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How does this come apart? (snowblower)
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Time for cleanup of these implements (snowblower and blade).
Q1) what model snowblower is this? (last winter I had it mounted on an 1811 and it was all the 1811 could handle) Q2) How does the drive shaft (entire gear box) separate from the body? I want to get the body sandblasted and it needs to come apart, but before I start prying and beating on it I thought I would ask how it is supposed to come apart? (it does appear to have a bolt or shear pin on the inside where the impeller goes on, it might be a matter of pulling this and separating this way). Although taking things apart can be the fun part, it always gives me some apprehension not knowing when (or how) it might go back together... so lots of pics. :D |
I may be wrong but that doesnt look like any ih snow thrower that i even saw.
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Sorry, a better pic here (from Winter, and also shows the 784).
I thought the blower was likely a 450 or 550 or 551?? |
Im not to familiar with the newer snow throwers, hopefully someone who is can answer your question.
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My suggestion would be to go to the snow blower section in the tech library and see what you can find out
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=7435 |
Not a 100% sure how the impeller is atached but it has to come off first. I had mine apart about 5yrs ago. The impellar is on a splined shaft and could be pinned or have a thru bolt holding it on. :bigthink:
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That looks like an early 451.
Kelly is right, but I'll elaborate. To get the gearbox off: *Remove the augers and front worm gear. * Remove the blower *Remove the gearbox Sounds easy right? It's kinda hard..... Especially if it's never been apart. It'll be a fun project. :biggrin2: |
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I was afraid of something like that...... some of the bolts came free easily but some I just split the nut to get them free.
The good news is, it gets painted AFTER I pound the snot out of it getting it apart..... We will see. There is a shear pin/bolt through the auger. I think J-Mech has it right on the sequence. But I dont have a right angle spreader bar to get in there to push it apart (in fact I know of no such thing as a right angle spreader bar...) Stay tuned. |
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Sorry I can't be of more help but I've never had to work on one. Keep us posted. I'm sure some of the members can help you on this one. :beerchug:
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I've had them apart before. So have other members. Just ask if any questions. Matter of fact, I still have one apart...... Maybe it's a good time to fix it, like as in before snow flies. :bigthink:
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Bad news, it came apart easily!
There is a roll pin throughh the impeller. But that didn't matter. When I unbolted the gearbox it slidright off the splines.
The splines on the shaft seem 'ok' (needs closer inspection). But the mating splines on the ID of the impeller are shot. Completely. (Pics coming... As soon as my son finishes his video games) So I need either find a new impeller, or get creative on fixing the splines on the ID (too big for my lathe to swing and this would need to be in balance reasonably well, so just any old hack job won't do) Also the back side of the impeller was starting to rub the housing (some thrust load wear, or adjustment needed) It was time this thing got an overhaul. Q3). How hard is it to find a replacement impeller (and how $$$$) Q4). Instead of replacing, any ways to repairing a spline ID? |
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Found it:
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=28907 Check it out. He did a really good job! |
edit: nevermind.
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Here is what it looks like.
Its worth taking the gear box apart. And the worm drive also. And anything else while I have it apart. The worm drive seems to have some play in it (when I turn one direction, then back in the opposite direction, it rotates a bit before engaging). But one thing at a time. So far - Im for repairing it back to working order. |
Tear apart the worm drive. If it's original, it has an aluminum gear. If so, there is a replacement brass one. That's why mine's apart. I haven't put it back together yet.
Here's mine: http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...7&postcount=23 |
where did you source that worm gear from J-mech? I found one (>$100), which motivates me to do a close inspection first...! If it were more reasonable I would just replace while I have it apart.
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Off topic, just got out of the pool and you stars are into snow, it's JULY.:beerchug:
Jon Those are made to throw snow not crushed stone.:biggrin2: Gotta go the ice in my scotch is melting, not good it waters the good stuff down.:beer2: |
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http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trks...at=0&_from=R40 |
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I read a post a while back where a member here had tuned up his thrower in Fall and couldnt wait to try it out, so ran it through a pile of leaves. The report was it can blow leaves...
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The plot thickens...
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As usual, the deeper into it we go the more we find problems.
First, the housing is cracked. A little tricky to see in the first picture but its the black line where the bushing hub meets the main body (thats a hole, not paint flake). Im not sure the material (maybe aluminum), so not sure welding is such a good idea (a good corner for stress concentration, and if aluminum then it will soften when welding). It looks like it was worn through from the inside out. (ALL the bushings are completely shot) Maybe some epoxy would work though.... mickey mouse, but maybe. |
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Then some more shots. Im not sure how far the housing is - maybe new bushings will go in ok. The good news is that there was some grease in it! (cant take that for granted....)
The gear looks 'ok', in the sense that there are some teeth. But they are fairly sharp on the tops (I might expect a small flat on the tooth tip). Research to do on that. How hard is a decent replacement gearbox to find? And even if I did find one, I likely have to rebuilt it. Is this fixable? (on another front my new spline insert came so can weld that in). Some other issues but this gear box is the most serious at this point (although now Im inclined to take the other gear box apart as well). Im on a deadline before snow comes!! |
Can you circle the hole and the crack? I don't see it..... :Help:
That gear is shot. Replace it..... |
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try this one... (my editing is limited). My thinking is that this wore through from the inside, so even where not all the way through is likely thin.
running out, back later..... |
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Limited time for much research on this, but what I have found so far suggests the housing failure is due to the thrust bearing wearing out and the thing just eating up through the housing.
So a new housing assembly is needed. Plus all the bearings. And the gear. Feeling pretty pricey $$$$$ I better inspect the back gear box before going much further. If its in as bad of condition... well, there isnt much left after that. It might be that these front gear boxes were used on a lot of models so I might get lucky in finding one used. |
I see no reason that the hole in the housing couldn't welded as long as the internal machined areas are OK.
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But thats the thing - it wore through from the inside. I believe this internal shoulder holds a thrust bearing. Thrust bearing went and it went right on through the housing. (first pic is half 1, third pic is half 2 which is in better shape but still some damage on the surface where the bearing seats)
If I start welding then the internal shoulder would have to be re-machined. After getting it cleaned up (a little at least), Im wondering how a new bearing (bushing?) will seat. Maybe ok.... it only needs to sit in there. I have some aircraft epoxy that Im wondering wouldnt seal the crack and hold the bearing in place. (its an aluminum filled epoxy from masterbond, so I need to see how it will expand with temp in comparison to the housing). Have used it on a number of other things with good results. Although as I type this I think I saw a replacement housing for $45 ish. Better option. Im looking at a gear, the housing, the bushings, some misc spacers/washers (some are plastic) and it would be in decent shape again. Worth doing. Will inventory and source all these components and then move onto the other gear box. |
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the housing is the spendy piece.
Misc bearings and gear and seals is going to run around $100. Ok Then the housing (one side only) is another $100. Then a complete assembly all inclusive is just over $300. I havent taken it apart but from turning and trying to find backlash/bearing movement, the second gearbox seems in pretty good shape. So it comes down to what I want to do to this one to get it back going... decisions decisions. |
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In my case this is referring to speed at which I complete projects. Trust me, its not to early for me to be starting. :beerchug: |
I'm the guy who repaired the fan splines in the 450 snowblower last year. I know I have the gearbox half you need. If you want I can check and see if it is in good shape.
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I also am in the process of doing your spline fix, great job and thanks for posting!! :beerchug: |
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Well, this thing is in pretty bad shape. But a member here graciously sold me some parts that will work nicely. Still some pieces to order, but its going to go back together one way or the other. We will see how long it goes for - run it!
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Just a spray can - wasnt my first choice but I didnt have any auto paint in black and I wasnt going to cook these with powder because Im using the seals that came with it.
Pretty much every seal running surface is questionable... but back together it goes. |
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One last one. Need a couple seals, and bolt this back together and fill it...
Need to get this box put back together to move onto the other problem areas (there are many) A rational person would have just scrapped this thing. But I never was very smart.... ;) |
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