1914 Super GT Homecoming
 

Hi everyone.
I just joined the forum just for the chance to share my excitement and hopfully meet some great people. What am I excited about? In a couple of weeks I am bringing home an old friend....a Cub Cadet 1914 Super GT. This tractor was first owned by the old IH mechanic who lived next door when I was a kid. Growing up, he was like my grandpa and gave me an education every time I got to turn a wrench with him. I was in first grade and still remember the day he brought it home. It was a beautiful thing. At the ripe age of 7, he decided that I was old enough to learn how to run the tractor, even tho he let nobody else touch it. In 1997 he passed away, leaving the tractor to my Dad. It served us well until a couple of years ago when my Dad moved to a place with a small yard and the 50 inch deck was just overkill. For the last few years it has sat in the garage.
I got a call that my dad was going to sell the tractor, and I quickly interviened...with the help of my Mom. It is funny that at almost 30 years old, I am still able to pull out the "I am telling Mom!!" line. At any rate, he realized that my intentions with the tractor was to preserve the memory of Al (the guy next door) and hopefully be able to pass the tradition down to my own son.
Being a info nut...I am trying to find out as much as I can about this machine. I am finding it quite difficult. I know a little...that it was produced by CCC. It is the yellow and white version of the 986...i think. Apparently this machine is quite rare, especially with the rear PTO. I still have the owners manual, and the original recipt from when it was purchased. Does anyone have any further info on this machine...such as how many were produced, what paint colors it requires....at this point....really anything would be great.

Thanks in advance for any replies.

That's awesome to get something that's from your past. The 1914 is pretty rare. It was built in 1985 and 86. It should be cub cadet yellow/white. If the paint is in decent shape i'd leave that alone. It should have the Onan twin cylinder 19.9 hp engine in it unless it was replaced. The 1914 was a direct replacement of the 986 (982 with rear hitch and pto). I believe this website has the service manual for it probably some other good info as well.

http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s...ngterm/tb3.jpg

Basicly it's the 982/986 with an aluminum rear and front hydraulics IIRC.


Scott

:WWP::WWP:

Love to see more and hear more about this one!!!:beer2: Lucky guy to have laid your hands on this one finally!! Congrats!

Neat story super1914. I got my 100 from my dad when he talked about selling it. I asked him what he wanted for it and he told me to load it up and take it. He bought it back in the early '80s when I was a little kid.

Thanks everyone for the reply's. I am pumped up to get it home...even tho my wife is unaware that it is going to take up a lot of space in the garage.

The tractor is in immaculate shape. it has NEVER sat outside and was cleaned every time it was used. The only paint that is in rough shape is the deck which is pretty scraped up on the non discharge side. I am planning on re-building the deck when i get it home. As far as i can remember it has never been serviced wiith the exception of the main belt from the PTO being replaced and the bearings occasionally greased.

One thing I forgot to mention is that the machine jumps when you go forward. You have to push the drive control lever up about 25% of the way up before it jumps into forward motion. You can pull the lever back to creep slowly but it doesnt seem right that it jumps like that. I have been told that it could just be low on trans fluid. To check the fluid, does the machine need to be running like an auto trans on a car? Any other ideas as to why this could be jumping like this?

If anyone needs me, I will be digging for more info in the site!!

:Welcome2:

Great story looking forward to pictures and more info when you get it home.

I thoroughly enjoyed your story! Can't wait to see the pics of your 1914. :beerchug:

Great story, and look forward to the pics. Also, if you have the original reciept, what did it cost??? Do a good maintenance on it (oil change, filter, plugs, set points, drain the old gas, change the Hytran & filter in the rear end) and see how she runs. Onan parts are still available thru Cummins and also some internet sites. www.onanparts.com and www.jacksmallengines.com Good Luck and post those pics!

like the others said. I'd changed out the hydro fluid with a correct replacement fluid, filter. The lurching affect on the hydro could be due to some loose linkages under the driveshaft cover. Do a search here on the site about the hydro trunnion springs. They can cause problems also and are easy to replace with the fender pan and driveshaft cover off. These supers are hard on the aluminum rear where it mounts to the frame. Make sure and check all your mount bolts out. Don't be suprised if you have a few missing it's kind of normal if you don't keep an eye on them. I'd definitely take all the paneling off and fender pan and give it a good once over inspection.

Neat story!. Looking forward to seeing pictures.:beerchug:



Scott: do you remember where you got your seat with armrests?
Thanks.

Great advice from everyone! Its much appreciated. Yes i do have the origninal recipt, however it is still located with the tractor over 200 miles away at my parent's place. If memory serves, the tractor, 50c mower, and 42 inch rear PTO tiller it was over 10k...but dont quote me on that. I talked to my Dad yesterday and he put a charge on the battery, put in new gas and it cranked for about 4 seconds and fired up and ran like a dream after not running for over a year. I dont think my new truck would do that! :)

It looks like the homecoming will be around May 1st if all goes well. Memorial day at the latest. I cleared a spot out in the garage tonight. I will be sure to post more info when i get it.

Don't be alarmed if it starts running rough. Since it's been setting so long there could be gunk in the carb which may eventually start clogging the jets etc.. Nothing a good carb cleaning can't fix.

I love these stories. Thanks for sharing and good luck!

It is finally home!
 

So last night at about 10 pm we rolled into the driveway. I had to keep her on the trailer until this morning since I didn't want to disturb the neighbors. I put a new battery in it and it popped right off. Took it for a little spin around the yard and brought it back to the shed for a good bath. I pressure washed 20 years worth of grease and grime off of her and found some minor problems that thanks to all of you, I was able to fix/tune up pretty quickly. When I engaged the mower it was discharging the battery so I adjusted the air gap and it appears to have fixed that problem. I pulled off all of the engine shrouds and washed down all of the fins on the motor and whatever else I could. I found the starter wire was sitting kind of weird so i gave it a bump and it fell right off! Got that fixed up pretty quickly. Unfortunately the throttle cable snapped while I was messing around. Not a big deal since it was some after market thing that was thrown on there. I will be running to the cub dealer tomorrow to order one along with a rear end gasket. Still have to remove the tunnel plate and fenders to clean off the tranny...hope to get to that this week.

One thing that I found was that the right side rear wheel was covered in dirt which appeared to be adhered by a thin layer of oil. I am assuming that it is HyTran, but I don"t know where it is coming from....I am not low on fluid and it has not been topped off for many years according to my Dad so at least whatever is leaking....it isn't too fast. I hope to be able to post some pics tomorrow if I get some time. Too dark right now!

That greasy wheel is probably from a leaky axle seal. It's not a big deal to replace if you're changing the Hytran...I'd change both sides while you're in there.

Here is the first pic I have of the 1914. It was taken from my camera phone and it was a little foggy out this morning, so forgive the quality.

WOW, That's a GOOD looking tractor. She's a butey.

The greezy wheel would be the seal at the end of the axle tube, I just replaced mine, Very simple.

Just Block up the rear end really good. Take off wheels. remove the rear cover, let all the oil drain, then pop off the E ring that holds the axle shaft in the differnential. The axle will slide out, Just use a screw driver to pop out the old seal, then replace. Becareful of the bearing at the end. Don't nock them out.

If you really want to do an overhaul. I'd replace the gaskets that go imbetween the axle tube, and the diff housing. Just undo all the bolts, and the axle tube will pop off. Rince & repeat.

Just did it on mine, and she's working BEAUTIFULLY.

Keep us up.
COdy

Good looking 1914, you got there. :ThumbsUp:

Looks really sharp!

Good Luck With It,
Bob

Great lookin 1914!!!:beerchug:

That is nice, real nice.

Scott

Sorry for not posting any more pics yet. Just haven't had time. By the response, I might be taking some portraits with my cellphone camera. It perfectly hides all of the nicks and scratches. :) I just ran to the local cub dealer and ordered a bunch of parts. Throttle cable, rear end gasket etc. I also ordered up the new axle seals and bearings as well as the gaskets between the axle carriers and the tranny like Elephants1772 suggested. Only a couple of bucks and "I was going to be in there anyway."

Question: If i pull the axle tubes off and replace all of the seals and bearings in them, do I have to preload/check backlash when I re-assemble? I have the service manual but I am confused if I am supposed to do that just for taking off the axles. :bigthink:

As long as you do not remove the carrier you should be good. I am replacing the axle tube seals ( inner and outer ) and the outer axle bearings on mine. since I did not remove the carrier it should not have moved,so it should be fine.


JOE

Thats what I was hoping for. Is there a trick/tool for removing the outer axle bearings? I see in the service manual it shows a slide hammer with fingers. Tools I don't have and would prefer not to purchase.

I used a socket and long extension that was just smaller than the shoulder the bearing seats on. Then gave it a couple wacks, they came right out.


JOE

Or if you can't do the socket, I'd use a punch, and jsut make sure you don't get it in a bind, Tap in circles, going round and round.

Yea, while your doing it a once over, might as well do it right.

That's why I changed the seal, plus mine were leaking. :P

Thanks
Cody

I use a slide hammer to pull the seals, and then I knocked out the old bearings with a socket, pushing them through to the inside. I obviously did this with the axle tubes removed.

FYI, it may be a three-ring circus to get that axle tube off with the rear in the tractor. I think Elephants1772 may have had an easier time doing it because his tractor's frame is pretty badly broken. The easiest thing to do would be to just pull the rear.

Matt, I was looking it over tonight and it doesn't appear to be too difficult to remove the tubes....but that is coming from absolutely no experience. I talked to a friend of mine who's father in law worked at OTC in town here for 30 plus years. He was going to ask if he had the puller tools to pull the bearings with a slide hammer. If i can't acquire the tools, what is so difficult about pulling the axle tubes? I am concerned about removing the rear just because I don't have the tools to set the preload...or the knowledge. Anyone want to come to Minnesota to help? :)

No preload or none of that....just pull the axles......

Curious? what's wrong with your bearings? Are they bad?

The one item that will likely outlive you and it seems there is a rash of folks lately that think they need to change them...

Why are you not changing your carrier or inner bearing too while you are at it?

Scott


Edit....

BTW I've got 236K miles on the axle bearings in my truck.....still ain't givin me no troubles....

Almost all the major auto stores have loaner tools and slide hammers with bearing attachments are common....probably loaned out the most of all thier tools....

I'm not suggesting HF....disposable junk....but you can probably get a slide hammer kit for under $20.


A seal gone bad does not necissarily mean the bearing is bad. Seals wear out, dry out, springs break....

Scott

super1914-

The carrier bearing retainers stick out from the housing a bit. Removing the 6 bolts that hold the axle tubes on would allow you to simply pull them off if the rear was out, but with it in the tractor, you'd have to move the axle tube down a bit and then pull it off to get it past the frame, and I don't know if there is enough room.

I'm sorta with murphycc, you probably don't need to replace them. I am putting a cast iron rear in my 1872, and it is getting new axle bearings because the axles I pulled out of the CI donor rear were scored slightly where the bearings ride, for no apparent reason. I'm replacing them just to be safe.

Slide hammer: I didn't have the right-sized one when I pulled axle seals today, so I made one...they aren't in there that tight. All you need is a chunk of threaded rod about 2' long and 3/8" in diameter, 4 nuts, a piece of heavy pipe that fits over the rod, and then two fender washers, one that can't fit inside the pipe, and another that is < 1" in diameter to get under the seal. Assemble onto the threaded rod in this order, from top to bottom: 2 nuts (tighten against each other), thick washer, pipe and then at the bottom, nut, washer, and nut.

SCOTT,
I am putting new bearings in mine. Simply because they were only $5-$6 a piece. It is apart, I am in there, There cheap,and I will never have to do it again. As for the carrier and inner bearing,they look and feel good. The outer bearing is the one that sees more of the weight and torque load from the use of the machine anyways.

Also, I have a 2002 dodge with a Dana 80 (full floating) rear end in it. It has 54,000 miles on it and is on it's second set of axle bearings. The first set wore so bad they trash the axle shafts. I think they had a hardness issue. So, just saying for $10-$12 why not.


SUPER 1914,
If you are putting new seals in, then just grab the old ones with some channel locks or similar and yank them out.

JOE

Joe,

I was on a Jeep forum recently and was reading about Dana rears and the guys were complaining about Dana in general not being what it used to be...

You may well have an issue with your truck's rear but 98% of rear drive cars and trucks live out there useful life on one set of axle bearings. Of all things to wear out on a Cub axles bearings are probably the last thing to go...that's really all I wanted to point out.

If you and Matt are there, particularly with Matt going through the entire rear as he is....then I agree, why not?

I'm also coming from the perspective of being nickle and dimed straight to the poor house....$6 here and $12 there and $100 over there.....poor house, that's where I'm living at the moment.

Scott


Edit:

2 bearings, $20
2 Seals, $ 14
2 gal Hytran, $40
1 rear gasket, $8
1 Filter, $13

Total, $95



Suddenly it ain't so cheap to change out a seal...



Joe,

murphycc@yahoo.com

SCOTT,
thanks I will be getting in touch.





JOE

My thoughts are similar. I look at it as, if i have to go back in to replace a bearing, I am losing time and money for those parts for a second time. If i can replace them all at once, I am out 95 bucks once and won't have to think about it for a while.

So it sounds like I can keep the tubes on while I pull the outer seal and bearing. I purchased the inner seal (#4 in the diagram). Its another one of those "while I am in there" type of things. I am assuming that I have to remove the tube for that gasket as well. Perhaps I am getting too ambitious with this project and should just leave the tubes on and pull the bearings and seals with a "rented" slide hammer. it might just save me a lot of work and worry for nothing. If I don't do the #4 gasket, i am only out a couple bucks.

Save your money and do NOT rent a slide hammer. A pair of channel locks or similar pliers will get the seal out. Grab the inside and outside of the seal through the hole were the axle goes,and yank,twist, pry it out. Who cares if you ruin it,your putting a new one in.

Then use a socket on an extension and a hammer to tap the bearing out.

If you have the inner seal (#4) already, then just take the tubes off and do it.



Joe

Plus, Your changing the oil, so why not change all the oil. When I pulled my tubes, there was probably, Solid water, so that's just my though, While you've got it all out, why not do it, instead, of redoing it all in 2 years, or when ever.

Just my thoughts
Cody

Take my advice and pull the rear if you want to pull the axle tubes off. That'll also give you a chance to inspect the driveshaft coupler on the input shaft of the trans, which is a problem area on the supers. If it wobbles, it needs replacement.