Adding hydraulics to 1811
 

I picked up a dual hydraulic valve and all the hoses, and want to add this to my 1811.

Whats the minimum tear down to make this a rational install? I would like to avoid a total tear down right at this point in time.

If I was doing it I would pull the hood, engine, fire wall and gas tank.

Yep, what Sam said. The pressure and return lines to the hydro are also different on a dual spool because the lines enter the side of the valve body so you're going to have to fab something up there too if you didn't get the lines with the valve.


The 1811
Attachment 59196


The 1812
Attachment 59197

Thanks guys.

I do have the lines.

Was wondering if I could get away without pulling the engine. But I think Sam has it down. And the fenders need to come off as well to get to the hydro lines (which need swapped)

So add it all up and its going to take more than an hour.... A weekend for me.

You should be able to just pull the tunnel cover off and change the lines.

Make sure to take some pictures. I will be swapping one at some point.

you dont have to pull the fender pan off. But the engine should come out it would make it much easier to put the valve and lines it. I did that last winter. while I was at it I pulled the shields off the engine and cleaned the fins out. Good thing I did it was packed with crap and a mouse nest.

I managed to get it far enough in pieces I think I can get to it all now. It was more than I expected, would have preferred to only take a few pieces off.

ok, not really. That pic is a different project. But for those wanting reference pics here are a couple more. I will try to take step by step when I tear into the real project.

(you see the dilemma, I can either put this tractor back together, convert the 1811 to dual hydraulics, or just go without angling the blade this winter (or gads, get off the seat and change the angle manually....)

One little tip, remove the plate that the engine mounts to. Bolt it back on the engine. Much easier to install the engine that way. It's only held in the frame by six 3/8" bolts.

Did managed to get the hydraulic blade cleaned up. It had been used pretty hard - there were a couple spots where the PO had welded and it needed the welds ground off and redone. Some thick paint and looks ok now.

It cleaned up ok. For a wear strip its getting a piece of stainless bolted to the bottom (I like to be able to run it directly on the asphalt drive - if I dont get it scrapped clean it packs and builds up an ice layer)

What it looked like previous. It did get sandblasted and the smaller pieces got a zinc epoxy powdercoat primer with powdercoat color over that. The blade got Martin Senour with hardener. We will see how it holds up.

Some of the pics look like the paint is dinged but its not, just some dirt/grease speckles I managed to get all over it putting it back together.

Notice the bracket where the lift arm goes. Its a slot, but then has another small piece that bolts across it to hold the lift rod in. Its what came with it, but I have no idea if its the right piece or not (although I do know it works).

Thanks Sam. Definitely the preferred method over what I did....

Another reason why we need to have 4-5-10 tractors. If you only had one, you would learn all these things and then wouldnt have anything to try out the learning on. So its taking me 2 or 3 just as a learning curve. (my wife isnt buying this, but its my story...)