked the fuse and it was blown. Replaced the fuse and it too blew. The original fuse was a 20 amp fuse. We did put a 25 amp fuse in and it started and ran only a few seconds and again the fuse blew. I know next to nothing about the electrical system so any help and or hint where to start looking would be most helpful. Would grease cause a short as the flywheel area had a bit in there and the modules are located there too.

HemiMoparGuy1981 06-09-2012 08:38 PM

It sounds like you pinched the wire somwhere during the reassembly. Do you have a volt/ohm meter? There are a couple things to check with it if you do, if not, just trace the wire until you find where it got pinched, or check ends for fraying strands (all it takes is 1) that may be touching the frame or something. Or something might be hanging down and touching the connectors...just about anything is possible with electrical

PaulS 06-11-2012 10:10 PM

My son and I checked out the wiring and found nothing amiss. Could a bad switch cause the fuse blowing problem.

HemiMoparGuy1981 06-12-2012 05:18 AM

A bad switch is not likely to cause shorting like that as most times there is not a ground wire at the switch, the individual circuits have a their own gorund and the switch just breaks (or connects) the hot leg. But it could be vaugely related to the switch, as another circuit could be shorted to ground or shorted to the circuit that is blowing. At this point you need a schematic (wiring diagram) and a volt/ohm meter. If you don't have one, the cheapest place to buy them is Harbor Freight. This one will work for THIS issue just as good as my $500 Fluke meters, so no reason to go all out and get a nice one.

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-funct...ter-98025.html

Try to get a digital version of the wiring diagram then PM me for my email and send it to me and I can try to give you pointers to look for. As it is now you need to get that meter asap and I can tell you a couple things to check prior to getting wiring diagram...but I gotta run off to work now...I'll check back in when I get home

PaulS 06-12-2012 07:08 AM

One correction to my initial post it was not the axle that I over lubed, it was the front of the drive shaft. We also have a 2086 and can switch ignitions to check things out. What dumbfounds me is the condition of the wires is very good no cracks or rub marks anywhere. I do have a multimeter and guess I have to break it out. Thanks for your help.

Sam Mac 06-12-2012 09:26 AM

Paul

I doubt that the grease job had anything to do with your problem. You can down load the wiring diagram from the Cub parts site, just put in your model # and it shows the diagram in the parts list. Just wondering if maybe you pinched a wire to the fuel shut down solenoid when you did the breather.

http://www.cubcadet.com/webapp/wcs/s...00505_-1_image

If you need more help PM me with your phone # and I'll try to help.

Mac

PaulS 06-12-2012 10:47 PM

At last all is well in Happy Valley. I toyed around most of the day with the short problem on my 2084. All I found out was every wire I checked was ok. My son called when he got home and said he and our other neighbor, a very well trained and experienced mechanic were coming down and we would definitely find the short. They came and only after a few preliminary checks the Ignition switch was unwired as all the circuits were powered by the switch. After replacing one circuit all was well after the second we found the circuit that had the short. It was the light circuit. Of course that circuit only goes from the switch to both the front and back of the tractor. In only a couple of minutes the offending wire was located near the headlights where the wire is spliced to go to both headlights. It was rubbing the edge of the muffler shield and after the fix all was well after all the wires were reconnected to the switch. Of course now I only have to replace about half the tractor to get things running again. Oh well things needed cleaned anyway. Thanks for the offers of help I may just take you up next time. Guess I owe Joe the neighbor a steak. Or maybe I'll just go up and p in his back yard. Lol

EricR 06-12-2012 11:34 PM

Yeah, and just to think I was right at that bad wire most of the time and didn't see it till we broke the switch down and figured out witch one was the problem. Oh well live and learn BUT I do know more about the wiring of these newer Supers over this problem though. :beerchug:

Methos 06-13-2012 10:57 AM

Congrats on getting it fixed! Wiring problems can drive you nuts!:bash2:

ACecil 06-13-2012 11:01 AM

Glad you got it fixed!

Sam Mac 06-13-2012 11:04 AM

Happy days are here again :beerchug:

PaulS 06-13-2012 12:56 PM

Thanks guys Duke you are absolutely right about electrical problems driving one nuts and I do not have that far to go. I am convinced that I have to break down and get a service manual for this super. Oh well at least it also covers the 2086 so one manual for both.

PaulS 06-15-2012 12:49 PM

I ordered a service manual as a fathers day present for myself. I also put the 2084 through it's paces today to see if any other problems still exist. I do have a small leak from the rear seal but it is not bad enough to warrent a tear down of my work tractor. Something else I would like to pass on. This tractor has the Kohler Command 20 and as part of my clean up I removed all the cylinder shields and really scrubbed all the motor fins as thorough as I could man the gunk that was plastered on there. Everything from grease/oil and just plain debris. Before I did this I had the near universal problem of the motor running hot and problems of restarting when hot. Those problems have disappeared. I know it is a pain and a bit of work to do this but is going to be a definite part of my annual maintenance on this fantastic machine. If anyone is having a problem with a command 20 running hot I urge you to remove the shields around each cylinder and use a bit of elbow grease to remove accumulated gunk, it will help greatly in reducing the hot problem.


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