snow plow lift rod ????
 

Can someone give me the dimesions on the lift rod for a snow plow that fits my 149? I have the blade but it is missing the lift rod. We are expecting several inches of snow tomorrow and I would like to try it out. I can make one but it would be easier if I had something to go by instead of re-inventing the wheel. Or atleast get something made that would last one snow.

Thanks
Chip

For a temp fix,you could also use a piece of chain to lift it. It will be a pain to use all the time,but will get you through in a pinch. It wont be that tough to figure out the dimension as you can measure the size of the hole in the plow bracket and the measure the distance between holse in the lift arm and plow.



Edit... I just went out and measured mine on my 1200 (same one) it measures 5/8 diameter and 29 1/2 center to center of the holes...

The rod is made from 1/2" stock, you should drive the front wheels of your tractor onto 2X lumber (laying flat) put the lift all the way down and let the blade rest on the floor, measure the distance between the rod holes. Then bend yourself a new rod and drill it for pins.

That's about the quickest easiest way to get it done.

I think Roland had a nice write-up about it with pictures, but I can't find it.

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w...ftRodSetup.jpg

That's right. When I bought my plow a couple months ago I had to drill the lift arm to make my lift rod work. The guy I bought mine from said it was an upgraded rod. Was there such a thing from IH??

Big:

:biggrin2.gif:..... I don't think so.

According to the CPE Parts Manual, the Lift Rods were:
* 464 387 R1 for CCO
* 473 924 R1 for NFs
* 548 589 R1 for WFs
* 140 090 C1 for 82 Series

Thanks, that is exactly what I needed. I hope to have time tomorrow to work on it. It's in kinda tough shape, been sitting out a long time. Also will have to convert some tire chains I have to fit my tires. I'm feeling industrious tonight but we will see how far it goes tomorrow. First day off in a while!

Thank you to whomever inserted the pic into my earlier post.

When I bought the plow a couple months ago,I didn't know enough about Cubs to be able to disagree with him,but since then I have been doing a lot of reading and homework and have learned alot.Thanks to this site and the people as well as digging into them. I never thought I would get a tractor in 100's of pieces and put it all back together,but I actually enjoy it and like to see the finished product like the 800 I am doing now...

Thanks for the help, I got a piece of 1/2" rod and made on up today. I had to take the plow apart, it was frozen with rust. It is now working as it should. I even scraped a half inch of snow just to see how it works. Man, that is a blast. I've never used a plow before and now I see what all the fuss is about. We are expecting 8-12 inches tonight whhich is a treat for us in the foothills of NC. We usually see around 4 inches on average.
Well now that I have this fixed I have another question. The pin on the blade that allows the blade to trip with the springs, should I leave it on the pin to hold the blade tight or leave it off to let the blade trip. I am scraping concrete and pavement.

Here are some pictures. It's ugly but it works! The close up picture where the lift arm mounts to the plow, should I have a plate to hold the arm tight in that slot or is it ok to let it slide in it?

I think you want the rod to float in the slot so you can follow uneven terrain. Also, if you're pushing snow, I'd let the spring trip actuate. You never know what's under the snow, and you might damage your tractor on what you hit at high speed. If you're pushing dirt, then you probably want to pin it in place, and go a lot slower.
Good work on the lift rod! It don't look ugly to me!

Below is a pic of what that part is supposed to look like. I have not used this bracket on any of mine. It seemed too sloppy and I use the other style that just has a hole and not a slot. I figured with the plate bolted in it would be solid and with it removed it would float. Don't know. These Cubs are fairly new to me too.

I ended up with a bunch of parts from a guy recently and the slotted mount also came with a larger diameter ( 5/8'' ) lift rod. I am thinking these are for the supers and not the wide frames. Maybe someone will chime in on that?

Almost forgot...good work on the lift rod.

Some day you'll push to hard into a bank of snow and your plow will push up to far and you'll see why I use chain on mine. If you hit it hard enough that rod will bend real quick, and they are a pain to straighten. That being said you did a great job making your's. Have fun plowing with it. Post some picts. when you get it out in the snow.

That's what I have on my plow It's 5/8 and alot sturdier than the one on Dustin's 149...

I can surely see that it would be. The 5/8'' rod I have also has a bend in it and isn't straight like the 1/2'' one. I can't use the 5/8'' rod with the combo I have for the mount , rod , and undercarriage though. The rod is too long and I can't raise the plow up enough to back out of a snow pile. When I do end up bending the 1/2'' rods they will be upgraded to 5/8'' and I will just drill out the holes so the bigger rod fits.

I am with JUNIORS1282 ,I use chain on mine also. I find it easier to pile the snow up that way.

You guys that are using chain, be careful not to let this blade swing up and hit the grille casting. This is a serious disadvantage with the use of a chain. If you have the room, it'd probably make more sense to push the snow further back instead of piling it all vertically.

I've been using this plow since it was new in 1978. It still has the orginal lift rod on it.
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/snow0811.jpg
I don't see a need for a chain on it. I've been able to pile snow 3 feet high. This blade has been used to push snow, stone and dirt. You have to use common sense when using a blade......wide open-fast as the tractor can go (better known as raming speed) is not using common sense.

Well around here we average about 150 inches of snow a year. so 3 foot piles just are not big enough sometimes. I have had snow piles that I know were honestly around 5-6 feet high. I just keep pushing it up again and again,after 4-5 times it is just like a ramp,then I can can push it even higher.

As for hiting the grill I have never had that problem. And I don't plow at ramming speed either. Most of the time I am just off idle,and never more than half throttle.

The rods are great if you are plowing a nice flat paved/cement driveway. But if you have a drive that has dips and is not flat a chain is better. This is especially true if you have a hydro lift,as it will not float like the manual lift. The slot on the lift arm doese not give me enough play or float action for my plowing needs,so I use a chain.

I plow with my 169 with a blade but I MOVE the snow with my 1882 with FEL.

As far as I know the hydro lift (on x82) doese not allow a true float position. A true float would allow the lift to travel through the full range of the the lift mechanism. I could be wrong on this,but if they have a float position, then why do they have a slot in the lift bracket?

Please explain if I am not understanding something here.

It DOES have a float, as Bill mentioned in his post. The slot actually isn't really used...both 82 series blades I've had use another piece that bolts onto the bracket and converts that slot into a round hole. You could use it to get a bit more float out of the blade to pile stuff higher if that's what you need to do.

Dont get me wrong I am not trying to argue.But in this diagram, if either part 1 or part 3 is pinned to part 2 ,how can there be a float action? All I see is a slot that is in part 5, but that would not allow it to float,that is just built in slop in my opinion.

1 is pinned to 2. 3 rotates freely on 2 unless the float lockout bolt is installed to connect 1 to 2. Details on the float lockout should be in your service manual if not your owner's manual. That slotted thing isn't drawn properly and has nothing do do with the float, it's just how the cylinder is connect to the rockshaft. So once again, the 82 series rockshaft has float in it, as do all of the other hydraulic lift CC rockshafts. I'm guessing you've never had the rockshaft out of your tractor or studied it closely before. Start your tractor and run the lift all the way down, and notice how you can rotate the rockshaft through its full range of motion.

I guese I need to look at it the real thing closer. thanks for the explanation. would anyone happen to have a better picture of this?

I found out that the Snow thrower and Snow Blade lift rod is the same. Or at least close enough. I had a lift rod from a QA36, and when i got my blade I tried it out and it works. I do have a good bow in the lift rod, which I thought was a design intent until I tried pushing a good bank of snow and I could see the rod bending. I am missing the little float button on my 107, so for now when i get into a snow bank I keep the lift button depressed.

Excellent pictures with descriptions Bill !

Just wondering, the last picture is the same pretty much as my 982. I was looking at the picture and the white bar behind the lift cylinder.....is that running to a sleeve hitch on the back? If so, how is it attached - just a longer pin in the end of the lift cylinder? I have to complete my sleeve hitch on mine when it gets warmer and I was fortunate to get the flat bar to run to the back of the tractor from the PO. I haven't farted around with it yet so I am not sure if I am asking this question for nothing? He said the hole is drilled in the wrong spot on the bar he made, its out by about the width of the hole or so to be perfect so I know I will have a little bit of work to do on it. I just am unsure how it attaches to the cylinder properly? I have pretty much figured out that I can only run either the deck or the sleeve hitch at once and the other will need to be removed when not in use.... :bigthink:

This may be a dumb question to some but why would you need it in the locked position? Would it be for pushing dirt and keeping it level, or right where you want it?
What does the float lock out clip look like?

Yes, the lift bar attaches there. You'd simply remove the clevis pin that's visible in his picture and replace it with a longer one; it goes through the lift bar and then into the rockshaft.


edit:

Cub149-

If you are trying to scrape up dirt or gravel, you'd want it locked so it doesn't just jump over the stuff you're trying to scrape up.

Thank you for the pics. I actually had a little time away from my 15 month old girl last night,so I went and had a good look. Mine has the (lock out) bolt in it. Must have been in there from the PO. I now have allot better understanding of how it works. I was just going from the diagrams before.


Sorry for the arguement,I should have known better,and looked for myself.(insert foot to rearend).:bash2:

I am sure the lift rod will work allot better now with the lock bolt removed.

Here is what the lock out clip looks like on a Wide Frame and Quiet Line Cub:

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s.../lockout02.jpg
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s.../lockout01.jpg
Installed in lift system:
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...lockout04a.jpg
Lock Out removed:
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s.../lockout03.jpg
My lock out pin was made in my shop.

Why do you need a lockout pin?
The only time I need lock out pin is when I need down pressure on an attachment. The lock out pin is removed when I push snow.

Thanks Matt/Merk for Lesson 25 in this, clearly I missed the first 24!! I do enjoy the knowledge gained here while reading the things people have to say.

Thanks for the pics MERK, now I have to make something else that I didn't know I needed. I can't believe what all you can learn from starting a thread and watching where it will go. All I wanted to know where the dimensions of a lift rod, and I learned a lot more about that than I thought I would need to know. And now a new gadget that I didn't know existed and how to use it. Great info, thanks all.

I don't use the lockout pin when I move dirt and stone when using the front blade. The only time I do us the lockout pin is when I have the moldboard plow on. My sleeve hitch for my plow is set up to put down pressure on the plow.

What is the purpose of having the wheels on 2x4's? Would the same process be used for a snowthrower lift rod?

The reason is so that if you go over the top of a hill and the blade needs to drop below the front wheels, it can. I would do the same for a snowthrower.