Points Saver
 

I have a Cub Cadet 1200 with Kohler engine. I saw a post mentioning a points saver. Didn't know such a device existed. Will it work on mine? If so where can I get one?

Big Don

www.kirkengines.com has them. I've never used one, but heard good stuff about them. Will be watching your project, would like to see how it turns out, might do the same thing on a couple tractors.

Thanks Sawdustdad - will check it out.

Just to echo what has been said I have seen then but don't know a thing about em

Went to the web sight and read up on it. It makes sense, therefore I am going to try it. will let you know the results when I install it.
BigDon

I bought one of David Kirk first unit about ten years ago. I have used it on several tractors it is currently on a 149 working perfectly . I recommend them.
Dave R

Wow this guy makes some nice stuff!

Sorry for the ignorance but what exactly does this do and how does It work? I'm interested:bigthink:

:TTWWP:

We like pics,

Nik

Yeah, he's got some good stuff. But............................

Went to Amozon.com & bought the Blue Bosh Coil for about $ 20.00 LESS than what he was selling his for.:beerchug:

Nik,

How often do yo really replace points because they wore out? :bigthink:
It's not a lot of money granted, but I don't really think you gain much with it.

Yes I agree,but it does have a flashing light!!!

That is a cool feature! :bigeyes::biggrin2:

Most of the 'dedicated Pullers' all have them. They swear by them as a must have.

?,


NIK,

I've only ever replaced two sets of points on all the cubs I've bought/sold/owned. But you never really know when they will go bad so can't hurt to upgrade.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=25587

Post #6
Don is pretty big into pulling......

I installed mine awhile back & it's just chugging along just fine.:beerchug:

Little gizmos like the point saver makes logical sence? Yes vs. no? Can't hurt?

Back in (yikes) 1978 I added a electronic ignition on my 1970 Buick skylark. A box that was aprox., 6" x 6" x 2" that was supposed to do the same thing as the point saver in question. Even back then it did its job. So adding a point saver to dedicated points can't hurt?????:bigthink:

NIK,

If my memory serves me the condensor gets taken out of the equasion as well. I have a point saver setup in the basement and will be installing it on something in the spring as well as the bosch blue coil.

when I got my 128 the points were bad and no connection . I take a point file and rub or file some silver solder or silver , this coats the steel some ,then file the points and check with a ohm meter ,it has been firing up fine for 4-5 years now

The little flashing light on the points saver works really well timing your tractor , especially for us older guys that do not see as good as they used to , and can't crawl around their tractors like they used to do !!!!!!

I like mine a lot , especially when I bring home a new tractor. I mount it where I can see the light flash when I am timing it. For the most part , I am a one man show when I work on my tractors and every shortcut helps.

While we are on the subject of point savers and points. Does anyone ever check the push rod length for the points? I have a 149 that is a PITA to start in the winter. I have this problem every year. I modified the seat pan to fit a very small auto battery. I know its not a cranking problem. The points seem to pit every year. I put in new p/c in the summer. Also changes coils. And now the tractor wouldn't start. It has spark but weak. cleaned the points it finally started. I was thinking of going to the point saver and just have second thoughts.
But anyway back to the rod length for the points. Does anyone know the lenght of the rod? I know the early ones where aluminum and wore. Not sure about the steel ones. Mines 1.550 thou.

I suppose push rod length could be an issue, but seriously doubt it. Do this: Set the engine on the "S" mark, then loosen up the points and see if you can get a gap of at least .020. If you can, it's fine. .018 or under, I'd be looking for another one. My guess is I think you will find that you can get way over .020.


If you keep burning up points, and have starting issues, I'd be checking engine to frame grounding. Also, where are you getting the points and condenser? Coil? How old is the plug wire? Pitting on the points usually indicates a condenser problem. Is you condenser grounded good? Hooked to the negative side of the coil? Although it may help your point burnout issue, I don't think a point saver will fix your starting problem.

Another issue I have run into is the lobe that the point push rod rides on has had excessive wear and couldn't get the points to open far enough. So I put the old thinking cap on and designed a push rod with a wide base to bridge the worn area on the cam lobe. Only problem with that is it has to be installed from the inside which means the engine has to be torn down to remove the cam. Sure beat coming up with a good cam.

Capitol idea! If the engine is torn down anyway, why not?

Yosemite Sam I picked up an engine a few years ago for a song because the guy could never get it to run right. He had it rebuilt and still wouldn't run very well. I found the points had about a .005 gap so I thouhgt theres the problem. Gapped them to .020 and no spark. WTF So upon further investigation I realized the points were not shutting being set at .020. Lacked a few thou of closing. Tried a new plunger and same thing. Then I tore into it and realized the cam had serious wear on the lobe. That is were I came up with that idea. I made the new plunger out of tool steel and polished it real nice. Talk about a sweet running engine afterwards.

Great idea Kelly!:beerchug:

What Mike said! :beerchug:
(Sorry Nick :biggrin2:)

Oh boy...:biggrin2:

Nova vs. Pointsaver
 

Old thread but I have a question or two on this topic. I bought Kirk's point saver and am going through a few other things on my CC 123. While looking up some web info I came across the Nova II electronic ignition module...and am now confused. What's the diff between the two units, essentially? The 123 (1967 model) is magneto ignition, correct? If so, the Nova unit seems to be much more straightforward to install, and timing seems to be automatic - am I missing something? With the Nova, points are not even in circuit...?
:bigthink:

its battery ignition

When is the last time the spark plug wire change?
My 149 is a pain to start in the winter......engine cranks over too slow thanks to the hydro pump. I'm still running the same points I installed 10 years ago.

You mean my mower is? So, I'm incorrect? :bash2:

Yes, your 123 is battery ignition.

I'm not at all familiar with the "Nova II electronic ignition module" you speak of, I have heard of the Kirk point saver but don't own one.

I don't claim to be a big cheese when it comes to tuning an engine, but I rarely replace points. Once in awhile on a new to me machine, when they are badly pitted or burnt away.

My point is; I guess I just don't know what this point saver does. Out of all my Cubs (other than what I mentioned above) I have never replaced the points in any of them.

If I did replace all of my point-sets, condensers, plug wires, plugs and coils, would that make me run faster and jump higher?

I don't do points. :biggrin2:

Thanks for your insight. I have been attempting to find areas of the overall "system" to improve that would increase reliability and decrease any maintenance. Overall, my newer stuff in the last 10-15 years or so has really been very little hassle. I had thought the older K301s and such would be a bit more needy, and hence why I've been searching. I guess I should also consider the "relativeness" of things, too, though. What's the big deal if points needed changing once in 10 years, for example. That is sort of where I was looking into, overall, tho.

Thanks for the comments.