Q/L Headlight spin
 

[IT might sound like a non issue but I cant stand my 1650 looking all crooked eyed like it just got into fight. Just wondering what you guys have done to keep them eyeballs straight. I straighten em in their groove like I think they should be 5 minutes later google eyed

If the light is spinning in the grommet, there is a tank on the light that has to be lined up with the groove in the grommet. If the grommet is spinning in the panel, then about the only thing you can do is glue (use weatherstrip adhesive) it in place.

I have had them in those grooves they still come out .They seem loose. The grommets are just supposed to squeeze the light. No other parts involved. I thought I might be missing a clip, spring or something.

Nope. That's all there is to it. If they are spinning in the grommet, then weatherstrip adhesive the light to the grommet. That's about all the ideas I've got. :Huh:

Actually the grommet stays put and the light bulb spins. It seems the screen is moving ,vibrating quite a bit.

Yeah, that's what I said. The light bulb is spinning in the grommet. So.... glue it.

Thanks Jon for answering an iNsOMniAc. Its not a giant problem ,I know, just like things at right angles and hate using glue.

I hate my lights crooked too. None of them are, and if they get that way I fix them. I just don't have any that spin like your talking about. Oh, every now and again I have to straighten one. Like maybe once a year or something because it moved just a little and it bugs me. Only other thing would be replace the grommet.

I wonder if po doesn't have correct bulbs. I didn't look but I bet theres a number somewhere or dimension. This forum is so large I read for hours to find an answer. But I enjoy getting sidetracked

:bigthink:
Once you get the lights aligned, put a "touch" of hot glue between the bulb and grommet in couple of spots.

Just a dab or 2 or 3 of black silicone gasket sealer should do the trick. Do it on the back side and no one will see it.

Glue it is:Thanks for your input

I like that idea! :beerchug:

I feel your pain, mine did the same thing.I tried the glue as Roland suggested but the under hood temps melted the glue.I finally just got myself 2 hose clamps and tighten them around the rubber grommets (so to speak) and that solved the issue for me.Now granted when you lift the hood you can see the hose clamps but its sure better than lookin at lopsided headlights from the outside.This was only an issue on my 1200, my 2072 has never had that problem.

Different styles of light fixtures. One has grommets, the other has a clamp.

Didn't think about a heat issue.They do make high temp silicone,used for fire stop in the trades,I think I will try that.

It doesn't get hot enough under the hood to need high temp silicone. If you going to use RTV, regular will handle the heat. I know for sure it doesn't get as hot under the hood as it does on the engine itself. Regular RTV will handle the heat. I still say weatherstrip adhesive. Silicone is messy, and I'm not convinced it will stick to the glass and the rubber. Plus takes a while for it to set. Weatherstrip adhesive is fast setting. Minutes.

Jon are you are talking about auto door weatherstriping adhesive. The stuff that's yellow.

They have it in black too, but yes.

OK that sounds like the winner. black auto weatherstrip adhesive it is. might even have some in the barn in any case I thank you Jon and all the guys who posted for there input. Im doing it today and let you know how it turns out.:beer2:

If that don't work for you this is what I did.

Attachment 59153

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Crooked lights make me crazy... The sad thing is that everyone here knows that it doesn't take much to make me crazy anyway.

I was bringing home a Cub one time that had a crooked light in it, seeing it in the mirror made me nuts, so I had to stop on the way home and fix it.

I also have one Cub that had one headlight that would spin, I tried the hoze clamp trick but the clamp soon vibrated loose. I then used "contact cement" (gotta clean the glass and the rubber really well first and follow the instructions on the cement container) haven't had any trouble with it since.

Besides it looking funny and bugging the crap out of ya There is another side effect. The lights do not just shine the same amount in each direction. They shine out to the sides more than up and down. I looked up the number of the lights i put in mine last night and it gave a spec on wide and how high they shine. Just a thought.:bigthink: o and it does bother the crap out of me when they are not straight.:bash:

Silicon is a mess to remove, you better use weather striping like some have already suggest, I'm testing many option this year among them a set of PAR 36 with replaceable 100W H3 bulb (200W) those are really powerful but I have to power them with a auxiliary battery, the stator can't take it. One of them is moving around like the old sealed halogen use to and yes this is bugging me a lot!:angry:

I can but don't glue them because I still need to test a pair of PAR 36 30W Led beam, I already got Roberson base with Led bulb and original Bargman lens for the rear, those look OEM but are a lot more bright.

Anybody replace the rubber holders?
wondering if new fresh ones would be better @ holding the lights?
I see where ccspecialties has a "set" or repos. but don't know if that is
for 2 of them, I would think so, but don't know if that would solve the problem??

If its the rubber holder turning use a long staple to hold it to the grill like I did. If the light bulb its self is turning use some two way tape in the channel between the bulb and rubber holder. I'm going on two years now with straight lights.

kostendorf -that's how my problem started tractor was covered in my barn. When I took off cover right light was popped out off screen. I put it back in and straightened screen best I could, put in grommet and didn't want the grommet to pop out So I used an idea I saw on this forum I cant remember who posted about the wire thru the grommet it could have been you. I saw your picture after that fact on this thread but it does work for holding grommet to the screen.

Well I used Jons idea using auto weatherstrip adhesive,Jon when you first posted that I thought you meant door weather adhesive strips for home,that was my mistake. Anyway I bought 3m super weatherstrip adhesive, in black,Wish I would have known that it wasn't just in yellow a while ago restoring my new Yorker .Any way that stuff is stringy ,kinda like hot mozzarella cheese,after getting that stuff all over my hands and beer can and a little on the light and grommet the job was done.Let it sit a day, ran it for about 10 minutes and holds great so far. Waiting for a big snow and heatin this baby up.Only time will tell.
By the way my lights are 1/ge 4411 and1/wagner 4411 are these ok [ looked them up manual says they are correct#]
Sorry about the long post
Thanks guys .....Hank

All PAR36 are 4.5 inch beam, OEM one on the Cub are PAR36 4411 12V 35W screw terminal unit. Here a link to help you find substitute.

http://www.brite-lite.com/Products/Sealbm.html

PS: to find the diameter of a beam just divide his PAR number by 8.

Guys what is supposed to hold the headlight screen on besides the hinge and the center bracket . Mine is just bent a little around the side . Looked it up doesnt seem like theres any hardware besides that.If I should start anew thread let me know. Just wanna finnish my girls upper torso

Napa had the best price on them, less than $8.00 each on the ones I bought last winter

Hank, there is supposed to be a spring clip to push the screen against the nose frame, secured by the same bolt in the center that holds the hood to the nose piece. Same bolts also holds the wire clip if you have headlights

Problem is, it only secures the center of the screen leaving the upper corners to flex. I used a couple short pieces of 1/8" or so vacuum hose spilt down the center around the edges, seemed to help some if you bend the screen a little so the hose stays in place against the nose casting. A little dab of silicone (aka blue/black glue) keeps the hose in place.

So let me get this right .The bolt in the middle holds 1/2 in of the screen on top, hinge at bottom and pressure against the bend of the sides were supposed to hold it in place [not trying to be sarcastic ,every bodys pics look so tucked in at the corners i thought I was missing something]