Restoration is what the soul needs
 

Like most of you guys, I have restored a lot of items in my life. Everything from a 73 Cuda, 1966 Shelby,1973 J-4000 Jeep, various Comanche's. Tractors. Compound bows. Guns, Vintage tin toys,,, !! Houses, Race cars,,,,Boats. Just about anything I can get my hands on. So here is a link to MySpace that shows the reincarnation of a 1958 Feather Craft that had been in the woods way too long. If anyone needs to know how to flush patch by shooting real rivets with bucking bars ,,,,let me know. I love working sheet metal. I have a brake, roller,shear, English wheel and forming stumps. Along with the usual lathes, mig, plasma gun. I'm glad to share.

http://www.myspace.com/eagle60127

Thanks for the neat link Eagle Keeper! :ThumbsUp:

EK, Great work on the boat! I wish I had the space and tools you have! You are welcome to come up and visit with your boat. We live on Owasco Lake. I have a 65 Chris Craft (my other CC) that I bought in original condition.

Bob,

I might take you up on that. I lived on Conesus lake for 6 yrs.

Mark

gentemen,
I would like your suggestions on primer and rust pits.How deep for before haveing to use bondo Ect. Mark you posted about this could you again? and whats a good way to clean up an engine and rear,sand blast ect.Do you just tape over where you dont want sand?the engine is together.
Thanks, jason

Hey guys Im looking at primer on ebay right now and I need your help!!
Here is a couple links......Witch do you think would be best for a gallon??
And would a gallon be enough to prime a 123 and a 70?
Thanks Jason
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AUTO-...motiveQ5fTools

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1-GAL...motiveQ5fTools

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SEM-M...motiveQ5fTools

Is urethane better or epoxy? self etching direct to metal (DTM) or just plain DTM?? All suggestions will be greatly appreciated.I have spent ALOT of time researching this and think im possibly overthinking it!!!
Jason

http://i725.photobucket.com/albums/w...ydro/paint.jpg
This is the paint I plan on using.Should I get a enamel primer instead of a epoxy,does it matter?
I have ken Updikes phone number and will get the paint from him.
Jason

I would not sand blast the engine or the rear end. You are just asking for trouble. Sand will work its way into every nook and cranny and there is no way you would be able to keep it all out.

Easy off oven cleaner will clean all the dirt and grease and some paint off. You should be able to just wire brush the rear end and engine after that and paint.

I like to use an epoxy primer from Nasson, its metal etching and you can use it right over bare metal as well as primer or old paint basically using it for a sealer before you paint. I don't have a number here at home, I can find out next time I run out to the shop.


Randy

Come on randy....I cant sand blast the whole stinking thing!!! I got the generic sand blaster,I want to blast the whole world,LOL.
Thanks man ,I was kinda thinking the same thing but was intrested in you guys opinions!!
Let me know the numbers,that stuff is nice on epay and I want something that will "fill the rust pits!! but darn expensive,although I got the wifes approval!! I just dont want to spray paint over a primer thant wont except it.
Have you seen paul bells tractors hes built? I read a post once that he said he used the case Iron gard.I wonder if you can add a hardner to case paint??
Thanks Jason

Jason, thanks for the nice Message. This is going to throw you, but cheap primer is good primer when it comes to spray bombs. Just grab the stuff at Walmart. As far as canned primer,,,,don't use the stuff from tractor supply houses. Get a good sandable primer from an automotive paint supplier. Don't use napa !! Their prices are way off base. Sand the part down as best as you can , it just has to be roughed up for the primer to adhere. Start of by dusting the primer. That means drop back about a foot and spray the primer until you can just see the color on the piece. Then back off for 5 minutes and hit it again. WHY ? Because if there is grease or oil on the part , a heavy coat of primer will fish eye. If you hit it thin with multiple coats the primer will seal the trouble areas because the coating dries too fast for a chemical reaction with the oil. After you have a good primer coat, then start to hit it with more coats. Each coat should never be glossy . If it is, you are spraying too thick. After the third coat, 5 minutes between coats, let it dry for half an hour and sand it with 180-220 grit. Just enough to break the surface of the paint. This will show you where the low spots are in regards to pitting or bad body work. Repair the bad body work and just hit the pitting areas a few more times. The Cub paint has a lot of solids in it, so it will fill in a lot of imperfections. You can spray bomb primer the whole tractor with 4 cans. To paint the tractor with a final color from Cub will take 2 qts of appropriate yellow and one qt of appropriate white. It's a learning process but the Cub paint is very forgiving.

Mark
I do not want to spray bomb it!! This may sound silly but I have been saving to buy a cheap hvlp gun and another for primer,I know cheap aint great but after paint and primer cheap will have to do.If cheap breakes after 1 tractor Ill go get another cheap and before you know it I could of bought a good one!!It just works for me that way it will take a long time to save for a 300+ dollar gun!
I want to shoot it this way for future projects,get used to the gun.
So I really dont need a expensive primer?
Ok here is the deal,I am very particular , I will never show the tractor but I want a show quality paint job,Or as close as someone as inexperienced as I can get!! I am the type of person that will strip the whole peice if im not happy,but will take the same peice to the garden and plow like a son of a gon,and use it! It may seem crazy but I want to put that much effort into my paint job,and my wallet will only allow about 1/2 that.I dont want to spray bomb my tractor unless someone as experienced with paint as yourself can reassure me it will hold up to the sun,be tough as nails when im done,and look darn good!
Thanks and any comments,reccomendations,will be appreciated.
I was planning to buy the primer kit on ebay 131.00 including shipping its 1 gallon white DTM epoxy primer,2 qts primer hardner and 1 qt medium reducer,what do you think??
Dont hesitate to be honest,silly purchase,do i need this for a stinking tractor,or am I moveing in the right direction towards the paint job im looking for?
Jason

Listen-

Buy the small gravity feed cup gun at Lowes, they are EXCELLENT! and don't doubt me, cost is about $43. Keep it clean and it'll last you through three or four tractors. The plastic cup and lid seem to want to crack with age but they'll last you longer than a year, save your reciept and return it if it does crack. For the money this is a quality gun.

Now for about $55 you can buy 1 gallon of self-etching non-catylist primer, I like Marhyde. This will get you through a lot of metal, maybe two tractors if you took them down 100%.

Scott

Thhanks Scott,
Have tou used the gravity feed for bth primer and color?And thanks for the reccomendations for the primer I will check it out.
Jason

What Scott said. I like the inexpensive guns for shooting Enamel. Two guns...
The Campbell Hausfeld HVLP dh7800 gun and the Kobalt Small Gravity Feed Spray Gun. Both are below 80 bucks and work well. It's not so much the gun as the guy using it. Practice !! Don't buy a gallon of paint if you can help it. Get a Quart or two. Go to a local automotive paint store and tell them what you are doing. Tell them you want to use Acrylic Enamel with a hardener and fish eye retardant . I would imagine in your part of the country it's pretty low humidity. So use a medium reducer.

While we're on this subject....I've got to paint my loader when I install it on my 782. At the same time, I've got some wheels and odds and ends that I want to paint the same shade of white. I've got most of a quart of Valspar IH white that I have used to paint mower decks and a Brinly plow. I've also got most of a quart of primer for use with that paint. I'd like to use some better paint, but I need something reasonably-priced that will last. First off though, I've never used hardener with the paint I already have, and it takes probably 3 months to fully cure. I know hardener will help this, but I've heard hardener is some pretty nasty stuff and has a really short shelf life after it is opened. How long does it last, and what sort of respirator-type thing do I need to safely use it?

Anybody got reasonably-priced suggestions for acrylic enamel? My dad has a crappy sears gun that I've been using for primer and paint with halfway decent results, and an HVLP gun we've never tried. We want to get some practice, as I have an Original I'd like to restore, and my dad has a couple of Farmalls to restore. I've got a 100 to practice on before I do the O.

Matt, the hardener really works well. I never heard any bad things about shooting hardener. Now shooting two part urethane is bad news. I stay away from it. Practice with the HLVP, because is really lays down the paint. If you start to see it orange peel,,,stop ! It's getting ready to run. I know that doesn't make sense, but it's true. Give it an hour and it will lay out.

This is exactly why I suggested in another thread no to use this type of material.

Acrylic enamel-

8 parts paint
4 parts reducer
1 part 'wet look' hardner and if you want it to cure a little faster then push the hardner just a bit.

Don't be intimidated by using a catylist product.

FULL cure time should be around 72 hours however small parts may be baked after 24 hours for a super hard finish.

Scott

Agreed on the HVLP but also you'll need a continous running HVLP compressor and let the compressor run for a few minutes to get up to temp as it's the warm air that helps too.

Scott

The hvlp guns today don't use the special compressor, they just use your regular air supply. We had a one those first hvlp guns with its own air supply over 20 years ago, and the air heating up was a problem. It made the paint dry too fast and caused a lot of dry spray and orange peel.



Randy

Nice brown..............

That's interesting, I didn't like them 10 years ago and I don't think I'd like one now.
Everyone is so sensitive around here about what's good and bad... bla bla bla.


Scott

I wasn't meaning anything bad about it, I just didn't want someone thinking they had to buy a hvlp gun with its own air supply.

Sorry if I offended anyone, it wasn't meant that way.



Randy

Now were getting somewhere!!
I dont think you guys should get offended about other peopls opinions,heres why,I have read about litrealy 15 ways to shoot paint on the different fourms,on paintin custom car forms ect, we all have an opinion and I like to hear all the different opinions and take from each what works for me! Isnt that what this is about we all pitch in to help and we all skin a cat different!! we use what works for us.Out the door again will see you all later!!
Thanks
jason

That's funny :biggrin2.gif: I had forgot all about the vacuum cleaner HLVP guns that came out years ago. Yeah, those were a hoot. Now You just crank up your regular compressor , run it through a regulator,crank it down to about 15-20 lbs [for this paint ] and spray away. Lets get one thing straight I'm not a painter by any means, but I can lay certain paints very well. I guess that makes me a specialist.... :GoodLuck: As far as the touchy feely thing,,,as we get to know each other over time this will all equal out . Believe me, we all have something in common. I don't mean the Cubs. It's something else that draws us to the Cubs to begin with. :HeadScratch:

Well I will be the first to say I am wrong. I did a little googling and they still use those type of guns.

I am a mobile auto glass tech and am in body shops every day. I don't see any production shops using them, and it has been 15 years since I was a painter in a body shop. Maybe there are parts of the country where they use them for production, I dont' know. I think they were first designed for furniture refinishing.

I would think for the home shop a hvlp gun using a normal air supply would be the easiest route. I still use my Devilbliss gfg 503 gravity feed gun that I bought over 20 years ago and love it. Best money I have spent.


Randy

I have painted my own cars since I was 16 years old. I can tell you I have tried many different types of setups. Like all painters I have favorite colors that I love to paint, and a few favorite tools I love.

Over the last few years I have been trying out different brands of paint with the base clear type paints. In the past I always shot Martin Senior paints, but their Ultra 7000 series cured me. I never could get the clear to flow out worth a darn.

Now days I use Dupont Chroma Base for base clear jobs. I also like the Omni paints for single stage stuff.

I guess it all boils down to using the equipment you are comfortable with, and using good materials.

I used to swear by etching primers, but had problems with some, so now I usually go with a quality epoxy primer, the do my filler work, followed by a two part filler primer. Lots of block sanding, then paint.

I had a hell of a time painting my GTS, because of paint match problems, then clear coat problems ect... but if you want to check out what can be done in a barn yard, and two car garage check out my GTS Dart page.

http://www.gtsdave.com/html/body_work.html

I havent updated it in a long time, but it will give you an idea of what can be done with a lot of determination, and hard work. It is a continuous learning process, so take notes, experiment, and most of all have fun with it. It is no longer a hobby when it isn't fun anymore.

-Dave