Bad 782D diesel drive shaft
 

Could anyone help me with finding some parts to rebuild my drive shaft. 782D
I waited to long to stop and fix it so last week it broke big time.The part that
bolts to the crankshaft is bad not usable. And the drive shaft itself where
it fits into the thing that bolts to the crank shaft is wallowed away. I have a 782 Gas for parts but the drive shaft is to long.Any help would sure be apreciated.

:Welcome2:

JeffinPA (member here) makes driveshafts....... Here is his ad.
I don't want to speak for Jeff, but he will probably need the specs off the old one, or need it physically, because the diesel shaft is different.
The flanges are still available from CC. This is the rear one...... Cub Cadet Parts.
Here is the front...... Cub Cadet Parts.


Or, you could do a driveshaft mod. Sam Mac here on the site can tell you how to build a CV shaft from a newer tractor to fit....... Driveshaft Conversion.

Whatever you decide, we're here to help!! :beerchug:

Welcome to OCC! You can also check with our sponsors, or place a wanted ad. :beerchug:

Welcome to OCC! Glad to have you.

Good news is it looks like the parts are still available, bad news is Cub is proud of them. This is the parts list per Parts Tree.

7 Cub Cadet 941-3004 (replaces 741-3004)
Bushing, Self Aligning Ball Your price: $26.27
:
Cub Cadet 915-3000 (replaces 715-3000)
Pin, 1/4 X 1-3/8 Hvy Cld Spr Your price: $3.61

8 Cub Cadet 903-0794 (replaces 703-0794)
Coupler, Drive Shaft Your price: $129.33

9 Cub Cadet 722-3000
Disc, Flexible Your price: $15.55

10 Cub Cadet 748-3001
Arm, Coupling Your price: $21.72

Cub Cadet 710-0347 (replaces 710-3037)
Bolt, 3/8 X 1-3/4 Type 5 Your price: $3.10

Cub Cadet 710-0520
Bolt, 3/8 X 1-1/2 Type 5 Your price: $3.10

11 Cub Cadet 931-3009 (replaces 731-3009)
Fan, Cooling Your price: $17.24
:
Cub Cadet 710-0460
Screw, #10 X 1-1/2 Znp P/Hdcr Mach Not available
Cub Cadet 736-0931
Washer, .219 X .500 X .036 Your price: $3.19

Cub Cadet 712-0998
Nut, No. 10 Cad P/T Lock Type 5 Your price: $2.62

12 Cub Cadet 738-3051
Shaft, Drive Your price: $44.11

13 Cub Cadet 903-1005AP (replaces 703-1005A)
Flange, Drive Shaft Your price: $95.60

The CV shaft is the best way to go but you may be able to repair what you have. Starting at the engine as Sam said the bushing insert can be replaced. I'm out of them now but maybe someone has a few extra they could sell you. They cost about $4 to $5 from these people http://www.triangleoshkosh.com/eng/p.../ball-bushings but they have a minimum order, you need part #HE1410P.
Attachment 52109

Next are #9 the rag joints, you need 4 new ones from Cub. The last ones I got were a little under $15 each.

I have never had to replace #10 and I don't think they wear but check yours.

If you have a drill press you can make your own shaft, they are easy to do. I ordered a piece of 5/8 shaft from McMaster Carr and did mine in a pos drill press that isn't worth $20.

The rear coupling is the expensive part like Sam listed. You could make your own if you know someone that can weld. Here is the hub part that would be needed.
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Power-T...027-1-1495.axd

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

The issue in trying to do a CV style shaft for a 782 is going to be the length. I don't know of a factory shaft that is short enough to fit. That means one would need to cut a section out of the center, sleeve it and weld it back together. The adapters for the ends are no big deal. Other possible problem is fan clearance. I don't know if the Cyclops style fan will fit. Now if someone wants to drop off a 782D for me to play with I'd see if I can make something. :bigthink:

oak the rear coupler on my 782d isnt splined. did the later ones have them splined

Gt383mag, I'm sorry, I was thinking SGT. You are correct, they are not splined.:bash2:...I suffer from CRS!

Here is why I think the drivelines don't last as long in a diesel as they do in a gasser. The engine with the front coupler installed and the input shaft on the pump are not aligned. If you look at the front rag joint connection you can see how they are off.
Attachment 52122

Another problem is that one of the bolt heads going to the adapter on the motor will hit one of the bolt heads that goes to the shaft flange as seen in the above pic. If you turn the motor by hand you can see at one point there is a nice gap between the bolt heads and then they will hit in the next 1/2 turn. I use cap screws now but you still need to grind them. I don't think Kubota knew what type of driveline CCC was going to use and you can see why in the pic below. The blue line is where the drive shaft flange is and it lines up with one of the bolts on the engine flange. The red line are the bolts that go through the rag joint.
Attachment 52123

If you do the driveline with the correct parts like it came with it should last a good 500 hours IMHO. That's pretty good and why I go back with the same setup. But I still think the CV is a better design.

Sam, I need to get with you on a CV type shaft. I don't know how large they are and there is not much room in that area. I have flexed my 882 enough that the drive line bolts hit the steering tube.

Years ago I had the same problem with the bolt heads hitting. If you look carefully at the parts breakdown. Cub cadet parts lists "carriage bolt". I replaced the hex head bolts on my 1512 with carriage bolts and have not had a problem.

Todd

The CV joint is about 2-3/4" OD. Get a set of braces on that 882 before you bust something.

When i got mine they had just rebuilt the front joint all new and didnt do rear end. So i have half a new shaft... reaar is shot and almost ruined the hydro so i got a cv setup to replace it

That's a good idea. I just grind down the heads of bolts and have never had an issue. I'll have to remember that for next time and read the parts breakdown better. :biggrin2:

cv drive shaft for 782d
 

I have been running the cv drive shaft in my 782D for three weeks now
Nice set up but expensive. No problem with clearance.
Got the adapters from Mac. Found a drive shaft from an 1863. Including the fan.
New boots and seals for the cv's. Cut and sleeved the shaft to shorten it.

Will not say it is great till a few hundred hours. Seems smoother even with
the single coiled pin style shaft for the hydro pump. Would prefer to have used the spline shaft for the trans end.

Still working on removing the four tight bolts in the axle flange's to install the axle braces
Joe

cub
 

Hi Joe, don't you just love locktight on steel bolts in aluminum? Makes you feel all warm and fuzzy. Even though you know the worst thing world is a strong mechanic. Mike:biggrin2:

Joe

When you get a chance could you post some pics of what you did to shorten the shaft?

Photo's of the drive shaft conversion with Sam Mac's adapters
 

Really like the CV drive shaft in the 782D
If I had looked closer the alt belt would have been changed.
Only two years old.

Sam Mac did a great job on the adapter's

Looks good Joe!

Something that is on my 2084 and our 2072 is a piece of rubber wrapped around one of the hydro lines to keep them from vibrating against each other. A 1 inch piece of garden hose and a zip tie would work.

Having a similar issue and need to replace my driveline flange (703-1005A)in a 882. The link someone provided above for the replacement Bushing by itself is no longer working. Does anyone have any specs on that bushing?

Jeff has them and can make the flange if needed.
https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...0target=_blank

Here are the specs on the bushing.
https://www.triangleoshkosh.com/cata...q=HE1410P&cat=

What length should the CV shaft be in a 1512 to convert over?