Comments?
 

:biggrin2:

This was my worn trunion fix.

This picture is for illustration only. This trunion isn't worn by the springs. The one in my tractor was really loose and the thing was a handful in tight spots. It's as responsive as can be now.

I decided it was too much trouble to pull the rear end out of the tractor and fix it.

I like the creativity but since you've got it that far apart, why not have it fixed properly? More (closer) pics!! :biggrin2:

Edit: I don't see little groves worn, guessing you'd just need new springs? Suppose I'm lost on this one.

No reason to be lost. Just re-read my post above and it takes care of your concerns.


"This picture is for illustration only. This trunion isn't worn by the springs. The one in my tractor was really loose and the thing was a handful in tight spots. It's as responsive as can be now.

I decided it was too much trouble to pull the rear end out of the tractor and fix it."

I suppose as a quick fix just to make it by till it can be repaired properly its not a bad idea. Good thinking too. I might do this to my 1450 until I can get my hands on the right part

If you try it, use new, soft 1/4" gas line or you might wind up with a jerky hydro. You might anyway but it's worth two inches of gas hose and a couple of tie straps to find out.

Let us know how it works. I'm still not sold on the springs. The JD's don't have them and they use the same hydro. Go figure. :bigthink:

Ya know... I have been wanting to say that FOREVER! I just didn't want to start a riot. I'm not sold on them either. That same hydo in every other application I have ever saw it, didn't have the springs. I seriously think IH did that to make the handle "feel" better in your hand. Mine are getting worn out, and I was planning on making it solid...... If I can ever get around to fixing ANYTHING of mine.... :bash2::bash2:

Oh, and I think this repair if fine. I'm not sure how long the hose will last, but you may be on to something here.....

So how do the Deeres deal with the issue?

What issue? There is none. They don't have a spring. It's just solid linkage.

Maybe twenty years ago, I had a 1450 that had the linkage/trunion/springs worn like many others. Instead of using hose like I did in this instance, I think I wound a bolt in each end instead of using rubber hose. However I did it, I made the linkage solid. The result was the tractor's response to speed control lever movement was harsh and jerky.

This isn't the case with using the hoses to cushion the action a little. Like I said above, the tractor is more responsive to the speed control lever but is not rough or objectionable and every bit of lever movement results in increase/decrease of speed or direction.

Just thought a few of you might be interested in it.

I don't mean to sound to dumb about this post , but how about getting some more info and maybe even some pics to understand what JD does to their hydro linkage ?????

I have no idea how JD hydro linkage is set up , but all i can envision is the exact setup that Cub has minus the springs and solid linkage somewhere ?? Solid linkage in place of the springs ???

My hydro works fine after replacing/shimming the linkage , but if there is a cheaper/easier fix , i am all ears.


I am curious about what the fuel line is supposed to be doing. Is it taking up space in the plate to make the hydro react faster , or just cushioning the big plate when it moves ??? Or both ??

Thanks !!!!!!!!

Both. It also stops it from floating back/forth which causes speed variations.

Guess I worded that wrong, I was thinking along the lines of what Darrell said. Can we get some pics to see what JD does that CC didn't? I did a quick google search but I only have a few minutes before I leave for work and I didn't come up with anything.

I have an interest in this post also. My 2084 has always needed my hand to be on or near the speed control lever as it speeds up or slows down as I mow. The mechanism does not appear to be worn. Our 2072 does not do that but is very responsive to speed lever input. Maybe like me my 2084 spring is tired.

Paul something i noticed on my 1782 was that in the plate that the linkage attaches to. Has two hole so i swapped them... one was closer to the pivot point which made the plates move more quickly. Driving wise it made it go faster as the throw was further and was a little more touchy. I say this if you can live with a little less speed it might make it gentler as my springs and all were in great shape.

Here is a Sunstrand off some models of JD.

thanks for sharing this potential "fix" to a sloppy hydro. My 1450 maintains speed up and down hill much better than my 1650. But I can't really see any difference in the trunnion situation between the two-unless it's just weak springs on the the 1650. I think I'll try this on the 1650 and see what it does. I was thinking about shimming the springs to tighten them up, or just replacing them.

I think it's a stretch to call it a "fix" but for no more effort than it takes, may be worth your time.

I have a Ransomes (Jacobson owns them now) "golf course" mower, 72" deck, 3cyl diesel. The hydro is foot operated, but uses the same Sunstrand unit. This is the lever that is connected to the swashplate directly. I have the hydro tore down for repair, it actually sheared the roll pin INSIDE the unit on the swashplate shaft. This may also be a reason IH used the springs. But, this unit has 2187hrs on it, so I think the longevity is there.....

Attachment 40461

Now, operating the hydro with your foot is a little different. But, this unit will creep just like our cubs, and worked all around very well without any cushion on the swashplate. It could be a little jerky, but that may have been due to the internal problems it had. If I ever get time to put the stupid thing back together, I'll let you know if the "jerk" is gone with the new pins.

everyone with a hydro should buy NEW springs at the very least they are like $12 for the pair from a multitude of suppliers. your hydro can be responsive if renewed correctly. those parts have a lot of hours on them.

Other than JD was the Sundstrand hydro used on other garden tractors? It would be interesting to look at how different manufacturers designed the linkage. I wonder if the JD linkage is more trouble free?

Did a little looking around. Simplicity uses the Sundstrand. In some cases they have a cable type linkage. I just did the trunnion rebuild on my 782 so I don't have to worry about it but it's interesting to see how different manufacturers address the same problem.

Food for thought: start with best... Improve it's weakness with strength of others ( manufacturing & engineering) & add in a hole lot of back woods "git-r-done "know how , what do you get??????:bigthink:

Just for listing purposes, I know that Cub Cadet, John Deere, Simplicity and Ransomes/Jacobsen for sure used this Sunstrand Hydro. We know how the Cubs look, and now have a pic of the Deere and Ransomes linkages.

I'm not disagreeing with this. It's the fact that if the swashplate outside linkage is worn on the pivot shaft, those parts are becoming expensive and obsolete. Yes, they can be repaired, and the springs are cheap. But the springs are just part of the problem. It's obvious that other manufacturers made different styles of linkages and I think it only smart to look at those options as a viable fix as parts for the Cubs become harder and harder, and more expensive, to find. Not everyone is able to repair their linkage and something simple to make, or parts off "other" machines that may work, IMHO, should be considered. Purists and collectors won't do this, and if I had a machine that I wanted "original" I wouldn't/ won't either. But, to some, this information is important. Remember after all, that's what this site is about! Keeping the older machines running! Even if it's not what you would do, there is nothing wrong with other styles of linkages. I'm done preaching now. :beerchug:

I was just going over some old threads and saw this.

It's almost two years later and the hoses tie wrapped on each end of the springs are still doing their job.

Thanks for the long term test update. I may just give that a shot on my 149.

:bash2::bash2:


Or anything of mine. :biggrin2::biggrin2:

Tim

You will grow old waiting for J-Mech to Git Er Done. Just busting. :biggrin2::biggrin2:

What is the splined shaft coming out the back for?

That's the part that goes into the rear end to make it move.

Since I am here, seven years later, I can report the same rubber hoses are in place on my 1864 and still working well. I haven't touched them or the chicken bands that hold them on.

It's hard for me to tell by the pic you posted, but what are the cable ties for? I'm really tempted to try this.

To keep the hoses from falling out.

Like I said in that post. This is picture is only for illustration purposes. The cable ties aren't pulled tight so I can undo them. That hydro is not in my tractor.

Hey now, this is a family friendly site!:biggrin2:

I know this is an old thread. But John Deere uses a shock absorber instead of springs found on Cubs. If the linkage or the shock gets worn they suffer the same odd behavior as the Cubs. And just to note they think a lot of that little shock absorber.
John Deere Hydrostatic Control Absorber - AM35220 $110.72

I have followed this thread for some time and just had to add to it. Sometime back I noticed that when I was mowing and shifted to reverse the tractor would pause then jerk into gear. Running at low rpms the jerking was not noticeable. The trunion slot looks like new but the pin that slides in the slot had some extra clearance from wear that I thought was a bit excessive. I tried to find the spring rate specs on the springs, but the info is unavailable. Then I thought about this thread. I was able to get the fix on the reverse end without removing the fenders. I couldn't believe the difference it made, no jerk at all. The next time I remove the fenders I'll replace the spring with a stiffer inner spring for a permanent fix.
Guys were wondering how a JD solved the problem so I copied this page from their service manual. I appears to be a solid connection with the shock absorber limiting the speed the lever can be moved.