Sediment bowl shut off
 

The sediment bowl shutoff needle is leaking on several of my cubs. I took one apart and used some graphite packing to replace the old packing. Worked well for about 3 weeks but it appears it did not hold up well to the gasoline and has started to leak even more than before. What do you guys use as packing to replace the old?

-Ryan

Replacement of the whole assembly. Napa sells them. They're about $25. You'll never get it to stop leaking, and they don't sell repair parts other than the screen and bowl gasket.

J-Mech is correct as usual. The part number is 7-02350 for the assembly from Napa. You can google the number and find it online http://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-7-0.../dp/B002EP9QEA for cheaper than Napa, but my Napa had it in stock and I didn't have to wait or pay shipping.

I have had great success using small o-rings ! not a leak yet !

I have 2 cubs that I just put in some orings. I used 2 orings per. I normally just replace it like Jmech said but I had one of my new ones start leaking so I tried this. One year later so far so good.

The o-ring idea sounds like a worth wile try. As to the NAPA one does this the same part, or just a cheep knock off?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cub-Cadet-Or...3D121456865019

If I might ask......
Is it really worth ordering something like that on E-bay to save at most $10, when you can just stop by a local parts store and get it? If there is an issue with the one you buy local, I'm sure they will replace it. If there is an issue with the one you get off E-bay..... HASSLE. For the life of me I don't understand why people are so eager to save a couple bucks.

J-Mech you make a good point. Sounds like I will stop by Napa :)

a) I understand. Some don't have the extra money to start with.

b) Some have the money but they want to learn something/try an alternate method.

c) Some people intensely dislike throwing away and usable part without making some attempt to repair it.

d) Many people are not members of the "throwaway" generation and can remember when money was very tight even if it isn't at the moment.

In my experience, repairing a part or substituting a part to see the effects can be viewed as a learning experience, if not an outright cost save. Of course, occasionally, you'll suffer a loss.

There is nothing any more rewarding to me (and others like me) to look at something broken and figure a way to fix it rather than simply replacing.

The old guy in the picture below was somewhat my mentor when I first started turning wrenches. He ran an auto repair shop and later became a Ferguson tractor dealer. A farmer would come in with something broken, no way he'd try to put on a new part if he could fix what was broken.

Times sure changed and so did the value of a couple bucks!:bigthink:

Walk-in price is $21.95 at my store, and I keep them in stock. Just ask and you can get 10% off that price, and that would pay for the tax. I carry Primeline stuff, its aftermarket but pretty good stuff usually.
If there is an independent parts store in your area, please give them a try before you order online.

O-rings might be $ 1.00

I would like to thank you for putting the sediment bowl part number in your post. It helps a LOT more than just saying "you can pick one up at XYZ Parts store." That way, when a person is looking for information and goes to search, the wheel doesn't have to be reinvented.

Many thanks to the guys who do the work for us. It takes time and sometimes parts are hard for us new guys to look up. As to the OP's question, do not buy those cheap ones on flebay. They leak at the on off thingy and are junk. And, I remember when a 100.00 bill was something, but not now. My wife says I still live in the 80's when it comes to the price of things. :bigthink:

Can someone give me some detail or point me to another post that details the repacking of that shutoff valve?

I would much rather fix what I have than replace a decent old part with a new one.... then again, might get a new one and still fix the old one to have a quick spare on the shelf.

Did I say lately that I LOVE this old 123?

Sure.... take the nut off, the valve out, remove old packing, install new, reassembly is reverse of disassembly. If you can find the packing.... By the way; by the time you buy packing, a gasket and a screen, you can buy a whole new assembly.

Thx.

What is this packing made of?

Most used a packing material. It was like a graphite coated compressed cork. I've put o-rings in them, and seen rubber used. I did a quick search to see if I could even find a "rebuild" kit for the valve. I didn't find one. Only thing readily available is the gasket, screen, bowl, and bowl holder. Or you can get the top piece, or a new assembly. Once more, I will state, it isn't worth the time to find parts and repair the old one.

Thank you.

Wow. I have used leather for the packing. That works the best, and no leaks ever again. Can't believe no one knew that here.

Can you describe what you used, and how it all goes together?

You know, I have been searching a lot today on the lost subject. I know for a fact I repacked the sediment bowl on my model 71, and it never leaked. But, I have an old spare that I'm tempted to go out tonight and take a look at it. This has been a subject of OCC often. I apologize. It's right on the tip of my hat,....

My local NAPA stores (three I use for different things), stock almost nothing and dont have great hours. It comes from regional warehouse, so I always get the response: we can have it for you tomorrow. Maybe its a MA thing.

Amazon prime is two days and I dont have to find the time in the schedule to go to the NAPA store. So I end up ordering most things at night from the computer.

I have o rings in my 127 now and no leaks. I have seen the leather packing used also.
I know what is being said about Napa stores. They seem to cater more to the garages than the diy guys.
I order parts online sometimes but i dont like doing it. I like to be able to touch and look closely at what im buying before buying it.

You can try a plumbing supply store or ask a plumber if you know one.
We used packing on shutoff valves to keep them from leaking.
Here is one with the part # on it maybe you can find one.

I've been a mechanic for about 20 years....and owned my own shop nearly 15 of them. Satisfaction for me was a correctly repaired problem in a timely manner. Swapping new parts is usually the fastest way.... and new parts generally guaranteed to work the longest. Hacksaws and hand files are for old men with too much time to kill. Sawsalls and sanders for people in a hurry.

I'd love to be able to buy rebuild kits for sediment bowls---that worked. I've seen several that had the packing nut so tight you couldn't turn the shutoff--usually this is on farm tractors. I don't think I have ever seen a cheap sediment bowl worth having, its going to be a problem--sooner rather than later.

Thank you for that.

I picked up the new Prime Line filter bowl assembly #7-02350 today. It looks good, and with it I could inspect the shut-off valve. This one has a rubber washer on the stem, with a beveled edge away from the bowl. I think this will be good, and I can certainly fix the original bowl's valve.