Brinly Hitch Adapter Plans
 

I want to build a Brinly-type hitch adapter for my narrow frame Cubs. I found design plans from Steve Spencer on the hitch and receive the lift strap dimensions from Charlie Proctor. I question Steve’s dimension for the width as he has 9.50 – using .38 inch steel that would mean that the lower hitch bracket on the tractor itself would have to be smaller than 8.75 – I measured mine at around 9.06 to 9.10. I made a drawing using some of Steve’s design (okay, most of Steve’s design) and Charlie’s lift strap measurements. I changed the 9.50 dimension from Steve’s to 9.88 (I’m thinking about increasing this also).

Unfortunately my design plan is in the pdf format and is 111KB, so I can’t attach them here (too big). I want to get some feedback, and this might benefit anyone else who wants to build one. So……

http://cubcadet.1.forumer.com/index....pe=post&id=442

nicely done I was going to build one for my 782, is it nescisary to have the inside mount on the rear diff cover where the the pivot mounts to? i guess i could see it being a better stonger set up than just the single hole org factory set up


:IH Trusted Hand:

No, but it's a good idea. The double bracket lets you use clevis pins to attach the sleeve hitch adapter to the 3-point without destroying the holes in the lower 3-point bracket and adapter. With the single lower bracket, I'd advise using a rod all the way through both sides, and not using clevis pins, as the pins will cause wear in the hitch and adapter if it is just a single bracket.

Here is will happen to youe sleeve hitch adapter if you don't use a double yoke:
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...Info/b03-1.jpg
The shiney area was welded to build egg shape hole back up. The holes had that much wear in them from a single yoke system. Aother problem with a single yoke set up is you will have side play in you implement.

I did some research awhile back in the Cub Cadet parts lookup. The IH tiller, box blade and rear blade had support on both sides of the implement's arm. IH engineers saw the problem and had a solution for their products. I'm not a big fan of using a a rod all the way through both sides as Matt suggested. The rod can and will bend.

This is the set up I use:
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...fhitch02-1.jpg

gotta wait a while but ill be getting on that project after my 106 rehab... should be a fun little project.

The doubling of the lower hitch gives me an idea - tomorrow I will try and put a Rev "A" to my plans to include an extra "arm" on both sides to mimick what Merk has shown. Only it will bring the doubling effect to the hitch adapter, not to the tractor side.

There may be a couple of ways around the problem. One is as Matt says, is to run a rod through to both sides and then encase that in a pipe to prevent bending. Or, use bushings in the yoke of the hitch adapter to spread out the load and to give it a bearing surface. Thirdly, double of the yokes on the hitch adapter to mimic Merk's picture (only the doubling will be on the hitch adapter only). Lastly, follow Merk's picture. I will see what I can come up with.

T MO
THAT shound be just about the same but just doubled in another area, and i just put a new gasket and fresh hytran in there, so not wanting to break thoses bolts loose

Based on Merk's comments and based on more info, I made a revision to the design. Comments or suggestions appreciated, thanks.

http://cubcadet.1.forumer.com/index....pe=post&id=443

T MO
The double arm is a good way to go if you only have a sleeve hitch adapter. I have at least 3 different attachments that will need a double arm. I would add a cross brace to lift tab (#6). My sleeve hitch adapter is bent in that area.

Merk,
I wonder about the strength of the lift tab. Having it welded to just the tube didn't seem to be to strong, so I was considering strengthening that area anyways. Thanks for the suggestion.

Looking good! Looking forward to the final draft so I can get one built!


Thank you!

looks great but do you really need the inside ones to go all the way back

I hafta agree with rwire125 about the inner straps not needing to go all the way to the back.

But I really think that Diz Jr. has already built the ultimate adapter.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...hthe169002.jpg


http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...hthe169001.jpg

Here is the thread,

http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showt...p?t=414&page=2

From that, weld on short straps toward the front of the "X" to go on the inside of your lower bracket.

No, they don't need to go all the way back, but there has to be some cross brace or space so they can be welded.

That X-design is probably an overkill, but it would be effective. One thing you have to be sure you nailed the over width dimension as that design won't have any give to it. It would be strong.

One thing I would do with that design is nixed the X and have one brace running horizontal across tying both yokes together and then having it welded to the lift tab strengthening it...... it does give me ideas.

the only thing i see wrong with the X is it looks like he started out with an org Brinly hitch insted of fabing the whole hitch but def looks strong. to make yourself square is the easyest way to go welding one up. and T-MO think you could just make a spacer to weld on the inside the run another peace back to double the pivit area just a thought, and ill prob use your plans when i do mine, good work bruder

The hitch was not made by Brinly. Not sure who made it. Here is a hitch that came on Orginals:
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...eveHitch01.jpg
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...eveHitch02.jpg
Hitch that came on 70/100s and some later narrow frame Cubs:
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...100/plow07.jpg
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...100/plow08.jpg
Current style from Brinly:
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...tablizer05.jpg
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...owhitch01a.jpg

I don't like the 90 degree corners. The 90 degree corner style hitch will be the easiest to catch trash when plowing. I have feeling that is one of the reasons why Brinly change their hitch. The second pictire Yosemite Sam posted is on of the better designs I've seen.

Merk, any chance that I could get the measurements of the lift straps? I have the same hitch for my CCO, but I need to make the lift straps. I know they are shorter than the wide frames, I just don't know how much. Thanks for your help
Rod

I don't like the 90 degree corners. The 90 degree corner style hitch will be the easiest to catch trash when plowing. I have feeling that is one of the reasons why Brinly change their hitch.



MERK
I really dont see what diff the 90 corner makes in that reguard

You haven't done very much plowing with a moldboard plow?
Sometimes the trash on the surface likes to bunch up when plowing. Anything like a 90 degree sleeve hitch adapter can and will catch the trash. Then you will have to stop and unplug the plow.

If you have a torch, you can very easily bend 3/8" thick metal.

Here you go Rod:
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...itchstraps.jpg

I didn't give any hole diameters on the bottom 3 holes. My hitch has a bushing that goes thru the straps and hitch. I'm not sure if it thats the way it came from the factory. Keep in mind this not a scaled drawing.

Merk, thanks so much for the drawing, this will help a bunch. I am trying to get the CCO together and ready with new hitch, Ag tires and plow for plow days here in MI in April. One other thing I see on your set up was the wider lower attachment that the Brinly fits into. I like that idea to keep the Brinly steady, a narrow one and the wider one. Is that a Cub part or fabricated? I looked in all of my parts books and didn't see one listed.
Thanks again for all of your help
Rod

Hope to be at the plow day in Michigan this year. I had planned to be there last year..... a deer desided to play a game of chicken with me-deer lost and a I had a wreck Suburban, trailer and Cubs.

The wide bracket came with the box blade and rear grader blade( not 100% sure). There are several parts vendors that make and sell the wide bracket. I would start by checking at the top of the page.

heres my home made brinly hitch. got it from a forum member i think he made it? works good for me

Someone PLEASE come up with correct plans for the CCO "Y" shaped one!!


I would be willing to bear your children if you do! :bigthink:

can you use the normal brinly adapter on a original? or is it way different then the y original style?

I have the "U" shaped on it now, but want the correct one for it so I can use the current one on the 682.. Nothing says I cannot flip flop it back and forth but would like the right looking one at least for the O. Tired of waiting for them on flea bay and then end early 90% of the time.

Then I can plow with one, and disk or culti with the other.

This is quite an informative thread. Is the issue the fact that store bought ones are flimsy? Or is it the challenge of building one? Anyone see a problem with buying a Brinly either new or used and beefing it up?

ihnick: Either the early "Y" shaped sleeve hitch adaprtor or the later much more stable (less twisting) "U" shaped sleeve hitch adaptor will work any IH made Cub Cadet. The early "Y" shaped ones are basically desireable only for collectors wanting original style parts. As many of the posts have noted, even the "U" shaped ones can often stand some additional bracing.

Myron B

New ones, as well as used ones, are still available. I've seen some on one or two of our sponsor's websites. Prices aren't too bad, but as noted, they could use some strengthening. Also, for those who like to make their own, why not?

Check CC Specialties - they have them for $165. http://ccspecialties.org/3points_sleevehitches.html

JayBrd - I think ther's a "Y" shaped one on ebay right now.

T-MO
Ive used your basic designe fo mine but used 1/2'' insted of the 3/8 and got to try it out yesterday and had no problems with it being square ill post some pictures soon as its getting a paint job now and I fabed up the the lift assambly as well

just a few pictures of my hitch,lower mount and lift

http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...5/100_2750.jpg
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...5/100_2751.jpg
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...5/100_2752.jpg
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...5/100_2753.jpg
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...5/100_2749.jpg

That is one HECK of a nice tractor ya got there rewire! LOVE the rear ags, what size and name brand are they? Did they fit right on the stock rims? Great job on the sleeve hitch too. You painting it up red like the tractor when the time comes? How thick of flat stock did you use??

Dumb question.....the bolts you use to bolt on the bottom "U" bracket at the bottom of the transfer case/tranny....are you guys using the same stock bolts or are you having to buy new longer ones? If so is a grade 5 bolt okay or does it need to be grade 8? Are you lucky enough to get the bolts out without having to replace the gasket on the rear cover? I am assuming so, but just asking. I see no real reason to remove the entire rear cover, but who the heck knows anymore??

Longer bolts are required. Grade 5 is fine.

Matt is correct, I used 1/2'' cold rolled steel so used 1/2'' longer grade 5 bolts and just removing the btm 3 had no leaks so was good there. next is to run a a ear up to the lower axel bolt on each side for even more strength on the sheve mount or u bracket, but really need to get the tiller going, the rears are 26'' true powers and stock rims, was thinking of painting the lift black? also need to get red of the chains and make the side plates for down pressure. thanks for your comits mountain, ive got her just about the way i want it still need a blower and have an 18mag to get rebuilt yet

Nice tractor, nice work on the sleeve adapter.

It's been a while I know, but I finally got my sleeve adapter made. Other things got in the way and I wasn't able, nor had the time to work on this. I will post pictures of it when I get batteries in my digital camera.

Now the helper spring project will be my next thing that I want to build. Then maybe a back blade.

Thanks to All! This is going to be interesting! Now I could use a picture of how the lift arm goes up under the tractor frame....maybe to the rockshaft? I dont believe I will be lifting the disk-gang off the ground, but setting the depth? Anyway, I'll be taking some picts of what we come up with. Maybe a turnbuckel insted of the liftarm if we cant figure it out before I leave by7:30 in the am. Thanks Terry also.

Never mind, found all the info. I need! Thanks again!