The Super 1572
 

I decided it was finally time that the 1572 got some much needed attention so I can use it for more than mowing the grass. I want to get this tractor set-up to pull a 4ft box plate so I can groom some trails I have and also do some work in my lower driveway.

I got my Tru Powers and 12x10.5 rims ordered today for a start. Next I need to get a Ruegg 3pt ordered.

Below are the links to the rim blanks and centers I ordered. I feel like I am more than capable to weld these together and it was worth it to me to save some money that I can invest in other areas. The other thing I like about this route is I can set the backspace to whatever I want. I need to experiment and see what will work best.

http://www.millertire.com/products/w...n/12x10-5-rim/

http://www.millertire.com/products/w...2-rims-convex/

Has anybody gone this route or welded a set of wheels like this? Just looking for some tips and tricks before I start.

I had Xtreme build my wheels, this is the back spacing I had them welded at. This put's 1" of the additional rim width inboard and 1" outboard.

This is what I want to try. I don't want them to stick out to far because I'm planning on a 42" hydraulic tiller and a 4ft box plate. I would like to try to keep the outside of the tires less than 42" so I don't have to offset the tiller.

I priced the wheels at Xtreme and the blanks from Miller. Going with the blanks saves $84 on the shipped price. If you were not a capable welder, having the wheels done by Xtreme would be the way to go, for sure.

Sounds like you have I good idea what you want. I just took a few measurements on my 1772 with the the rims like Sam had made, it's right at 42". I don't think i would go less, the front is about 42 anyways and you would have to keep an implement or spring on the lift arms to keep them from hitting the tires. Welding the centers isn't too bad, run a straight edge across the rim and measure to the four corners of the center, once you get them all the same tack them and double check the measurements. Oh, be sure the three point rockshaft isn't hitting the fuel tank in the full down position, I had some small issues with that.

Thanks for the measurement on the rear. That sounds like it's right where I want to be. I will also have to watch out for that issue you had with tank clearance.

I also have a new dash I have to get installed. I bought it last winter and just never got around to getting it on. Should be an easy job once I get the steering wheel off.

The main reason I went with new wheels is so I can keep my turfs and chains mounted for winter use. I already have those loaded and I really didn't want to break them down.

Yesterday I got my new wheels and tires. Today I plan to weld them up and get them painted.

http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/...psmqltg9oo.jpg

I got the centers in at 1 5/8" backspace and mounted them on the tractor so I could spin them and check them for out of round. I got one down to .010 and the other down to .005. The rest is just the fact that the hoops aren't any more round then that.

http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/...psx4vqdrcu.jpg

Nice work!:beerchug:

I like the idea of using a dial indicator with the center mounted on the axle. Makes the wheel run true to the axle.
Do the centers fit tight enough in the wheel so they stay put when you remove them to weld?

They are a tight fit. I had to beat them around with a hammer to move them even when I had them mounted to the axle. I didn't know if it would make a difference so I also torqued all the lugs.

Using a dial indicator may be just a bit of over kill, don't think you can get a factory wheel that is even close to that. Killer job. Sometime if you have nothing better to do it would be interesting to see how bad the factory stuff is. :beerchug:

Nice work on the wheels. That's really accurate. I thought I'd throw up a pic of my 2082 with my 4ft box blade behind it. These were taken 2 weekends ago I think.

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...psgindqshu.jpg

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps5ybfn0vy.jpg

I got the Tru Powers mounted on the rims this morning. Now to get them loaded and mounted on the tractor.

http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9hmepx3r.jpg

This is the old ag tank I use to load tires. Fill it up and blow it in.

http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/...psgz7zxqyo.jpg

Got the Tru Power's loaded and mounted on the tractor. It defiantly changes the look of the tractor.

http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/...psle1zxbz6.jpg

How's the Cub pull that box plate? That's exactly what I'm looking for. I have been looking at some new ones because I'm having a hard time finding a used 4ft.

I bought a new dash for my 1572 over the summer and I finally got around to installing it. My old one was trashed beyond repair. I'm also fitting some aftermarket gauges while I'm there. I still haven't figured out how I'm going to install the temp probe for the temperature gauge. The D600 in the 1572 doesn't seem to have the same boss for the sensor as the pictures I seen of Sam Mac's gauge install on the 2182.

Here's how bad the old dash was. Duct tape and rivets were all that was holding it on.

http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/...psqlvlh3x6.jpg

http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/...ps324pmrep.jpg

Here is a mock up of the new dash with the gauges. I also decided to cut a piece of diamond plate that I plan to epoxy to the plate that the gauges mount too. It's a work in progress, but it should turn out good when I'm finished.

http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/...psnhm7wgs7.jpg

That's the same setup I have on a 1772. The D640 has the same type sending unit on the head as the D600. I purchased the water flange from Rich Patton. I think it was off of a newer Kubota WG engine. I kept the old temperature unit and mounted it under the hood just to make sure they read the same and they do.

I had to build a spacer behind the gauges so the battery wouldn't hit them. I wanted to have a piece of aluminum milled out to fit but used this...a piece of Hardi trim I had laying around.:biggrin2:
Attachment 69388

Here is what was needed to move the temperature sending unit.
Attachment 69389

Here it is installed. I had to extend the bypass hose a little. It will raise the top hose a little but I have had no problems so far with this setup.
Attachment 69390 Attachment 69391

Thanks for the info Oak!! That's looks like it's exactly what I need. :beerchug:

You'll love those Tru Powers. I got those on my 1872 and they not only make it look better, but give it a lot of traction on hills and bad ground. If my 1811 had turfs on it I'd have Tru Powers on it, but it came with good ags so there's no need to fix what isn't broken

That dash is going to look really nice!

I'm finally starting to make some progress on the dash. I decided to just epoxy the diamond plate to the original gauge panel and bodywork the seams. Turned out nice. I just need to find the time to finish it before the snow starts flying.

http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/...psvfhrzieb.jpg

http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/...pszbz2yiuk.jpg

Nice job. That looks great!
:beerchug:

I finally finished up my gauge and dash install yesterday afternoon, minus the temp sensor hookup. I built the wiring harness for the gauge lights and the volt meter from the original water temp sensor harness. This harness has everything you need, key on 12v, ground, and 12v from the light switch.

http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/...pscxzzhhnv.jpg

I decided to keep the original oil pressure warning light, so I used a tee fitting to keep the original sensor.

http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/...psny6tihm5.jpg

http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/...psqnn0imub.jpg

Looks great!

Did you move the hour meter somewhere else, or just ditch it?

I just ditched it. I do all my oil change and filter changes on a seasonal basis anyways, so it's really not of any use to me.

I was thinking about using the radiator hose adaptor in the link below to hook up my temp gauge. It looks like it will accept 1" hoses.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-2282