found a 2082
 

Well my addiction is growing - here is a 2082 this week that came with a good looking 450 snowblower and 50c deck.

Plastic is in bad shape but overall the rest is in decent shape.

And what Cyclops would be complete without a few electrical headaches.

I keep blowing the 20 amp fuse that sits off the POS battery connection at the solenoid. It blows as soon as I turn the key switch one click which I believe is the lights position.

with the hood, lights and all the plastic removed I checked the blue light wire and had continuity to ground.

Just want to confirm that all that points a short in the lights somewhere, having a heckofa time finding it so far.

Hydro fan looks to be on backwards also.

Thanks and here are some pics

Nice find on the super and attachments!

Did you check the wire going to the TAIL LIGHTS?? :bigthink:

not all of it, just the easy to see spots so far, most of the light wires are coiled up in electrical tape so I'll have to look harder.

just wanted to confirm the blue wire to ground was a problem like I thought.

thanks! and Happy Easter

My 1862 did the same thing. Run all day but a few seconds with the lights on she'd pop the fuse. Turned out to be a broken headlight bulb, it was shorting out inside the headlight assembly. Check and make sure the bulbs did not get bent or broken.

Thanks WM, all the lights are disconnected and the hood/grill/ side panels are removed. so I guess it must be in the wiring somewhere.

any chance its the ignition switch I wonder?

Yep the fan is on back wards. I'd PM Roland and see if he has a wiring diagram for your tractor, he will need the serial number.

Awesome score!:beer2:

If you turn the key to the run position and then put the fuse in does it blow then? If not the problem is the lighting. The wire going into the key switch should be a blue wire. You could also disconnect it and see what happens. I do have a diagram for an 1882 can’t say for sure it’s the same. If you want it PM me with your e-mail address and I’ll send it to you.

Thanks Sam,

I PM'd you my email.

I'll try it with the switch in run position then put the fuse in. I'm out of fuses for today unless I borrow from the 2284, since it's Easter I'm probably not getting more fuses til tomorrow!

Thanks!

Just sent it. :beerchug:

Thanks again-

More info for full disclosure-

At first it would start, blow fuse, but continue to run and run well, M20 sounded good.

had to replace fuse each time to start but it cranked up right away.

now it cranks but won't start

PO thought the Ignition module was bad and even included the new coil in the purchase. Engine sounded awefully good to me when it was running but I did replace spark plugs, oil, filter ect.

Have not replaced coil as it looks like i need to pull engine for that and that's a new step for me.

thanks again all.

should add that I jumped the fuse to get it to crank but no start, don't want to do anymore jumping the fuse though- seems like a bad idea.

Congrats on the 2082!

My 2284 pulled a similar trick. It would run fine for days then just randomly quit running sometimes it would blow the fuse sometimes it wouldnt. Finally figure out the key switch was corroded. Unhooked it, cleaned everything on the switch and plug then No more problems.

Nice Super! Take your time, you'll find the short eventually. If it was running dtrong, the coil is probably not the issue. It doesn't sound like you've run it for long enough to get it hot, which is when those coils were more likely to fail under the resistance from heat. How many hours? If it's blowing the lights fuse right away, there has to be a short to ground somewhere in the lighting circuit. Patience, and you'll get it. If the coil DOES turn out to be bad, you can slide the motor forward to get the blower housing off, and also pull the driveshaft to flip the fan.

thanks Tom and DS,

DS I have a newer ignition switch on my 2284 that I may swap cause that is on my list of suspects.

Tom - so I can just slide the engine if I detach the drive shaft and remove mounting bolts underneath? won't need a hoist/lift? I have a comealong but don't trust my ceiling strength yet to support very much and don't need a collapse.

Thanks again guys-

oh forgot- approx 775 hours

Low hours. You'll get the wiring fixed.:beerchug:

Todays update-

fuse blows when inserted if key is in run or run w/lights position.

I have removed blue light wire from ig switch and swapped ignition switch with a known working replacement same part #.

If I move thru the wiring schematic it looks like Coil or Alternator next on the list?

Thanks!

Haven't seen mention of it in this thread - does the PTO switch work properly? And yes, slide the motor forward. Keep track of the engine mount spacers, once its free, you can hobble it up onto the front corner of the frame without assistance. You could also get it onto a 5 gallon bucket turned upside-down which makes a nice little engine stand for cleaning and degreasing...

Another quick update.

1. if I turned the switch fast to crank position fuse was fine but it would only crank, not turn over.

2. I uplugged the 3 wire molded plug coming form the engine(white coil wire, oil sensor wire and Alternator wire). and the fuse didn't blow in any position.

Again supporting Coil or Alternator as problems.

Right or off base?
Thanks!

Tom - Engine wont engage if PTO switch is on at start so the safety switch works. Right now I have unplugged the grey wire up at the clutch to minimize variables.

On sliding the engine:
It looks like the engine mounts to a plate and the plate can slide on the frame a few inches. right?

Thanks for helping!

I'd start looking for a bare wire in or around the engine. Sometimes these things can be a PITA to find. Time for the meter.

OK well you know the issue is at the engine. White wire is the kill wire for the mags and is not powered; it goes to ground when you turn it off. I’m leaning towards a short in the oil warning wire.

I remove the 6 bolts from under the frame and pull the engine and the plate together. Pull the hood off, disconnect the drive shaft, wiring and fuel.

Thanks guys,

first I had left one spark plug unattached so I'm back to being able to start and run engine but fuse blows after about a second in the run position. ran it for awhile to burn thru old gas and it sounds great.

after shutting it down I did basic continuity tests on 3 engine wires at the connector by the heat shield.

green wire to oil sensor had cont to ground
white wire NO cont to ground
black wire had cont to ground.

I recently had the same problem on my 2084. It would blow the fuse in just a couple of seconds. I found it was a wire going to the headlights and the covering was worn through up near the front which was hard to find till I moved the wire and saw bare wire. Once the wire was fixed all was good in the neighborhood.

Thanks guys,

Lights, hood, side panels all removed and disconnected wire light at ignition switch.

removed oil sensor wire and pulled it off the engine and it looked ok but I left it out of the way

Ran the engine with the 3 engine wires disconnected at the plug, ran fine, fuse was fine.
plugged the molded connecter in and fuse popped so it seems it has to be one or both of the 2 remaining engine wires(white coil wire, Alternator wire.

In thinking about this the oil sensor is probably not the problem because all it does is turn on a light on the dash. The white wire also should not be the problem because it is only to shut the engine off and it is not powered. So the only thing left is the wire that comes from the voltage reg. See what happens if you isolate that. You should be able to unplug the regulator.Hang in there sooner or later we will get it sorted out, may burn up a couple thousand fuses but we will figure it out.

and we have a winner!

unplugged the regulator (3 wire plug under carb) and it started and ran with fuse intact. PTO switch also worked. PTO did not work when Reg was plugged in.

So now what do I replace? the Regulator? Why do I need it? Does it charge the battery?

looks like part # KH-25-755-03

Will I need to slide engine forward to get to it? Cause if so I may as well do the Coil since a new one came with it.

Thanks again all-

OK now we need to find out if it is the regulator or the stator behind the flywheel. For that I will defer to others that know more than I do. Try Dr. Roland. and see what he has to say. At least we have the problem isolated. Send the Dr a PM.

There is an easy test for the three-prong VR on these Mags. I think it's something like 28 VAC out of the two outer prongs and 14ish VDC off the middle, but check/search the forum Tech section or wait for others to chime in. The stators RARELY go bad on just about anything (Kohler, B&S, etc...) IMHO, but a bare wire coming up throught the tins on the Mag 20 could very well be the culprit. If you see it heading that way, it's a great time to pull the engine and remove all the tins and give it a good cleaning/going over. Plus that's about the only way you'll be able to replace the stator if you actually have to. Bad regulator is much more common, but generally does not lend to blowing fuses in my experience. I would buy a used regulator and let it eat, or a used stator in good condition with a good harness and not think about it again. Both readily available through site suppliers or ePay.

Process of elmination, and you'll have a good smooth running Mag in that 2082 in short order.

Quick update-

With engine off and with VR unplugged checked for continuity to ground at the plug and the 2 outer white wires were connected and the middle B+ wire did not.

none of the 3 prongs on the VR itself were grounded.

that must be correct for the off position because I crossed it with my wll running 1872 and the Whites wires were connected to grnd on that also, it uses the same VR, coil ect as the 2082.

Tom -where would I take those voltage readings? because I assume the engine would have to running and the VR hooked up. I guess I could get to the B+ at the plug leaving the engine by the heat shield but what about the 2 outer white AC wires. - just checking.

thanks all-

Thanks for the update! :beerchug:

With engine running WOT, the B+ from middle VR prong only read .5 VDC

Measured 33 VAC across 2 Stator leads at WOT which looks like a decent number.

weird thing is those same stator leads have connection to ground when engine is off.

so those 2 things don't seem to add up-

getting there slowly-

Keep up the good work you'll get it. I'm not very good with the stuff that shocks ya. I just beg Adam to come over and figure it out for me.:biggrin2:

Thanks Duke,

Yes the wiring issues are a beast!

I have a new VR on order so I'll update after that.

Cyclops Supers are nice but ALL THAT WIRE! argh! Some PO put about a mile of electrical tape on the wire bundles so I've been taking that off to get a good look at things.

Noticed a few bare wire spots on the Red/White circuit that carries the B+ everywhere.

Take care-

Is the one from McLouth?