Synthetic oil ?
 

Synthetic oil in cubs? Why not?

I'm thinking of switching over?

I've been a AVID user of synthetic oil in my cars for over 20 years. Amsoil is my choice & have had great results with it. Since they were the first in synthetic oil with qualities that surpass other brands. A proven fact by independent lab results.

Many new car manufactures are slowly switching over & warranty is VOID if synthetic is NOT used! Like a corvette being one of them.

After much research I've found that the military is switching over also. Like synthetic oil & lube for their firearms. I do ALOT of reloading & shooting. Started using synthetic oil for my firearms for over 5 years with great results. A few of my friends have since done the same for their firearms also.

Soooooooooooooo, with that said do YOU have comments as to why I shouldn't switch over to synthetic for my cubs?

YOUR THOUGHTS?

NIK,

Old school thought; :bash2:

" hey, I change my oil every 2,000 miles."
" nope, can't beat regular oil."
"What? Oil at $5.00 a quart? It's a suckers gimmick. "
Blah, blah, blah,:BlahBlah::BlahBlah:
The pros & cons go on. & on most with-out proven fact just refusing to change.

And the war is on.....Oh I mean debate.:biggrin2:

oil
 

Well i'll begin, I picked a 97 sears with a vert mag 18.5 off the first owner with low hours. I switched it to mobile 1. That oil would never get hot like dino oil, i thought that was great. I wasn't worried about stirring up leaks or burning oil in that engine. I can't get myself to (won't) do that to any k motors or my good running horiz mag 18 with unknown hours. Mike

:ExtremeFunny:

I tried synthetic oil, :bigthink:

The engine ran so cool, I was afraid the low temp of the engine would not drive off the moisture inside of the engine.

Doesn't the engine have to get hot to boil away the condensation?

The reduced engine friction of synthetic allows the engine to make more HP. The extra HP may be hard on mower belts. I do not want to prematurely wear out V-belts.

The synthetic oil makes the machine more efficient, reducing "seat time".

:Forgot:


:ScrewLoose: :biggrin2:

Now to my real answer, I use synthetic in the cars.

I do not use synthetic in the machines without an oil filter, because I change it at 10 to 15 hours of operation.

I tried it, but, saw no benefit when changed so frequently. I do not push my machines hard enough to get the benefit.

I do use synthetic grease in mower spindles.

I switched to synthetic gear oil in one truck, the rear end became quieter. :bigeyes:

After researching for the last 2 hours:BangPC: Im going for it.:bigthink:

Been using synthetic for my cars for sooooooo many years with great results I cant help but think it will help my 2 kohlers? if NOT you guys will be the 1st. to know.:bigeyes: All at my expense.

like I wrote Ive been at it for over 2hrs. & reasearched to many good things about it. Here is a product description of the oil. Copy & pasted;

http://www.tsadvancedsynthetics.com/...-4-stroke.html

If I notice more HP., then ill just cut back on my throttle,

I might even get ambitious & take a video of my adventure?:biggrin2:

Nik,
Oh,
When I had my boat it had a 115merc., & a 20hp., kicker. both used synthetic oil additive for the gas & NEVER SMOKED like regular marine engines.

Here we go again.

Good luck with your test.

Yep, have at it kids. BTDT. :biggrin2:

The comment about the increased HP wearing out belts does not seem to make sense to me. With engines set at a certain rpm at WOT belt wear would be the same if the engine were a 10, 12, 14 or whatever hp.

....... he was kidding

For what it's worth. I have found that the best thing to run in an engine, is ..... OIL! I have seen far more engines fail without oil, than motors that had it.

Sorry, couldn't help myself. :beer2:

This discussion has been done so many times, I figured I better get those HP points in early!! :biggrin2:

Anyway, J-Mech made my end point. Oil is more important than no oil.

Clean oil is more important than dirty oil.

10 hour changes are better than 25 hour changes.

I wore out a brand new K321 long block in 5 mowing seasons doing 25 hour oil changes. I had an hour meter.

I have never damaged an engine in 10 hour oil changes.

Any clean oil, over any dirty oil.

After that, synthetic is better than dino.

It is just that at 10 hour oil changes, synthetic does not really show much benefit, when considering the extra cost.

If I were mowing professionally, I would;
1) use synthetic,
2) change at recommended intervals,
3) replace the machines every 5 years.

To a professional, time is money, to me, machine longevity trumps my time. :bigthink:

I realize now that was a tongue in cheek comment. I would also add that topping the oil in an engine that may use a little is important because even a few ounces of oil is a significant percentage of the total amount in all small engines. My motto is "keep it full fool". All stuff eventually wears out but I do not want mine to be attributed to lack of lubrication whether it be oil or grease.

I guess it comes down to personal preference. All I can say is do a little research and see what fits your needs the best. I myself when I am breaking in a kohler engine I use Brad Penn 30w break in oil with a high zinc content for 10 hrs then I switch to 30w Mobil 1 for summer and 10w-30w Mobil 1 for winter use. I don't have a heated garage in the winter. Probably most people use dino oil with no issues what so ever and it is quite a bit easier on the wallet. 6 to 1 half a dozen the other.

I use what is recommended by International Harvester in my IH Cub Cadets. Synthetic is no less expensive than motor oil. My 1982 Ford F-100 300-6 has been using regular motor oil for 32 years now. So how can synthetic oil be any better???????????????????????????????????????????? ?????????????

Seriously. Chances are, this truck will out last, and is better built than the crazy car and truck prices you pay today that don't last to begin with. Yes, my truck is old, but were all still here! My IH Cub Cadets have been doing just fine as well with regular oil.

This is like the madness of the "green" cars. By the time you pay for a "green" car, the high price totally off-sets what you would spend using regular fuel in a Chevy Caviler that only cost about 10k new. Fact.

That engine in your F-100 may be the best engine ever made by any auto manufacture ever.

I have to agree! The first in-line I ever had. Its backed up by a Warn 4-speed.

Since we're on the topic of synthetic motor oils, and conventional motor oil, I happened to notice the flyer from Advanced Auto. You can buy a 5qt. container jug of Valvoline Next Gen motor oil which is 50% recycled oil and a Drive Works oil filter for 21.99 . OR, Non-recycled conventional Valvoline with same oil filter for the same price.

Now, why would I want 50% recycled oil for a price of premium conventional new motor oil? Here are a few price listings on the synthetic oils:

5qts. Quaker State Full Synthetic with Pure One oil filter for 24.99 .

Mobil 1 synthetic 5qts with Mobil 1 oil filter 32.99

Mobil 1 synthetic 5qts Extended Performance w/ Mobil filter 35.99 .

Valvoline Next Gen Synthetic Blend 5qts w/ Purolator filter 23.99

Valvoline SNY Power 5qts w/ K&N filter 29.99 .

Offers valid Aug.29 - Oct. 2 2013 .

My truck requires 6 quarts to full mark on dip stick, and to carry one in the vehicle at all times is 7 quarts. The really sock the price to you on the extra 2 needed quarts, I'm better off to buy two 5qt jugs! :BlahBlah:

:biggrin2:

Mmmmmmmm?

Amsoil is 100% synthetic, & about $ 10.50 a quart. Gulp !:bigeyes:

Well that's about what I pay.

Nik,

If you can get in good with a amsoil dealer and get it at cost (not gonna say what that is) insted of 10+ bucks a quart its a good deal. I run amsoil in my truck the ol ladys car. But I did learn the cleaning abilitys of it as at first I had leaks where I didn't kno leaks could be. But now that I've got new seals in just about everything I'm loving the stuff

Holy Mother of God? I'm gonna do-it!

You guyz will be the 1st. to know if my engine BLOWS-UP-:Explode:

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...ps8d73832e.jpg

Nik,:biggrin2:

Synthetic oil?
 

I've been running synthetic oil in my 71 for four years and cannot tell the difference. That being said, if synthetic had better temp control, lower friction and longer life, why not? I've used Mobil 1 and Royal Purple and both worked fine. Plus, I like the more consistent viscosity of synthetic, especially in winter.

I have heard good things about Royal Purple, and a good synthetic engine oil. My comments were never meant to start a debate which no one has, just my opinion that I'm too "traditional", !

Maybe I should give it a try some time to see how fast my smoker Kohler can blacken the synthetic oil.

:biggrin2: