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Tiller
Hey guys just wondering if a JD tiller like this http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/bar/1623720024.html would work on a 127. I can't seem to find IH tillers anywhere nearby.
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?? What is the gearbox like....does it work the same as an IH? I think the tractor might revolt though if you tried to put it on the rear. Might not be worth the chance.....might have a fight on your hands.:BB&YS:
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Not easily. Just be patient, you'll find what you're looking for eventually.
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I Don't know much about them either. I have spent the last two days rebuilding mine (1450 #2 tiller) and now I'm trying to figure out how in the heck all the pieces attach to the tractor. Heck I don't even know if I have all the pieces. Just keep an eye out and you'll find what your looking for. Might try advertising on Craig's or watch the classifieds here.
Chris |
Can anyone tell me the difference between a 1A and #2 tiller?
I put an ad on Craigslist searcing for one, after sorting through the spam of people saying they have new ones they are looking to give away I am left with two options. One a guy said he has a nice one for 425 and then someone said check ebay. There are 3 on Ebay from Keymar MD which is about an hour away, two are #1's and one is a #2. I think the first guy that wrote me must have looked up the prices on ebay. Would either style work on a 127? |
A 1, 1a 2a will all work on your 127. Because the rear rands are the same in all the ih cub cadets, all ih cub tillers should fit. You may have to change drive pully sizes on the bottom of the gearbox though. Series 2b tillers used a 5/8 belt as opposed to the 1/2 belt on your 127.
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Well I was all geared up to take a road trip to PA this weekend to pick up a tiller from a Member on here.... (Thanks Again) and was talking with my wife about going last night and she said she had a surprise. I had showed her an ebay listing a few days ago of a tiller to show her what I was looking for so she could see the pictures. Well last night she said she clicked and bought it for me early yesterday. I have to go pick it up Saturday, It's a 1a with both extensions. She paid a hefty price for it so I hope it's in good shape. Talk about a good surprise.
I'll post some pics when I get it. |
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Thanks for the links :beerchug: I'm sure those pictures are going to come in handy trying to put everything together.
I am going to try to sneak away from work early today if possible to pick it up. They are calling for rain here over the next few days.... nothing worse than a new toy you can't play with. Quote:
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Well I picked it up last night and I was in heaven. The guy had a ton of cubs there, he said there was about 140 there. Had a nice 100 for sale I was thinking about getting.
So here is the tiller, a #1 with two extensions. I need to pick up two belts, and some bolts to bolt the gearbox to the rear from what I'm seeing so far. It's raining here so it might be a few days before I get to put it on. http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/l...2/98481026.jpg http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/l...2/fd3d4a89.jpg http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/l...2/d6a23ec3.jpg http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/l...2/6dc72daf.jpg http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/l...2/efeeda1c.jpg |
I need to dig in the book again, I think it gives bolt sizes for the gearbox. I am sick today so I stayed home. It's driving me crazy not being able to go work on it. I am hoping to feel better so I can run out and try to find hy tran fluid and a filter so I can get that changed before I put the tiller on. Maybe try to pick up the bolts and belts while I am out.
The tiller book shows to weld a rod on the mule drive pully to adjust tension. Mine only had a pain in the but spring on it now so thats something else to look at. Still have my hands full. |
Well I'm at tractor supply and they can not find either belt even when I gave them sizes and numbers from the belt chart.
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Saturday I picked up both belts for the tiller based off the belt chart from Carquest. I know the big one was 144 7/8" or so. I still have to clear out the garage so I can have room to work on it.
Yesterday I was able to make it to a Case IH dealer, I picked up 2 gal of hytran, trans filter, air filter, and rear gasket. Just for the fun of it I decided to ask if they had the large belt for a 127 with a #1 tiller. He looked it up and said yes, it's 141" and $86. :bash2: Hopefully sometime this week I can clear my garage, change the fluid and filter, the guy at the dealership said I should pull the rear cover off completly to clean everything out. I have to pull off the dozer blade, make some type of bolt adjuster in place of my spring tension mule drive, and get the gear box bolted on to try out the 144" belt I have. If that doesn't work I'll have to take a trip out and get the 141" belt. Hopefully I can have it all together by this weekend to try it out on the garden. |
I had a heck of a time finding a replacement belt for my 1A. As far as I know, the long belt, as with the gen/starter belt, is cub only because of the deep V design.
I had to go to my local cub dealer, and even then, it was special order. As far as the bolts go, almost every bolt is a 3/8-16. The bolts used to hold the gearbox on are 1" long. When I take the box off, I double the washers up so the bolts don't bottom out. That's good that the tiller you bought has the extensions and covers. Before you use it, you'll want to slide the tines off, clean up the shaft, and grease them. The pins on mine were so worn, it took awhile. I found this out while using it, and getting it apart while it was covered in dirt, in the field was a nightmare. |
Magnum:
Rule 1: Box Stores like TSC, Lowes, Home Depot, etc., are not Cub Cadet parts dealers!!! Go to a genuine full-line Cub Cadet dealer!! Rule 2: Always use a Lawn & Garden belt, regardless of source. NEVER ever use an automotive, utility or fractional horsepower belt!!! Pay the difference and get a L&G belt, then you'll get your money's worth and not pour it down a "rathole". Myron B |
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Auto/fractional hp belts are not meant for the twists and turns around the mule drive and will get torn to pieces very quickly.
Get the OEM belt, it should last a long time. I had a 128 with tiller that I used for several seasons, with no visible wear on the belt. Keep the long belt tighter than the short one so that if something stalls the tiller, the short (cheaper) belt slips instead of the long one. |
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I live out in the middle of Nowhere SD. Our IH-Case dealer is not a Cub Cadet dealer. Is there a good place to order that long belt on line? I can't tell if the ones on line are IHC belts or not.
Thanks, Chris |
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I agree with using the proper belt my 8hp Troybilt tiller will eat a regular belt in no time, I use only TB belts on it.
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Remember to have the serial # for your tractor on hand when you order one, as there are two belts, and the dealer, or who ever most likely won't know the difference without it.
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Thanks for the info! My Neighbor is the parts man so I will call him tomorrow and see what he can come up with.
Thanks again, Chris |
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The only difference for the serial number would be narrow or wide frame right? I didn't have a chance to make it yesterday or get anything done, I got stuck working late. I am pushing trying to get the tiller going to so I get the garden done Saturday. |
On the way home yesterday I stopped by the case dealer and picked up a belt for my tiller..... Different guy than before so of course he said I needed a different size belt. I picked up one thats 143.8 inches accoding to the guy thats supposed to be the one I need, and it was the only size they had in stock, I figure I'd give it a try, might get to that tomorrow morning.
Last night I took off the snow blade, pulled off the cover from the rear to change out and put Hytran in it and started working on getting the tiller mounted. After getting the cover off and cleaning the old gasket while the fluid drained I tried to change the filter and realized I didn't have a filter wrench, let someone borrow it. So I took measurements on some other parts I needed. Then I cleaned up, went to Home Depot and picked up some all thread and steel so I can make a belt tensioner for the muler drive and get rid of the spring, Had to get 1" bolts to bolt the gear box on to the rear, and picked up a Clevis, and some quick links to use from my lift pin to the chains on the tiller since I do not have the adjuster T and rod and my pin has a horizontal hole in it. I'm working all day today then as soon as I get home I have to go to the other job so I won't get to work on it again until Saturday |
My IHC dealer ordered the belt for me and it was only $42.00. I'm impressed. I just gave him the part # from this site. For a belt that long I thought the price was more than fair.:IH Trusted Hand:
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I sure hope the one I ordered fits. I'm not sure they would want it back if it doesn't.
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Today I got everything on and gave it a test run, Didn't notice until I was done that I had a flat tire ha ha. I spent a few hours this morning getting everything on. The Belt from the dealer fit, I had to make a tensioner and rig up the lift chains. Lets see if the vides work
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/l...h_MAQ00005.jpg http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/l...h_MAQ00006.jpg |
Magnum,
Looking good! I'm glad you got your tiller installed and operational. |
I want to buy one of these but I have to get my CC running first.
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Looks good. Sure beats walking behind one of those hand held rock jumpers!
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The only one thing I had to come up with was the lift/depth control. My lift pin has the hole the wrong way and my till did not come with the lift bolt and T handle. I used a stainless clevis and a quick link and hooked that to the lift chains. I guess it works for now though |
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Mine was missing the depth control handle also. I just welded a 1/2" hut to the end of a 1" steel pipe, then made a top on a brake, and welded it on.
The only issue I have is I replaced the rotted spring on the belt tensioner, and it's not strong enough....and the belt tension just disappears pretty quickly, so I'm always reaching back to tighten it....I'll fix that this year. I need to see a working unit that is correct and see what I did wrong. I'm thinking of grinding in some teeth on the bottom of the handle so it tightens easily, but doesn't want to reverse without pulling the handle up. Anyone have suggestions? |
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Yeah I kept wondering why the right side of the tiller was sinking so much better, on the second pass it leveled out just fine. |
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Someone else said on here to keep the main long belt nice and tight and leave the shorter one a little looser in case of rocks or roots so the big expensive belt does not get damaged. Well I wound up just putting a cheap belt from autozone on the tiller pully as another way to make sure if something goes it's not the $80 belt. |
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