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Can't find Neutral on Cub 105 *UPDATE IN OP *
First thank you for the acceptance onto the site. I recently acquired a 2 for the price of 1 deal on a Cub 1200 and a Cub 105. Both are in great shape. The 105 pulled onto the trailer without a problem and was set in neutral. I started the 105 up and it ran great, but ran out of fuel. Upon fueling it up, I tried to put it back into neutral, but I could not get it in. I called the guy back, and he said " yeah it's tricky to find. " The labels are not on the lever. When I looked it up, I managed to find where neutral should be, but it won't go in. This is a Hydro. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks
** Update ** I did not know that the tractor would not move while in neutral (thanks for the help ). Thank god I was smart enough to use a floor jack to move the rear end into the driveway. I managed to get a battery that was on sale at Sears. The tractor starts and gears shift fine ( forward and reverse ). Now I have another problem. The tractor dies out after about 30 seconds of running on high. Pretty sure its a carb problem, as it will only start on full choke, and will not stay running at all after about 30 seconds, on full choke or no choke. |
First, welcome to OCC. :Welcome2:
The 105 is a hydra-static drive while the 1200 is a gear drive. The 105 is controlled by a Lever on the dash. If the Hydro Linkage is out of adjustment, the neutral maybe in a different position. You may have to try several locations to actually find neutral. There is a section in the Service Manual for making just such adjustments. You can go to our Technical Library section and look for the Service Manual for the 1x4/5 series tractors. |
I'll take a look at the linkage tomorrow. It says I have to adjust the brake pedal first so I will give it a shot. I need a battery for it first. I'll post a couple of pics of them when I get a chance.
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Are you looking for neutral so you can roll it without running the engine? The hydro's don't work like that, you need to disengage the check valves with the release lever, which will allow you to roll it with some effort. The neutral position on the hydro speed lever is only a position between forward and reverse.
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The release lever is on the right hand side of the tunnel. When it's depressed it reduces the rolling resistance a bit, but it's still pretty tough to roll. Make sure not to tow it, even with the lever down, because you can damage the pump pretty quickly. Rolling it by hand a little ways will be ok. If you press the lever down and there's no noticeable change, your flapper may have broken off. If that's the case, Jack it up and put a couple moving dollies under the rear wheels. Then you can move it somewhere convenient to work on it.
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Go to the Technical Library Section and D/L the 1x4/5 Series Owner/Operator's Manual. On Page 6 - illustration #6 shows the Release Lever.
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The guys are right about the hand lever only being a place between forward and reverse, but it won't "roll" there with the engine not running.
If you truly can't find neutral with the engine running then it may need to be adjusted (or more than adjusted). Unless you think you really think you need to adjust your brakes, you don't have to to that first. You might only need to do THIS. |
Your link does not work.
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Well what the "HECK"!
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There it does.
Thanks Lew. |
Chances are on a hydro that your brakes are totally fine, you'll see once you have yours up and running that you really don't need them.
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Hey thanks guy. I really appreciate it. I was looking to roll in with the motor off. I can honostly say i know nothing about hydro tractors. I did end up moving it by jacking the rear up and pushing on the jack. I am going to try to start ot and go from there. I was under the assumption that it was like a gear driven tractor and that it will move it neutral with the motor off.
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http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...2.jpg~original Jeff |
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Good luck with it, you've got a great machine. Plenty of help available here, too. Download the manuals, ask for help when you're confused, we'll take care of you here. Have fun with your 105!
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By the way, sounds like a fuel flow problem. Something partially plugged somewhere.
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The crap they sell as gasoline now doesn't have much of a shelf life. The MMO and Star Tron help a lot. |
If it starts and runs for a few minutes and then dies (the choke may help, too) it's 95% a dirty carb. Remove the carb, disassemble and clean out the gunk in the bowl and all the passages.
I just did this with two of my tractors yesterday. sitting for a year with ethanol in them does not have a good outcome. Little globs of gelatinous goo (phase separated ethanol) in the bowl and plugging up the passages. If you have a rebuild kit, go ahead and use it. If not, as a temporary repair, you can go back with the existing gaskets, etc., but risk a sticky float valve, and a subsequent repair. In a pinch, just clean and re assemble. Remember to turn the jet screws in until they seat, counting the turns, and then remove them. Upon re-assembly, screw them all the way in, and the unscrew the same number of turns as before. (NOTE--they may be wrong to begin with, so if in doubt, refer to the service manual). It'll run like a champ afterwards. |
You guys ready for this ?!? Man did I overthink this ! I drained the old gas in the tank, and removed the carburetor. I tore the carb down, cleaned it and reassembled it. Upon placing it back on, I attempted to start it, but this time it just wouldn't even start. It just turned and turned. I then looked at the fuel bowl attached to the tank. I took that off, and cleaned it. While looking at it, I noticed that the little screw was all the way in. I unscrewed it, and noticed that it was a fuel shut off valve. WELL...... I put it back on, fill it up, opened the valve, and low and behold the tractor starts right up. I then sat down,cracked a beer and started to laugh.....
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Jeff |
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..at least it's an electric start and not a manual yanker. It's worse when you yank by hand and once you are worn out realize the gas was off.
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Here the two Cubs I bought. I ended up selling the 105 that I was initially having trouble with. A co-worker purchased it, and wanted to completely restore it and gift it to his father. I kept the 1200. Wheel weights and plow included.
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For whatever reason, when I upload the pictures they end up turned
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Get a lower grill mesh and she's complete. Very nice!
How does it run? |
Very nice 1200! I also sold my 105 i had, along with qa36 blower and deck i had... been kickin my self ever since!!! But bills had to get paid!
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The 1200 runs like a top. It has some rattles in the hood and seat, but I'm sure I can fix those. The fenders have had a repaint on them, but as you can see they are the right paint.
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Interesting that the cast end deck is mounted under the 1200. And with the qa subframe, very cool and nice looking quiet line you got there.
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I tried the PTO, and the belt is stretched and keeps coming off. Spins good though. I have been interested in CC tractors for a long time. I do snow removal at about 10 neighbors homes. I have a 30 inch snowblower, but by the time I'm done.... I AM DONE ! After watching a few videos on youtube on different snowplows on Tractors, I decided the CC would be the one ! I'm hoping it will help my back, legs and arms.
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