My 1650 needs more electrical output!!
 

i have a 1650 that is full time cab/thrower duty. i am installing a small electrical heater to clear the windshield and take the chill out since at times I'm in it for an hour or more if we get a large snowfall.

the heater actually puts out pretty good heat but manual says it draws 12 amps on low and 20 amps on high. i don't think my 15 amp electrical system it up to the task... even with led headlights that draw pretty much nothing. I have an electric windshield wiper but only turn on for short periods of time. Also have an led strobe light which draws very little. and the electric pto I'm sure draws at least 3-5 amps. so even on the low setting I've pretty much maxed out my electrical system.

reason i started this thread is i need ideas on how to get more current without making the tractor look stupid lol. i am considering a very small alternator of some sore off the back of the hydro shaft? or how hard would it be to get another stator mounted elsewhere on the machine and just run two stock charging systems? I have another stator flywheel and regulator just not sure where it could fit?

any ideas would be appreciated.

I figure i should have about 30 amps total to do this right.

You could install a 30A stator that Kohler makes. But then, you would have to get a 30A V/R and upgrade your wiring to 10 Ga Wire, to handle all the extra amperage. Hmmmmm, would it be worth it...???? :Huh:

So most kohler stators mount the same/use same magnets? maybe this 25 amp command conversion kit would work? price is right and would look pretty stock other than regulator looks different and of course wiring needs to be beefed up.

what do you think Roland?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/KOHLER-COMMA...item4acce639c3

propane heater? Li'l Buddy? You get enough air leakage that CO would not be a concern. Or, get one of those heaters they make for trucks and fab a hot water circuit by wrapping the muffler with a copper coil and put a small electric pump on the circuit. The Li'l Buddy heaters work pretty well, just need to find a place to put it.

Doesn't your cab trap some engine heat? I wondered about that because I have a chance to pick up a cab for my 1650

the cab would pretty much only trap body heat. engine and exhaust heat is directed out the front of the tractor

Could you run another battery off the back of the cub in a custom battery box for the heater and run it in parallel to your current battery? I'm not good at all with electrical, but that was just a thought.

Cub Cadet 123

my main problem is the windshield will frost up if its really cold out. If the sun is out it is not normally a problem but i do most of my snow removal at night after work. I think i can squeek by with this heater on low heat which is 12 amps but still taxing the electrical system. did a test of this heater and it actually seems to move a lot of air and its pretty warm too.

The main culprit in fogged up windows is the breathing process. Air circulation in the cab would help.

i was waiting for someone to suggest a fan! I just figure i put a cab on to get out of the wind i don't want cold air blowing around via fan lol. would like to circulate warm air instead of cold.

does anyone know for sure if a kohler command stator is the same mount pattern and diameter as a k341?

might have to find out.

I have an off topic tractor that has a snow thrower and soft sided cab. I've spent several hours in it with no heater. I usually unzip my coat when I run the tractor with cab. You get the inside of the cab too warm and snow will turn to ice when it hits the wind shield.

Had that problem with big tractors/trucks.

I think I would just mount a large battery on the back and run the heater from it. Put it on a battery charger when it's not in use. It would also give you more weight on the back.

Or, option 3... man up! Take the cab off and wear layers. My snow fighter never has a problem with foggy cabs. :beerchug:

I'm in the same boat! I got the same idea, finding a 20 or 25A stator and regulator upgrade I could fit, now I wonder if we can rewire the original one in a way to produce more power.:bigthink:

For the moment the only cheap solution I found is using this ammo box to store a bigger deep cycle AGM battery in the back of the tractor.
Since you take more "Juice" then what the stator can provide, you need to plug the battery on a charger/maintainer after every use.
I wish someone come with a better idea:coffee:

http://img577.imageshack.us/img577/1926/batterybox.jpg http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/8596/gc36.jpg

What about adding an oil heat? Plumb two lines from the oil pan, drain plug for "suction", another or maybe new port for return. Put a little radiator, maybe a vehicle heater core at the base of the windshield with a fan behind it. Then you would only need to power a fan and small oil pump.

Someone else will probably chime in and remind me that there's only 2 quarts of oil in the engine and the last thing you want to do is take oil from the pan....but it's not the worst idea for a Monday before coffee. Haha

Otherwise I agree a second battery mounted on the back, plugged into a charger when not in use is what I would do.

Bill

Make you a replacement lower grill panel with a 4" flex dryer ducting with an inline fan. Run duct back to your cab.

Hey it's not a bad idea bill! You give me another one :biggrin2:

How about plumbing some copper line around the muffler and use Anti freeze instead of oil? A thermal switch can be use to start the fan and a thermostat on the radiator! This is a dam good coffee :HeeHee:

If you wanted to run everything plus:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aa...0500/overview/

Any idea where to mount it? Lol

Easy one!:biggrin2: Remove the gas tank, fab a bracket for the alternator, redesign the drive shaft end with a pulley...Now fix the tank over the hood...:ROTF2:

For more of a "cub" look you could get a used starter/generator and bracket. Take off the side shields, mount the s/g and get 169 decals for the hood. :biggrin2:

You said originally this a dedicated snow removal machine. If that's the case is it possible to mount the alternator underneath the tractor and power it with a pulley off the drive shaft? That way it's out of view and since it doesn't mow, it's not in the way of a deck or anything.

Bill

This beats all...............
http://www.grainger.com/product/TECH...h9h?s_pp=false
Can get electric gloves to go with!

I have try to figure out this problem, looking to rewiring the stator but even if I get success, I still need to replace the regulator, the wiring, and possibly the ignition switch since I don't think the OEM one can handle 25A. Of course you can design a auxiliary relay to handle that but it's a lot of work and I prefer K.I.S.S solution

Plug the heater direct on an extra or bigger battery and your good to go, My Optima "Redtop" I salvage from my Diesel Jeep can old a 25A discharge for 100 minutes, enough to power you heater for a few hours (thermostat control wise) and this cost me NADA!

PS: My Optima is 8 years old and start my tractor like the engine run to catch a deer! The new Optima are fab by Johnson Control and don't worth crap...Buy a Sear Platinum they are made by Odessey. :ThumbsUp:

If you add a bigger alternator, as long as you wire in your extra accessories to the battery, the only part of the existing wiring that wouldn't be heavy enough is the charging circuit wiring. Nothing else is going to draw "extra" amps just because they are available.

Use a Kubota alternator and drive it off the back of the motor on the pulley before the driveshaft. I don't know how many amps it makes, can't find a spec, but I'm sure it is no less than 15A. Usually they are around 15-30A. Or, like what was suggested earlier, use a 30A Kohler stator. (Click on the pic for a link)

Attachment 45699

i was eyeing up this alternator also. Nice and small easy to hide. pretty sure quietlines don't have a pulley off the back of the engine like the older ones did. i will check for sure though. Do you know if this alternator requires an external regulator? can't figure out why it has two wires coming out of it. Does it work like a stator on a k series?

per J-Mechs link it says:
OEM(s): Kubota
Voltage: 12
Regulator: E/R
Weight: 6 lbs. / 2.72 kg

I suspect E/R = external regulator.

I saw where the O.E.M. of this is pushing $300 on some webpages, geez.

Yes, Double07 is correct, it is external regulated.
If the 1650 doesn't have the pulley, just change the driver to the pulley style. I'm pretty sure you don't even have to shorten the driveshaft to put it in. Lew might know. :bigthink: But even if you do need to shorten it, that's no big deal.

That little Kubota alternator would work on a hydro,just run it off the rear output shaft on the hydro unit.I am not sure how much space is needed for it though.
I would also keep that charging system isolated from the oem one.

We were talking about driving it off the rear of the engine with the pulley style adapter like was used for the hydraulic lift units. Are the two hubs the same length Lew? I think they are.... :bigthink:

There is no pulley,and it you put one on from another motor that has a pulley the debris screen will cover it partially.
The rear hydro shaft is a good place.

Something like this is another possibility

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...6277_200446277

I think the most simple solution is to carry a deep cycle battery on back and charge it when the tractor is not in use. The extra weight is always welcome on a small machine anyway. Although that little genny is only a little bigger than a deep cycle battery, and you wouldn't have to worry about recharging.

you can run a microwave and a heater in the cab and heat up some soup with that setup...

I was thinking that an early GM style Alternator would be the easiest to wire in but the mounting would take a little fabrication. I am not sure how much Horsepower would be lost to an additional larger alternator, that may be another thing to think about.

I got everyone's creative juices flowing lol!

You nail it! :ROTF2:

I was tempted to propose a wind generator since he always snow on windy day! LMAO

Ok let's stay focused on real solution, a 30A stator you said? I like that...Wich one? :HeadScratch:

The output shaft of the hydro is most likely a no go, unless maybe you fab an adapter to run the kubota stator directly inline with the shaft. (there is really not much clearance for a pulley to drive the stator with) I beleive that kubota stator is only good for 15-20 amps. you can go for a mini alternator that will do 60+ amps if you cand find where to mount it. make sure that if you do use an alternator, that you are spining it the right direction. it will produce power turning either direction, but it will not cool itself if turned the wrong way (this is not a problem on stators like the one J-mech showed, which is probably the reason that he showed it)

A tractor with an auxiliary genset. Sam, you're a genius! Where do you put the Blu ray player and Flat screen? Perhaps a heads-up display? Yeah, that's the ticket!

Honestly, I have the exact same cab, and wanted to do the exact same thing as macman. I wasn't going to post anything about it till I had it figured out and installed. So, I had already been working on the best solution. My plan was the small alternator I listed, but hadn't settled on an exact one because I hadn't found the amp ratings yet. Just like any other alternator, I'm sure there are different amp rated ones.

Make a pulley like this:
(Please disregard the the other things in the pic, it's for another idea.)
Attachment 45718


Then mount the alternator off to one side, or below. I was looking to add about 30 amps. Just need to find an alt to do it. I run 6 30w lights, the win wiper, PTO and wanted to add a heater for a total estimated amp draw, (everything running) of 43amps. Adding a second alt to the system of 30 amp gives a total of 45 available. Plenty. Second alternators don't cause problems. Actually there are several trucks and vans that have 2. Wiring on the machine doesn't have to change, and the additional HP needed for this alt will be under 1 hp, so that really isn't a concern.

Roland mentioned a 30Amp stator for the Kohler. I can't seem to find one, but I did find a 25amp. Still not enough on it's own, but I might install it so I have an available 55 amps with the 2 alternators. It only draws amps when needed. That's the job of the V.R.