1450 The more I dig the deeper it gets.
 

As you know a while back I purchased a 1450 at auction.
It didn't look too bad, but it wouldn't start.
It had most of the goodies I was looking for. Ag tires,wheel wts., 3pt lift and a mower.

Even though the wheel wts. were home made and it was missing slde pannels and the coil was hanging by the wires and mower s belt covers are gone.I decided I would bid on it but put my limit at $260.

Well I got the tractor for less than my maximum. And I loaded it up on the trailer. We did get it to start on the trailer at the surprise to us on how loud it was. and it didn't smoke, not all things worked as they should. Lift operated both up and down. Mower stalled the the engine when engaged. Lights didn't work. But I did get it to start, that is after I cleaned a pound of feathers out of the air filter.The dipstick tube was bouncing around, and leaking oil all over the place. But after I changed the oil and put in the right oil in, it smoked. I took it up the hill and it smoked pretty much. so I pulled the engine. and seems it was worked on before. The bore is std. with .008 wear,, and the crank is .010 under. The rear main seal was leaking, and the head gasket was leaking. Was missing some screws and bolts hear and there also. Back to the cyl bore going to bore that to .010 over. That should do it no scratches to get rid of. The biggest concern is the .002 out of round, so we will have to get the crank turned to .020 under. I don't have a spare crank. so I hope this works out.

While the engine was out I cleaned the inches of oily dirt off the frame. I then spotted the crackes in the frame. Check out these. A crack on each side, how do you say abuse. Now I'm trying to figure out how to fix this problem. any suggestions?

And , someone switched the deck lift handle to the other side .

That's not abuse, that's normal for a QL frame. Most of them crack there. Stop-drill the crack tip with a small (3/32" or smaller) drill bit and weld up the crack.

Good eye!! At first I thought the photo was flipped, but then they would of had to swap the engine around as well :biggrin2:.

The 1450 isn't a bad looking tractor. Keep at it and she'll be a nice one for ya. Once all the bugs are worked out it will be a workhorse.

I would do what matt said with the cracks and rebuild the engine. The handle I have heard of guys doing that,was someone on here had one like that. I think it would be more handy on the left anyways with the speed lever on the right.Good looking tractor !

Welded before?
 

Kinda looks like it's been welded before, not unless my eyes are tricking me. These old eyes don't see as well as they used to. That's a good idea to drill the hole at the end of the crack but for some reason or another you don't get around to doing that fore you weld it,at the end of your weld come out of the puddle foward bout 1/4 and weld back in and fill your crater. But if you have time drilling is the way to go.


luke

Thanks Matt. I give that a try.

Lukeott
Nothing wrong with your eyes yes it has been welded before.
I got out my handy dandy front frame cross member re compressor.
3/4" x 6" fine thread bolt and nut. Got the cross member back close to what it should be, and now the front axle don't move a half inch when the steering wheel is turned.
But now for the BAD news.
The crank had been worked on by a PO and the crank had been turned down .010" under. When the crank was checked it is .003" out of round.
Now if I do the top end .010 over make it better than new. I'm looking at having to get a new crank. Or toss that engine and get a new engine.
I don't know if I want to do that. maybe part this out to recoup my money and forget about it. :bigthink:

I can understand why this was at auction. It's a money pit. :crap:

+1 That will fix it.

I took the crank to the machine shop today.
We have a trick up our sleeves.
Other things to know. the 14hp had 3 oil leaks, also the head was leaking by in 2 places. oil rings were not doing it's job.
cylinder is std with .008' wear no scratches, .010 over took care of the cylinder. valves look good, they will clean up nice. push rods look ok.
lots of cleaning to do, Have to level out the head. Few other odds and ends.:BangPC:

Matt, I'm still saying abuse. the cross member was bent front half inch or so, and the baffs bent back to the blades on the mower deck. front of frame bent & cracked both sides. coil busted loose and heat shield bent. muffler box bent and busted muffler missing but muffler flange there.
maybe that's why the old grill had a hole in it. All this is more than use it adds up to abuse.

I took the grinder to the extra weld on the frame and I drilled a 3/32" hole at the end of the crack on both sides.That means I will have to repaint the frame.
My welder won't work, so I'm taking it to a friends shop to get it done.
I unloaded my trailer so I can load up the tractor this weekend, for the trip to the welding shop.

Sounds like a great plan!:beerchug:

Even if I would decide to toss in the towel and part it out I could get my money back from the sale of the parts.

Well I got my crank back this morning. And my tractor is still at the shop being welded. ~~ :bigthink:
The crank work cost 58 bucks. But it's round now. So now we start the rebuild.
I also need to get some paint to touch up where the spots that are being welded.

I hope it cools off soon, cause it is so hot in my shop I was covered in sweat in about 10 minutes.
I have to limit working in the shop to early morning and nite.

I can feel your pain, Ole. I have a 1250 nightmare that I am working on as well.

I have been given an ultimatum. Get that thing so it is usable by the end of the week-end, or we are going to buy an new one.

:bigthink:
So why do they think the new one is going to be any better?
They wont last as long as the Cubs has lasted, they are built too cheap.
Tell them I said for them to be patiant Please, Quality takes time. :bouncy:
Thank you
Ole 147

Tell the person complaining when they start mowing the yard, they can buy the tractor.:beerchug:

We priced a new Cub Cadet 2100 today, and I think it can be had for about $3500 plus the price of the deck. I think I have been given a couple of more weeks with that kind of money on the line. Early on in this venture, I made it clear that I didn't want to pass a credit check to buy a tractor. All we are going to use it for is to tend the flower gardens. I still walk behind a lawn mower.

I did the front axle carrier squeeze, and it seems as if I either have just a bit of lateral axle play or I cannot get the axle into the carrier with the primitive shop tools that I have. Has that been the norm? How is your success with this method, Ole? Is there a happy medium somewhere in the middle? I do know that it seems to steer a lot tighter, and will be better when I get new tie rod ends for the drag link and tie rod.

I have double checked the service bulletin and have installed the new ISO mounts correctly, and I had to go to 2 3/4" bolts to get the lock nuts on the ends/ I found that if I move the washer and lock washer under the engine cradle, I can get the snubbers into height spec.

Good that you now have more time to get her fixed up properly.

When you turn the steering wheel does the axle move back and forth, then it needs to be tightened.

A 3/4x6" grade 8 fine thread and matching nut and 2 flat washers.
Also measure the distance on the axel and cut a 2x4 just slightly longer.
This is your gage block place in the cross member next to the bolt.
tightening the bolt until it touches the block, you will insure that you dont over tighten the cross member to much.
Well anyway thats how I did it.

All I use to get the axel back in is a floor jack.
raise tractor by lifting the frame get axel in place slowly lower frame.
Stop adjust axel lower frame a bit more till the pin can be inserted.

I got the engine ready to go back in the tractor.
But first I have to get the welding finished and the area repainted.
I have almost 400 buckes in the rebuild.
The engine is nice n tight.
Now when I get the frame ready I can install the better than new power plant.

I called the welder, he said it will be ready for me later in the afternoon.
I have to pickup some paint then get ready for the tractor.
Hopefully it wont be too hot in my shop for me to work.

:bigthink:
Let me recap what was done to the engine.
Well first this engine was worked on by a PO.
First gunk had to be cleaned off the engine from all the oil leaks.
The gaskets had gasket sealer on them. In these old Kholers you never ever
use a gasket sealer that comes in contact with the engine oil.
Small peice of gasket sealer in the wrong place and your engine is shot.
The bore was STD but it was worn .008, lucky me no scratches.
Bored cyl .010 over. The piston was bad but couldn't use it anyway.
The crank had already been turned .010 under, but the jurnal was .003 out of round, That's too much Bob! but Kholer don't like you to go under .010. on the crank.
We took a chance here went .020 under on crank used a bushing on the rod
so we can get what Kholer likes.
Valves and seats were great just resufaced them a bit. dressed up the push rods. tappets were great.
The head, I offten wonered why they used an alumiun head on a cast iron engine. well the head leaked in ,well many places. So that got shaved just a bit
The carb was all sloppy too, so that got bored and nice bushings and shaft and a rebuild kit cause the needle n seat leaked.
Installed and it's snug now. I think thats it for the more major stuff.
Hope it works.:biggrin2:

to solve the front axle slop just buy a bolt the same size as the hole in the front axle & long enof to put a nut on & drill a hole threw the nut & bolt after its tight & put a cotter pin in it or mechics wire "DONE" no more slop !.thats what they do on the supers they dont use a pin in the axle with a dowell its a bolt & nut.the one in the pic is for a 982 super :beerchug:

It's not quite that easy on something earlier than an 82 series. The head of the bolt has to be machined down to clear the oil pan.

I thank you but I have my slop fixed.
By use of a gage block cut the size I need for the axel it all went like i had done it before.
It's almost perfect.
And I say "That's almost good" :bouncy:
Ole 147

Aaaagggggg!!! :bash2::crap:I was told to use a small amount of gasket sealer on my engine rebuild. Should I take it back apart to remove all the sealer?

No, as long as you didn't use half the tube on the pan gasket or throw big globs in there, it's fine. There's RTV all over the place on the KT and Magnum twins and it doesn't normally cause any problems. I did have one KT-17 Series II that had a huge glob of RTV get into the oil gallery and get lodged in the crank, causing it to throw one rod into the cam, but I can't see it becoming an issue on a splash-lube engine because any chunks would somehow have to get flung into the oil hole on the rod and stick, and that's very unlikely to happen.

That's good to know. I only used enough to make the gasket stick while I was putting it back together.

I generally don't like RTV silicone sealers. I generally use a non-hardening sealer like the orange stuff from Wurth. Designed for gasketless joints, anerobic sealant. Just smear a thin coat on the gasket. Or even the old Hi-tack. Wipe down the outside with a rag and a bit of brake cleaner.

I hate getting silicone remains off from the last person. Newer car engines don't like the RTV's as a small piece can clog a jet/hole/etc and you end up needing to rebuild an engine.

Michael

I would take it apart if you used very little. The problem is the sealer ooses on the inside and if that breaks off and gets in the oil it lodges on to a oill port it keeps oil out well I don't have to explain the rest. the more you use the more the chances.
Opps, I meant to say I wouldn't take it apart if it was just a little sealer, but I don't use any sealer in crankcase oil area.
I've been working on engines since I was in school back in the 60's, but now that I'm retired I just do it for fun.
I guess cause I'm too busted up to work on them fast. can't type good neither. And my eyes are getting bad.

Ok I am putting the tractor back together.
Slow going since I injured my hand. (not done while working on tractor)
I did find some things I have to take care of before I get it put together.
Loose bolt and broken parts. I will be working on that today.
I have to get this back together and broke in enough to do mowing since my MTD Cub is down for maint. so I need to get this finished. :beerchug:

And exactly how many engines have you seen destroyed because someone used the correct, small amount of gasket sealer? I just explained how the odds of this bothering a splash-lube engine are astronomically low. There is no reason to take the engine apart and replace all the gaskets again...Like I already said, the KT and Magnum twins use it extensively to seal the crankcase and jugs, and as long as no more than is needed is used, there is no problem with it.

:bigthink:
You mean other than the one on my friends workbench and in his back room of his shop course he's been working on these since these cubs were first made. and the one I had. I don't know.
I never counted them but they aren't all cubs just same splash system.
But besides that, I'm ready to fire up this 1450.
I think I have all the bolts tight and busted parts fixed or replaced on the tractor. I didn't do any repainting.
Going to do the break-in Monday I hope.
If everything works ok, I'll repaint it later.
It is going to be a worker not a show piece.
PS yes I put oil in it. and I have oil to change after my short run in. I run them for bout 15 min then shut it down and drain the oil good, and refill with good oil for air cooled engines. then do my run in. Check everything out before putting it into service. :beerchug:
:Forgot: sorry I forgot to take pictures of the rebuild.

IT's ALIVE......:beerchug:
Long Live the CUB!
:biggrin2:

Congrats!

oh, and ....

:TTWWP::TTWWP:

Awesome news! It's a great feeling!