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Not sure if this is right place, but here's my problem I am trying to make a electric lift from a green tractor work on my 129, I have used a wiring diagram , after buying the right switch and the other parts , I still can't make it work.
Or maybe I need to ask this question on the green forum
thanks Lawman

Lets start with some pix and more information on the lift, tractor ect. :biggrin2:

not sure how to post pics, the lift came from a JD 112, used all new new electral parts, and wired like wireing diagram showed, still not working may have to go back to manuel lift
lawman

What wiring diagram did you use?

Hang on there lawman. If you are having difficulty making something work, then I have a lot of confidence in the knowledge and expertise of the people in this forum. They will help you and give you great advice to get you going--possibly saving you a lot of $$ along the way in the form of labor and your smart purchases of quality parts and where to get them.

Here is one way to post a pic: Save it to a file on your computer first. In your post/thread here, click on the paper clip symbol up at the top of the toolbar of your thread. Select the "browse" feature and select your file that contains the picture. Then click "Ok" at the bottom of that option menu. You can click to preview your post to make sure that it is included in your post. We'll take it from there....

Looking forward to seeing your pics!

Cub Cadet 123

Thank you Cub Cadet 123, I can never seem to explain that to people the right way, lol.

And lawman, Cub Cadet 123 is right Someone here will get you on the right track. Don't give up. We got your back...:biggrin2:

You're welcome.....Anytime Nightow1!

Wow-didn't know you could reply that fast!!! Good thing this isn't the wild west and we aren't facing each other at high noon.....I'd be a goner!!!

Cub Cadet 123

Is this the wiring Diagram you used?

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/mo...ctric_lift.jpg

that is the one I used
lawman

One solenoid may be bad , I used one new one and an old one
lawman

Just curious did you test the lift before installing it?
If you didn't just run the + &- to a 12V battery and see if it works.

If it dose. Try this with the actuator connected: Check for plus or minus 12 volts between the connectors going to the actuator when you move the lever. Assuming you do NOT have 12v there, move one meter probe to the (-) battery terminal (at the battery) and see if you get +12v in either direction. Then do the same with the lead connected to the (+) battery terminal.

I suspect in one of these tests you will not have voltage, and that will tell you what circuit in failing. Then you'll have to analyze the wiring schematic to determine where to probe for voltage.

bad solenoid would do it.:biggrin2:

What a mess. Just get a 30 amp Reversing switch from northern tool. Its $ 12. No relays or solenoids. All you do is hook two wires from battery to switch and 2 wires from switch to actuator.

it worked before by hot wireing to the two wires hooked up one way then reversing the hot and ground to make it go the other way, will try again tomorrow if I don't have any luck, will be back tomorrow nite

How about this....a whole bunch simplier

You should of found a hydro set up from a cub. Much stronger then a electric lift. But good luck with your project.

X2. Over simplifying is shear greatness! :biggrin2:

In most cases yes, but I think his problem is just something simple. Take a break, go back through it and I bet the problem will present itself. :beatdeadhorse:
mmzullo Is right I would of found a cub hydro set up.

In this case too, why screw with a bunch of relays/ solenoids not to mention connections that can vibrate loose and or corrode. For one, those relay coils draw power and puts a lil more load on the electrical system. not only that the contacts in the relays can get pitted causing a slight drop in voltage, in turn creating elevated ampdraw resulting in more heat in the motor. Whats the number one enemy of ANY electric device? HEAT!! Now this may be an extreme case, but holy crap. A simple DPDT OR reversing switch would make alot of head ache go away! Just my $.02

My sources: a degree in HVAC/R which involved lots of electrical theory
over 5 years of field experience.
Many continued education classes

But it was designed to work just fine the way manufacture made it. his problem isn't anything as far as to much draw or heat it's just a bad connection. or bad solenoid. Simple fix once found and it's working without adding anything new or making a hole for another switch.
But that being said. JMHO
Whatever makes it work in the end that's the objective here for him.

Remember lawman Take what you want from us and do what ever you feel comfortable with, and go with it. Good luck, keep us posted.

would replace the current switch... no new holes! I didnt diagnose his problem. I stated how less is more. simply put!

I replaced the old solenoid with a new one, it is still not working only have hot to one side of the switch, the side where the hot wire attaches, the other side of the switch where the ground terminal is I don't have fire, I may go the other route with the other style switch and see if I can make that work, thanks for all the help

Go back to post #15 and read it. If it doesn't work that way something else is wrong. :bash2:

Going to try the advice of R. Bedell, it looks a lot simpler. I thought there would have to be a better way to make it work

Tried the simple wiring diagram and switch, worked great. I wished I had done that before I spent money on all of the other stuff.

When it comes to electrical stuff Dr. Roland is hard to beat. He has bailed me out more times than I care to admit. Glad to hear you Got Er Done. :beerchug:

Glad to hear you got it working!

Great news! Glad you got it!