1450 Stripped Spark Plug, Help!
 

While in the middle of dragging my yard for new grass the spark plug some how wiggled loose and popped out of my 1450. The old plug won't thread back in and also tried a new one that won't even get started. I believe that when the plug fell out the compression pushed it all the way and it took a small part of the threads with it, which is what is preventing me from threading either plug back in. Any ideas of how to fix this without taking off the head and re-tapping from the piston side? The threads below the top one look ok, but the first one is definately "shiny" as if some metal has been removed.

ooooh.... well, you may not be able to. They make a spark plug hole tap. You can usually get them at an auto parts store. I know Napa can get them, or keeps them. Put grease on the end of the tap when you start it in, that will keep the shavings from falling in the engine. MAKE SURE THE PISTON IS AT TDC! Pull the tap out often and clean/install new grease. If the threads don't clean up.... Two choices. Another head, or you can try a spark plug heli-coil. I have used these before, and the worked.... for a while. The safest way to repair this is to pull the head. I think most here would agree that it isn't that hard to pull off, and could save you $$$. IMHO.

Jonathan is nuts on. Best bet would be to take the head off, it's not to bad, plus you can clean up the carbon while you're at it.
Good luck:beerchug:

if it was my tractor I would pull the head for 10.00 to 20.00 get another head best fix

He asked if you could do it without pulling the head.... You can. I've done it this way several times. Not the best choice I agree.

I would get the correct spark plug tap and fill the flutes with grease and chase the spark plug hole. The grease keeps the chips from falling into the combustion chamber. Good luck.

Thanks for the good advice. Is TDC when the piston is all the way up? How do I know when that is?

I tried to chase the threads from the top, but it didn't seem to bite in and cut through the first thread, only digging further in and possibly shaving away at the tool too. I am going to pull the head off and chase it from the bottom.

Thanks!

If it effecting the tool, there may be a helicoil in there already.

The aluminum material of the head should not be able to effect the steel tool!! :bigthink:

I'd probably just pull the head and find a replacement. Lots of used heads in good shape. Pretty easy to take the head off and replace. Check with one of the sponsors.

I don't think it is a heli-coil but it may be a Time Sert. can the time serts be redone? I may just look to go with a new/used head to be safe.

What is TDC for the piston and how do you know when it is there?

I'm looking to get this thing up and running in short order since this week is expecting rain and I only have a little more work to do before I can plant grass so that's why I am looking at the quick options.

TDC is when the piston is at Top Dead Center. If you are going to pull the head, it doesn't matter. I just suggested that for trying to tap the hole. It's just the way I do it. For future reference: You can use the timing marks, or just put your finger over the plug hole and roll the motor by hand. When it stops pushing air past your finger, its at TDC.

I tried to chase the threads from the bottom and the tool won't even get started so I guess I will be looking for a new head.

Is there anything to be concerned with this one, it says it's for "pulling":

http://www.ebay.com/itm/IH-CUB-CADET...61011798755%26

I will check sponsors on the site too if they have any available.

You won't need a puller's head to mow your yard. Stick with original Kohler parts. use PBblaster on your bolts to help free them up. When you decarbonize, I use Super Kleen from Wal-Mart....but use rubber gloves &protective eyewear! Purchase new head bolts...just in case the current ones have been compromised any. Buy a new Kohler head gasket...don't try to save $ on that...quality matters on that part! After decarbonizing & replacing head gasket, hand tighten bolts in head in the correct order(see the technical section fof our forum for the complete Kohler manual). Then torque bolts in correct order to manufacturer specs( in the manual as well). After ten hours of run time....re-torque in the correct order and according to specs.

I like to put a drop of oil on my new bolts as I replace each one to assist them and whenever I decarbonize, I immediately follow through with an oil change!

Probably something I missed, so please chime in if I overlooked something. Everyone is very helpful on this site, so we will guide you through this process and answer as many questions as we are able.

Best wishes, Cub Cadet 123

QUOTE=new2tractor;194801]I tried to chase the threads from the bottom and the tool won't even get started so I guess I will be looking for a new head.

Is there anything to be concerned with this one, it says it's for "pulling":

http://www.ebay.com/itm/IH-CUB-CADET...61011798755%26

I will check sponsors on the site too if they have any available.[/QUOTE]

CAUTION-BE CAREFUL FROM THAT SELLER ON E-Bay.....I have not had good luck with him and I would not recommend a purchase from him! Stick with our sponsors if you can.


Cub Cadet 123

Since I have access to free services at a top notch machine/fab shop, I ended up having a sleeve welded into the head and now it looks like brand new.

Now I am working on de-carbonizing the head and am not sure how far I need to go with removing the material. Do I need to clean up everything including the top of the piston and valves? Also, there is a fair amount of light tan colored material that has built up, but not a ton of black like the pictures look in the technical forum. Is that normal or do i have an issue that needs to be dealt with?

It sounds normal. Snap a pic, let us see.....:bigthink:

I got everything back together and she is running like a champ again, perhaps even a little better now that the carb is tight and the carbon has been cleaned out.

Do the head bolts really need to be torqued after 10 hours of runtime? I can do it no problem, but it takes a little while to tear everything off just to get to the bolts to tighten them again.

My next project will be to install the hydro fan that is missing off the drive shaft before it gets too warm...

Glad your cub is running better!

Could I get a picture of this work? I was still wondering why you would want the piston at top d c when trying to chase out the threads. Seems like you would want the piston farthest away?

Well, anyways glad to read you have a successful repair! I love it when a good plan comes together!:pepsichug:

If any metal shavings fall into the cylinder and the piston is at TDC, you can see them, and you have a chance to get them out before they cause damage. If the piston is all the way down, you would never know they were in there.

Thanks J-Mech!