Only Cub Cadets

Only Cub Cadets (https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/index.php)
-   IH Cub Cadet Tractors (GT) (https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=9)
-   -   Narrow front wheels with "super steer axle" (https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=29684)

ccannon222 01-29-2014 05:34 PM

Narrow front wheels with "super steer axle"
 
I have a 126 that I use for snow removal in the winter time. I have a 42" plow and a QA42 snow thrower. I am currently running narrow front wheels with tri-ribs and 23x8.50 turfs filled with RV anti-freeze and dual wheel weights.

I love the current setup, however the front axle is wore jam out. Spindles, steering arm and axle casting are very sloppy. This tractor has been in my family since new in 1970 and it hasn't had a summer or winter off. Engine has been overhauled a couple times.

I want to replace the front axle with an axle off of a CCC 1535. This axle is similar to the factory axle in looks and function. My problem is that I can not find any narrow front wheels that will work with the 1" spindles?

I thought about modifying the 1535 spindles to accept the 3/4 ID wheel bearing on my existing wheels, however I like the idea of having the larger wheel bearings as I have had to change out the 3/4 bearings a couple times over the years due to the weight of the thrower and the abuse this tractor receives.

Any ideas?

Chris

Yosemite Sam 01-29-2014 07:33 PM

First off, please understand that I am not familiar with the axle and wheels from a 1535 so I don't know what the wheels look like.

I have cut wide Narrow Frame wheels and welded them back together to make narrow wheels with good results.

I chuck them in the lathe and cut a band about 1 3/8 wide out of the wide side of the wheel, then weld them (inside and out) back together, then put them back in the lathe and "clean up" the welds to make them look nicer.

Depending on how the wheels you have, are made this may not be practical or even possible.

Hopefully someone will come along with the brand and part number of the bearings that you need and get you fixed up.

dale c. 01-29-2014 07:59 PM

have a machine shop cut the hubs out of your narrow rims and make new 1" bearing hubs and weld them back in

ccannon222 01-29-2014 09:08 PM

Those are good ideas. Thanks. I will check with our local machine shop to see if they can cut the 3/4 hubs out and put 1" back in.

Finding a bearing with the same OD as the current bearing and with a ID of 1" is an interesting idea. I wonder how much that would effect the load carrying ability and longevity.

The only idea I came up with since my original post was to run trailer hubs and wheels on the 1535 spindles. I read some old posts on ihcubcadets where someone did that. Great idea if you are using a loader, however I don't think I need that strong of setup.

Beside, I'm trying to keep this tractor looking somewhat original.

Chris

ccannon222 02-01-2014 08:45 AM

Machine shop cost????
 
How much should I expect to pay to have the hubs cut out of the narrow wheels and have new hubs supplied and welded in?

I'm being told the local machine shop is very expensive and they would probably charge $75 to $100 a wheel.

Chris

Sam Mac 02-01-2014 09:04 AM

Do you have the wheels from the 1535?

ccannon222 02-01-2014 09:54 AM

I do. The bead surface is a little bent but I'm sure it can be straighten out ok.

Chris

Sam Mac 02-01-2014 10:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ccannon222 (Post 240600)
I do. The bead surface is a little bent but I'm sure it can be straighten out ok.

Chris

Post a pic of what you have to work with. Most of the time those wheels can be straightened pretty easy with an adjustable wrench, pliers and a ball peen hammer. Some new tires with tubes and you should be good to go.

Where in VA are you?

ccannon222 02-02-2014 09:41 AM

Wheels are in my father's garage. Next time I've over there I'll snap a few pix. The beads are not that bad. They can be straightened out.

The problem is they are too wide for the tires I like. I could cut and weld them like one person suggested, however I have no way of making sure the cuts and wheel are straight.

I am located in the Fredericksburg region, however I take trips around the state several times a year.

Chris

sgirdham 02-02-2014 10:01 AM

IMHO you would be better off replacing the worn our narrow frame steering parts, do the super steer upgrade and use the HD tie rod ends. People have done this for years with a lot of success. There are several threads on this forum as examples.

Sam Mac 02-02-2014 10:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ccannon222 (Post 240808)
Wheels are in my father's garage. Next time I've over there I'll snap a few pix. The beads are not that bad. They can be straightened out.

The problem is they are too wide for the tires I like. I could cut and weld them like one person suggested, however I have no way of making sure the cuts and wheel are straight.

I am located in the Fredericksburg region, however I take trips around the state several times a year.

Chris

Cutting is no problem, just chuck them in a lathe and cut away. How wide do you want them?

ccannon222 02-03-2014 09:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Mac (Post 240824)
Cutting is no problem, just chuck them in a lathe and cut away. How wide do you want them?

I would like them to be the same width as the factory narrow wheels. I believe that is 3.75". I would like to verify that number though. The tires I am using currently are 4x8 GBC tri-ribs.

Chris

ccannon222 02-07-2014 04:30 PM

Possible solution????
 
Thanks to a fellow OCC members suggestion I found some 8x3.75 wheels that may work. They are listed as having a 50MM ID hub. This is around 1.97”. The 1535 wheels are 2”. I think I should be able to remove 1/64 of material to allow the 1535 bearings to fit. He offers the wheels with two different hub lengths. One 2.78” and one 3.38”. The 1535 wheels are 2.75”, however they are offset. I am thinking that I will be able to get the wheels with 3.375” hubs and cut one side shorter to offset the center of the tire to match the 1535. Or at least come close. My only concern with this strategy is it looks like the center hub on these wheels are not an even 50MM all the way through.

Any thoughts?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/8-RIM-WHEEL-...ht_2220wt_1184

http://www.ebay.com/itm/8-RIM-WHEEL-...ht_1442wt_1184

dbuck 02-08-2014 07:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ccannon222 (Post 241843)
Thanks to a fellow OCC members suggestion I found some 8x3.75 wheels that may work. They are listed as having a 50MM ID hub. This is around 1.97”. The 1535 wheels are 2”. I think I should be able to remove 1/64 of material to allow the 1535 bearings to fit. He offers the wheels with two different hub lengths. One 2.78” and one 3.38”. The 1535 wheels are 2.75”, however they are offset. I am thinking that I will be able to get the wheels with 3.375” hubs and cut one side shorter to offset the center of the tire to match the 1535. Or at least come close. My only concern with this strategy is it looks like the center hub on these wheels are not an even 50MM all the way through.

Any thoughts?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/8-RIM-WHEEL-...ht_2220wt_1184

http://www.ebay.com/itm/8-RIM-WHEEL-...ht_1442wt_1184

:Morning: From the picture, you are right. There is a bushing/bearing stop in the bore. Measure the depth of your bushing/bearing that you are going to use. Looks like 3/4" depth from the picture. I think I would have a machine shop do the bore, to match the bushing/bearing O.D., doing it by hand you may end up the a olong bore. Good luck in your endevers. :American Flag 1:

Yosemite Sam 02-08-2014 01:05 PM

Looks like those may be just the ticket, the price is right too.

Let us know how it works out for you.


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:00 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2026, vBulletin Solutions Inc.