1250 trans release lever
 

Just got a 1250, and if anyone could provide a diagram or description of what the "release-drive" lever on the right side below the seat on this older model connects to I would appreciate it. I haven't been able to make it out on any on-line dragrams found so far, and with the rear covers off still can't figure out what's missing. That small lever shaft under the frame top cover is not connected to anything and the Cub stars & runs fine but the trans will not engage in either direction. Filled to the top of the rear differential plug with the HY trans fluid, it took the better part of 1 gallon, but still no movement. I can push this Cub so I assume either the trans is disengaged or it was already ruined. I'll be optimistic and change the filter just in case it's that simple. Thanks for any help on this.

First off Welcome to OCC!

Remove the tunnel cover and there should be a flapper attached to the release lever. It might be broke or missing altogether.
The release valves might be stuck down too which why it pushed easily but won't move on its own.

There is a medel flap that attaches directly around that lever held in by a roll pin 95% of the time that flap is broke off or missing all together. Look at the release valves on top of the pump there is two little numbson top one on each valve. If they are pushed down flush with the valve they are stuck. Try using a good penetrating oil and squirt the heck out of them for a.week or so. If they don't pop up then I would start look into a replacement or if you know somebody close by with good working valves just swap them out and see how that works

No Go Tractor
 

You may have a broken roll pin in one of the couplers on you're drive shaft, Check those also!

I agree with the other posters that there is probably a broken piece or two when it comes to the lever. Broken roll pins are common, and that charge pump valve release lever isn't one of IH's best engineering ideas.

I also agree, that with the transaxle low a gallon of HyTran, you could have some worn and/or sticky relief valves. If you don't find any broken roll pins, and you are unable to get the valve plungers to come up, you may need to replace or rebuild your valves. I would recommend against used valves. There is no reason to replace 35 plus year old valves with 35 plus year old valves, unless they have been rebuilt.

If you were to look on eBay under Cub Cadet, you will find a gentleman who rebuilds those Sunstrand pump valves. I haven't used the service, but I understand that he does pretty good work. New valves are available, but are very expensive. Were this me, I would give the rebuilt option a try.

Good luck with your project.

New Valves are in the neighborhood of $60.00 Ea.
Rebuild is about 1/2 that.
--320670405175. ebay
But you might be lucky and it is just a broken spirol pin as others mentioned.
Very rarely do the hydro's go bad.

Thanks very much for replies
 

Gentlemen -

Thanks for the replies - I did find the missing stamped steel lever-flap for the valves online today. I took off the filter to replace it and it had just a trace of oil in it. Running the motor for a minute doesn't seem to be drawing any oil up through the tube.

I opened the top plate and found no sludge or other surprises in the bottom of the transaxle. I guess I could start it for a few seconds and see if I can feel suction where the tube connects on top. The two valve studs are visible about 1/4 inch above the nuts and a little press with a lever could not move them down. Should the running pressure push them up?

Make extra sure the hydro is actually turning, and that the spirol drive pin(s) are not sheared, ----it is sometimes hard to see.
@ times the hydro can appear to be turning, but is doing so very slowly, because the pin is broken either in front or back.
Check close!
Yes,
the pressure should push them fully up
Luck!

probably a bad pump
 

I felt no suction at the filter intake with the tube disconnected so I assume the pump in the top end must be bad. The top end of the trans is spinning with the motor for sure.

There are little "check balls" inside of the valves with the nipples inside of them, just because the pins themselves are up, doesn't necessarily mean the valves themselves are good or working. If you can find someone close by that has working check valves you could borrow, I would change them out first and see what happens. These are way easier to change out than changing out the hydro pump itself. If it still doesn't work with known to be good valves, then I would start looking for a parts tractors, you don't want to pay to rebuild the bad pump, everything I have seen on getting them rebuild is very expensive. As far as I know, all the valves interchangeable, manual release or auto dump valves, as for parts tractors for a replacement pump, I believe any wide frame, quiet line, and 7 series should work. A wide frame and QL with hydro lift would be a great parts tractor, then you could add the hydro lift option as well.

Smithth11
If your not in a great hurry - I have a pair to rebuild as free test loaners. The pin can be up and still bypass all pressure.

Thanks. I did find that the oil suction may have been bumped and the furrel at the top end was not installed properly. The tube was bent a bit and the top furrel was not all the way onto the riser and fell off when I took the tube out.

I'm going to put hytrans directly into the top end in case it needs some kind of prime after potentially sucking air, reset the pickup tube, and that will be my last try to see if the trans is any good.

I need to change the HyTran in my 1250 Nightmare. Because my reverse seemed a little weak last fall when I but the machine away for the winter, I am wondering about the condition of my valves as well. I am very interested in the results you get with the service that you are doing.

Please keep us informed. Thanks, and good luck with your project.

A bit more investigation today uncovered a sheared-in-half aluminum flywheel drive cup. Although it was still spinning the trans shaft when the motor ran hopefully it was "skipping by" and lowering the shaft rpm enough that is the reason the hydro doesn't draw oil up from the bottom. So maybe the trans is OK after all.

The steel coupler had been tack welded to the shaft, probalby when the pin went missing. I guess if it was not perfectly aligned it probably stressed the aluminum coupler.

Good to hear you found the culprit.:beerchug:

Glad you got it figured out! :beerchug:

Glad you found the problem. I'll have to remember that one for future reference.

Its shameful what people do to "FIX" something broken on one of these tractors.
Keep chipping away at these "Hack Job" fixes. Soon you will have your Cub mechanically where it should be. My 1650 was all together but mechanically in sad shape when I got it. It took about six months to get it right, but I'm happy with it now.