New to Pulling
 

I have an old 122 junker I want to rebuild into a puller. Planning to run in the stock class initially. Going to put in a fine spline axle and carrier, rebuild the engine and clutch. The local club doesn't allow much in the way of mods in the stock class. What will get me the best bang for the buck. Thanks

you will need wheelie bars, weight bars, shifter lock, and an adjustable drawbar . bar tires if you pull dirt and if they allow them. those things can eat up a budget pretty quick. if you are rebuilding the engine you could put a aftermarket cam in but that a couple hundred buck. check over your rules to see whats allowed. then start a budget of how much you want to spend. I've built engines for stock class tractors that cost over $2500 and there's guys pulling in stock class's that didn't spend $200 for the whole tractor.

lol I sell you mine. or should say I have one for sale

Already have the wheelie bars and adjustable draw bar. Thought about changing the cam but that is not allowed. Where can I get a shifter lock?

now rules like that are only as good as the guy teching the motor. not that I condone cheating but if the tech guy don't know how to use a degree wheel and a dial indicator it a useless rule. the majority of the clubs will pull the head. check bore stroke, valve size's, if its been ported and maybe look at the head to see if its been milled . some guys will look to see if the piston pops out of the block and if the carb has been tampered with. . very few will remove the cam cover and look for an aftermarket rod , adjustable cam gear ect. most clubs will check rpm.
actually if you take the time to check a large number of stock cams there it a plus and minus for cam grinds just like any other part. a friend of mine went through 2 5 gallon pails of cams that I have and put each in the block and dial indicated and degreed each cam. took him days, but he did find a few nice ones that would fit within the guide lines of his clubs rules.

Exactly why I was able to buy my red puller, the previous owner sick and tired of everyone wanting this taken apart and checked and this checked. He pulled just to have fun and it became not fun. Need to have a just for fun class.

That is why I want to run the garden stock class. I figure with a fresh engine and clutch, it will do pretty good. Here are the local rules. Based on this, what do I need to do to be competitive.

GARDEN STOCK
1. Stock garden tractors with no body alterations. DISCRETION OF
OFFICIALS.
2. 3600 RPM LIMIT
3. 1050 pound weight limit, 14 HP and under single cylinder (can run
OHV).
4. 23X10.50X12 Bar tires or turf tires (no professional pulling tires)
5. Stock carburetor with choke butterfly, no velocity stack allowed. Air
cleaner required. No intake standoffs allowed
6. Maximum .030" over bore. stock stroke.
7. Stock engine manufactured camshafts. (10 hp part in a 10 hp engine,
etc.)
8. Stock crank and rod (no pop up).
9. Stock head, no welding. Composite head gasket.
10. Stock type clutch and spring.
11. Stock transmission.
12. Stock pulleys on belt drive.
13. Pump gas and no electric fuel pump.
14. Stock coil. (no Bosch Blue coil)
15. Front weight bars are not allowed.
16. Must have wheelie bars if stock hitch is altered
17. Clutches and/or belts must be covered.

you definitely want to have ag tires for dirt tracks and turfs for blacktop. go to the max size the rules allow . you can advance the ignition timing and do a good 3 angle valve job. usually a stock piston and rod don't always come to the top of the block so if you assemble it, measure the difference you can take some off of the block. you can mill the head. just leave a bit of a lip on the head so they don't complain that you took to much off. it don't say you can't run a steel flywheel so I get 35 lb steel flywheel and hang that on there.

no one makes shifter locks for a number of reasons I won't go into. you can buy a shifter with a built in lock for $200 to 300 depending where you go.

Thanks. Will do.

Good luck with your pulling venture....Im just reading through here; Don, youre a beast!! Wish you were out beaverdam way, be nice to meet you...lot of knowledge..

I'd be temped to find a 14 HP OHV engine to run with those rules.

I put some thought into that when I read the rules. they are so much smaller in cubes and they have no torque. I think a flat head would do well against them stock.

a beast? not sure how to take that. I'll be in Burnett at the tractor show tomorrow. that's out your way. I'll be there pulling on sunday .

Still temping to me. I hear a lot about these Honda engines. It might be interesting.

most of the ones I've heard about were open rpm class . around here the only OHV engines you see are the Kohler V twins.

Im at burnett also, today, saturday..back corner with a cub and a case, , ill be walking around also...

Mike

mjsoldcub it was nice meeting you today and visiting for a while at the pull. your little guys IH hat was really cool.

Was very nice meeting you also, and thankyou!! Had to leave after the first mod pulled because he ended up getting a little heatstroke i think...the stuff you guys do just amazes me, i would definitely like to get my hands into it at some point!! Will you be going to edgerton?? IH is the feature this year....hope to see you again!!

I wanted to go to Edgerton but that's my weekend to work Saturday, so that scratched that plan.

A neighbor came by over the weekend and made a good offer on my 122 junker so I am going to sell it to him. That will leave me with my restored 124 to work with. It doesn't need much to get on the track. I already have a pulling hitch and wheelie bars.

Since I actually use this cub on weekends to move dirt and stuff on a piece of land I am clearing, I can't afford to have it break down. So, the plan now is to rebuild the clutch with a 6 pin driver, hardened drive shaft, and red spring. The stock driver will be converted to 6 pin. It will still be essentially stock so it may slide. While I am doing that, I will go ahead and install the fine splined axles and carrier I bought a while back. The worst that can happen is they move me up to the garden modified class.

Not necessary
 

I don't think the six pin driver and fine splines are necessary at all! I would agree with a red spring but I think your spending money that doesn't need to be spent. Been pulling a 104 for three years now with a red spring and a 10% overdrive and doing real well. Governor get your governor set right and you will do well! Most people don't know how to set a governor at all for pulling! My two cents!:beerchug:

or have the "good" governor weight assembly

Just move the spring down to the last hole to get more rpm! Lol

and then reset the stop so its at 3800. there is a setup I like to use that when they tack you it will read 3800 , 4000 or whatever. but when you get going down the track it raise's 200 rpm . there's also another setup I like to use that makes the governor very sensitive to any amount of load.

I actually like third or so hole up and get as much stretch on the governor spring as I can. It's the best when the tractor sounds horrible until 3/4 of the way down the track and then the governor takes over!:beerchug:

Do you use a pulling hitch or the stock hitch?

I build a pulling hitch that is adjustable, angle iron 1 piece of flat stock, and some 5/8 ready rod. Easy to build if I get a chance I will snap a pic

we did that back in the early 80's, then we got serious and figured some stuff out that wrks much better

Inform us Don, I would like to hear about it!:beerchug:

Just got into this sport a short time ago, I have a lot to learn and love to learn. I enjoy talking to guys with a lot of experience that are willing to share knowledge. There are a lot of tricks to this trade that you just need to learn from experience but when you have guys willing to help a young guy out it gets to be an even more enjoyable hobby!:beerchug:

ever do any clutch work on a snowmobile ?

Dang it Don now you got me thinking I am going to open my snowmobile hood and stare at the clutches to see how this applies!

I read up on the governor. It is set from the factory with the spring on the 3rd hole going up and 2nd hole going down. It also said that increasing the distance of the spring increases the sensitivity of the governor. What is the best way to go with the spring? 3/3, 4/3, etc. Is there a danger of making the governor too sensitive and over revving the engine? At what point would that be? 6/6?

I actually have a 10% overdrive in a junk rear end I bought. Does it make that big of a difference?

a 10 % od does nothing more than speed up all your gears by 1 tooth. nothing more nothing less. if you have a 16t second gear and install a 10% od you now have a 17t second gear

Well, I am ready to pull this weekend.

Good luck!

Pulled this weekend. It was a lot of fun. When I weighed in I started out 5 lbs overweight. Had to let some fluid out of the tires. First pull was really good. Made about 100 ft. But, they didn't turn something on in the sled and didn't measure it. Had to pull over. This time I forgot to wait for the flag man and jumped the gun. Still, it was a good day.

How do you get the engine to go over 3600 rpm. I have a #30 carburetor and it will go wide open. Do I need a cam or something?

What engine are you running? Also I would only raise the RPM if you have a steel flywheel. The stock cast ones can and will come apart.

It is a K301. The class I run allows 4000 rpm. The cast one should be good at that rpm.