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-   -   147 steering issues (https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=19019)

John147 07-08-2012 06:49 PM

147 steering issues
 
A couple of months ago my steering box fell apart but before that i could always turn better left than right.

So fast forward to now i finally rebuilt the steering box adjusted it on the bench and still i can still turn better left then right. I tried removing the cam follower and centering the box but nope still doing the same thing.

what am i doing wrong here it must be something stupid but i can't seem to get this right.

Sam Mac 07-08-2012 06:54 PM

I disconnect the drag link turn the wheel all the way to the right then all the way to the left counting how many turns to go from lock to lock. Then I set the wheel in the middle with the tires straight ahead and adjust the drag link so that it lines up in the new position. Should get you close. :beerchug:

John147 07-08-2012 08:58 PM

I tried this early on and even with the drag link all the way in it's still to long.

John147 07-09-2012 08:57 AM

I was thinking this morning and does anyone have the length for the factory drag link maybe this one was replaced with the wrong one at one point.

Sam Mac 07-09-2012 11:31 AM

I think I read something about them being made that way so that they would turn more one way than the other to make it easier to mow. Never did understand the logic in that.

Methos 07-09-2012 12:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John147 (Post 142392)
I was thinking this morning and does anyone have the length for the factory drag link maybe this one was replaced with the wrong one at one point.

Pics would help.

:WWP:

rtwest 07-09-2012 02:43 PM

Steering issues
 
If your mower deck discharges to the right, you will likely want to turn left around the flower beds, etc., to avoid bouncing debris off them. YT Rich.

John147 07-09-2012 06:22 PM

Ask and you shall receive pics. If it was a little off i wouldn't care but just look how bad it is almost impossible to mow turning right and while snow blowing forget it can not do.
Drag link
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...9/DSC_0121.jpg
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...9/DSC_0122.jpg
Full lock left
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...9/DSC_0123.jpg
Full lock right
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...9/DSC_0124.jpg

Sam Mac 07-09-2012 06:53 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Well I see one thing wrong, you should have a rod end on the end that attaches to the steering box rather than a clevis.

Matt G. 07-09-2012 09:51 PM

That's not a clevis, it's a heim joint.

Is the forward ball joint bottomed out yet? The drag link needs to get shorter. I'm wondering if you have a WF drag link on there, as I think those are longer.

clay1811/44c 07-09-2012 11:06 PM

John my dad gave me his 1811 and the steering was off center. It had 1 1/8 turn one way and 1 7/8 the other, roughly. Checked around on this site and found some answers. First I found the toe in was off by a 1/2". Next thing I found was the steering knuckle bolts weren't tight. Bolt was turning in the sleeve and not the sleeve turning in the axel. Also tightened up the pivot bolt for the axel. Then I tweeked the pin in the steering box trying to get as much play out of it as I dare. After that was all done I adjusted the link between the steering box and knuckle. Found it was set longer than it needed to be.
Looking at things I noticed two balljoints had been replaced. One on the steering link and one on the drag link. In talking to my dad he had replaced both those joints. The new joints are longer than the old joints. The jam nuts had been left in place a new ball joints installed, thus lengthing both links. Maybe your heim joint was replaced the same way.
I hope all that rambling will help.

John147 07-10-2012 06:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt G. (Post 142483)
That's not a clevis, it's a heim joint.

Is the forward ball joint bottomed out yet? The drag link needs to get shorter. I'm wondering if you have a WF drag link on there, as I think those are longer.

The forward ball joint is tight. I really think this is a WF drag link, But i am having an issue on finding what the lengthen should be for both so i can tell 100% what i have.

Matt G. 07-10-2012 06:47 AM

Given the number of people on here with both NF and WF tractors, I'd hope someone could measure both for you and post the lengths...

jbrewer 07-10-2012 06:52 AM

Without the drag link connected, can you move the spindles in the axle an equal amount?

John

Sam Mac 07-10-2012 07:33 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt G. (Post 142483)
That's not a clevis, it's a heim joint.

Is the forward ball joint bottomed out yet? The drag link needs to get shorter. I'm wondering if you have a WF drag link on there, as I think those are longer.

Matt

Unless I'm going blind the second pic shows a rod end clevis connected to the steering box. My guess is it's binding and the drag link is probably the wrong length also.

akilheffer 07-10-2012 07:53 AM

Steering link measurement
 
On my 107, the length from center to center of the ball joint studs is right about 17", the length of the rod appears to be about 15" (that's just a close approximation- I didn't pull the ends off to measure).
Hope this helps, Andy

Matt G. 07-10-2012 04:06 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Mac (Post 142561)
Matt

Unless I'm going blind the second pic shows a rod end clevis connected to the steering box. My guess is it's binding and the drag link is probably the wrong length also.

I think you're going blind...that's a heim joint, just like these:

Attachment 26611

Sam Mac 07-10-2012 04:40 PM

John147

We need a close up pic of the connection to the steering box. I say it's a clevis and Matt says it's a hiem joint.

ksanders 07-10-2012 04:44 PM

I have a different theory to try quick. Looking at your pics it appears the wheels aren't lined up straight. With the steering straight are both wheels pointing straight or is one off a little? Maybe the two tie rods are just reversed, meaning the one for the spindle to spindle and the one from the spindle to steering box got switched at one point? Worth looking at. That would give you the slight difference in length causing all the trouble.

John147 07-10-2012 05:25 PM

I hate to declare this but Matt is right that is a heim joint.

So here are my measurements.

With everything off the drag link 15 1/2" end to end and just the rod no threads 12 1/4". The tie rod is well over 20 inches so the wheels may be a little off but the rods sure not switched.

I also noticed while surfing ebay the narrow frame drag links listed have a slight bend where they attached to the steering box and mines just straight.

Sam Mac 07-10-2012 05:34 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Well I guess I'm going blind but I do know what a Hiem joint looks like, had 6 of them on this.

John147 07-10-2012 08:55 PM

Okay here's is another question to make sure i have my box right. I know the ross steering box is a 2 turn box i had assumed thst this meant from center that it takes one turn to the left to hit lock and one to the right to hit lock. While reading on another forum is said it should be 2 turned in each direction to hit lock to lock. Is what i am thinking right or wrong?

Matt G. 07-10-2012 10:39 PM

The drag link isn't supposed to be bent...the ones you're seeing on epay are all messed up. The steering box is 2 turns lock to lock. Whoever told you two in each direction was wrong.

Vince_o 07-11-2012 08:02 PM

Sam

Ill trade you Volvo and 2 kids for that! Pm me!


I think Im with Kev and Matt, a little of both, definatly NOT the right set up for the 147.

Sam Mac 07-11-2012 08:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vince_o (Post 142835)
Sam

Ill trade you Volvo and 2 kids for that! Pm me!


I think Im with Kev and Matt, a little of both, definatly NOT the right set up for the 147.

Vince

If you put that in a Cub you just may want to beef it up, just a little. :biggrin2:

jcsmith 07-12-2012 07:59 PM

drag link length
 
John147, On my 104 the drag link measures 15 9/16 " end to end, and the tie rod is 17 3/8 " . Hope this helps, Chris . Measured without ball joints.

dbuck 07-13-2012 10:15 AM

:beerchug:Okay fellows, just measured mine. 127, 17 1/2" Joint end to joint end. 149, 16 1/2" joint end to joint end. :American Flag 1:

John147 07-13-2012 08:47 PM

Okay grabbed a new drag link and still 1 1/4 left and 3/4 right now i just need that quarter of a turn to mover right and i will be good.

CLE CUB 05-29-2013 10:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Mac (Post 142561)
Matt

Unless I'm going blind the second pic shows a rod end clevis connected to the steering box. My guess is it's binding and the drag link is probably the wrong length also.

These are definitely hiem joints. I ordered a set for my 108 from McMaster Carr. I replaced both the tie rod ends and drag link ends. They were about 3/8 inch longer that the stock 1's but the they work great and have grease fittings. Replacing them took a lot of play out of the steering. Gonna try and tighten up the pivot bolt today maybe. I can see it moving when i turn the wheel.

Here is the part number for McMaster Carr if anyone wants to try them out. They were $6.20 each.

PN: 4444T931

_____________________
Cub 108
Farmall Cub

ACecil 05-29-2013 10:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CLE CUB (Post 197051)
These are definitely hiem joints. I ordered a set for my 108 from McMaster Carr. I replaced both the tie rod ends and drag link ends. They were about 3/8 inch longer that the stock 1's but the they work great and have grease fittings. Replacing them took a lot of play out of the steering. Gonna try and tighten up the pivot bolt today maybe. I can see it moving when i turn the wheel.

Here is the part number for McMaster Carr if anyone wants to try them out. They were $6.20 each.

PN: 4444T931

_____________________
Cub 108
Farmall Cub

Welcome to OCC! Glad to have you!

Cubcrazy 05-29-2013 11:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CLE CUB (Post 197051)
These are definitely hiem joints. I ordered a set for my 108 from McMaster Carr. I replaced both the tie rod ends and drag link ends. They were about 3/8 inch longer that the stock 1's but the they work great and have grease fittings. Replacing them took a lot of play out of the steering. Gonna try and tighten up the pivot bolt today maybe. I can see it moving when i turn the wheel.

Here is the part number for McMaster Carr if anyone wants to try them out. They were $6.20 each.

PN: 4444T931

_____________________
Cub 108
Farmall Cub


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