IH tiller
 

The local CC parts collector offered an IH tiller for $350 complete w/gearbox. I'm not a collector, I wanna use it. How well do these work? I am mostly concerned about that long belt under the tractor coming off or getting stuff stuck in it and tossing the belt.
I had intended on buying a front tine tiller and converting it for use on the rear of the tractor. Would be cheaper and have its own engine, but that has it's drawbacks also.

I had a tiller on a 1250 with both extensions for a short period (stupid me for getting rid of it, but that's another story :bash:) and absolutely LOVED it. I never once had the belt come off the pulleys, which seems to worry a lot of people. I was able to set it to its lowest setting and go to town. The only exception was rough ground with large sections of concrete (unbeknownst to me) in it. I started shallow then with each successive pass went a little deeper. If you're worried about toughness, I'll say this; that tiller ate up 3x3 sections of buried concrete and came out the other side asking for more. They really are well built pieces of IH history. I'd recommend getting one, I know I would if I had a chance :IH Trusted Hand:

Well, guess I need to rat-hole some cash then...sounds like they are pretty good.
This fella also sed they worked great, he had one mounted on the back of a 128.





I'll need another tractor to mount this on, right?:bigthink: lol

Get the mule drive with it. I am finding out there are differences between the tiller mule drive and the mower mule drive.

I bought a basket case 1450 with a #2 tiller January this year. It didn't come with the mule drive. The PO tried to modify the bracket for use with the mower mule drive. It didn't work.

The mule drives for 44" decks have an angle to the pulleys to accommodate the offset center pulley of the deck. The angle will eventually shred your expensive long belt. The pulleys are heavier on the tiller mule drive too. Mower pulleys are stamped and tiller pulleys are solid steel. Check it out: http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...+drive+pulleys

Mule drive thread: http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=31284

I picked up a mule drive for a later tractor that has straight pulleys. My plan is to rework it for my tiller.

HTH

Bob

Also make sure the right angle box comes with it.

You will also need the rear lift to raise and lower it. If you do NOT have hydraulic or electric lift, a helper spring is a must.

I have a tiller with one extension that I use behind my 125. It works great. I put my next door neighbors garden in the other year and used it to cut right thru the lawn.

How does it work? short answer- You hook it up, drop it in the dirt running, and it throws it everywhere.

:biggrin2:

I use a no. 2 tiller behind a 782 and it's awesome. Highly recommend getting one. The belt was around $100 from the dealer, got one for $30 from vbelts4less.com. I'd scarf it up if price is right. Put some hours on mine and never had any belt issues, even in really hard ground

I have 3 tillers, two of them on gear drives (100 and 128) and one on a hydro (129) they are fantastic and I love them.

I do like the using them on the gear drives better than the hydro though.

Be sure to get the belt guide that bolts to the tranny.

You should definately get it if you want to use it. I have a tiller on my 149 and it works great. I have a 2800 sq/ft back yard garden that I feed my family with and I couldn't do it without this machine.
I got it about two years ago and the first time out it broke a chain. I tore it down and completely rebuilt it and it's been a work horse ever since. I got the replacement chain from TSC and new bearings from an internet bearing distributor. There is a big gasket that goes around the entire drive housing, you can just make one with gasket material from Grainger.
Make sure you take lots of pictures of the entire dissasembly process so you have reference for re-assembly.
PM me if you have any questions and good luck, spring is just around the corner!

Looks like we are into re-build the tiller season.
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=36411
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=36378
:beerchug:

Going Sunday after church to fetch this #2 tiller, I'm told it turns but is loose and needs bearings. Mule drive, box and tiller included. 100 mile round trip to the next county. Pics late Sunday!

Would you mind posting the part # belt you bought?

Can someone tell me what model this tiller is? Also will it fit on my 1450.

http://providence.craigslist.org/grd/4833579878.html

Looks like a #2. If it is I have a #2 behind my 1450. Do you have a 3 point hitch? You'll need one to use a tiller.

Nope I guess I will need to get one. I thought I saw a vender on this site that was selling them but I can't seem to find them now.
Thank you for the quick reply.

You may be thinking of a "Sleeve Hitch Adapter" a three point hitch is what a Sleeve Hitch Adapter hooks to. A tiller fastens to a three point hitch without a Sleeve Hitch Adapter.

This might answer some questions for you, if you already knew these things, disregard this post.
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=4

I thought the tiller mounted to the 90 degree pulley and the pulley mounted to the rear end. Then you would lift it with the pin in the hitch? My cub has a hitch in the back.

If you have a NF, these are the pieces you need ( WF rear lift similar )

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...h_DCP_5050.jpg
click for larger pic

Starting on the left, you have the rear lift, the tiller gear box mount and the tiller itself.

I have the hitch already so all I need with this tiller is the mule drive,90 degree pulley, tiller, hitch pin and belt? The seller said he has all these parts. Do you think it is worth $400?

$400 is a fair price if everything is good. The IH belt is $80, the rear mount with the gearbox is about $150-$200 and about the same for the tiller. Of course some of the members here may have a complete tiller for a little less but then they have to be close enough to get it. Shipping eats up savings on the good deals.

I can make the lift pin, the tiller adjustment handle and the threaded rod if you need replacements.

I think I am going for it, but I will have to wait till after this next snow storm we are getting another 8 to 12 inches here in Massachusetts. I will definitely keep you in mind if I need any of those parts.
Thanks for all the information you provided.

Scored the #2 today, gearbox/ plate included. Missing lift handle and belt guide, tines fair. Needs the lower bearings replaced, gearbox was smooth tight and clean, full of grease, and now installed. PBBlaster'ed everything tonight.

pics of tiller rusty as all my stuff seems to be....

more pics of tiller

Looks pretty good, congrats. You'll be real happy with how it works.

I'll be needing a handle etc. soon, maybe a shaft, the tines are pretty loose coming out of the box. I'll know in a few days.
Overall I'm pretty excited. Was 100 mile round trip to the local collector.

Got new bearings coming, now I'll need a mule drive and belt. I guess I will try a Gates AX144.

Did it come with a pulley belt shield?

No, no belt shield. I asked about it, but he didn't have it(or he already sold it to someone else). No belt guide up underneath either. Cub stuff is few and far around here.

Got a Dr appt today, will stop by China freight for a long puller like bugjunkie used. Tines have been PB soaking since Sunday.

One side of tines gave up tonight, tines and excluder are off the right side(upside down so left here in image). Soaking the other side now.

What's an excluder? :bigthink:
:Unknown::Unknown::Unknown:

It's basically a cover or casing with a felt "seal" it helps to keep dirt and foreign material out of the bearing.

That's what the breakdown calls it, excluder-was on there pretty good for having no real attachment once the nuts were off-just 40 yrs of rust Tines was a bear to get off.

Got 2 lower bearings from my Timken supplier in Memphis, a sheet of cork gasket material on the way also. Still pulling/beating this thing apart...it's like this thing has been dragged around in dirt all its life and left out in the rain.

More tiller progress, the bottom of the shield was pretty well pickled so it got POR-15. Inside the case was dry. Nasty job.

I'm $146 deeper (all six bearings) into this thing, got all the bearings from my Timken supplier-the uppers feel OK for the most part but I'm doing them all.
I will replace the rusty bound up #60 chain but the #50 chain is fine. Got a quart of 00 grease from NAPA-pretty bad to have to go to another store to buy parts but my guys don't carry it and won't ship it UPS or Fedex-it's haz-mat.
If anyone needs bearings, the lowers are Timken #G1104KRRB, the middles are #G1100KRRB, and the top are #G1012KRRB

Looks like your having all the fun you can stand. Ask me how I know. From the looks of it the 400 is easier to work on, can't wait till I need to open the chain case on my 1A.