1812 driveshaft questions
 

my 1812 has been shearing coiled spring pins , I dug into it today. was going to replace the front flange and bearing and also the rear centering bearing. took it apart and found the the input shaft on the hydro is egg shaped causing my issues. can you repair the input shaft or what can I do to fix the spring pin issues?

thanks in advance

Rob

I had my 1572 have the same condition with the hydro shaft becoming egg-shaped. It really did not really show up until I was randomly loosing sealing ability of the front seal and loosing hytran. As I was digging into it, I found the bronze self centering bearing at the pump end of the driveshaft was worn out and was allowing the disconnect clutch to rotate in an off-center out of balance condition. I believe this is what led to the problem with the hydro pump shaft becoming egg-shaped.

Rob

If the input shaft is worn the best thing to do is to replace the shaft. BIG $$$$$. I had one years ago that was worn, what I did was drilled the coupler or arm as they call it 90 degrees from the pin hole and tapped it for set screws to hold it from moving. I also used some Devcon plastic metal. I was working a couple years later when I sold the tractor. Never did like that design with only a pin. Good luck.

You cannot repair it. Not cost-effectively anyway. Your best most economical route is to replace the hydro with a good used unit. They usually sell for around $125.

It is caused by driveshaft misalignment either because it is bent, or because the centering bearing went out. The off-center load causes the shaft to wear a flat spot on it because that is where the most pressure is on the shaft. I'm not sure if that makes any sense.... but it's the best description I can do at the moment.

Frank, I think Rob is talking about the shaft being egg shaped where the coupler fits over it. The 1811 only has a round shaft with a 1/4" pin through it unlike the splines on the Supers and Cyclops series.

I took it to mean that the shaft was egg shaped at the front pump bearing.....not just the hole for the pin. :bigthink:

Jon we are on the same page. Egg shaped shaft. What I suggested is a stop gap fix. As you mentioned the proper thing to do is replace the pump or the shaft. The used pump is less expensive.

could I drill out the cast piece to equal the input shaft? or less trouble swaping hydro"s. I have an extra one on the shelf.

Less metal for the pin to turn the shaft with a larger hole. I wouldn't.

Rob

Post a pic of your coupler from the side with the pin and 90 degrees to the pin and I'll try to explain better what it is that I did.

Edit: I found a pic of the "Arm coupler" from Jeff in PA. What I did was tap the existing 1/4" holes for 5/16" or 3/8" set screws, I don't remember. Then drilled a 1/4" hole 90 degrees to the old hole for the spirol pin. Like I said I also put some Devcon plastic steel on the shaft to help fill the worn area. The set screws help to keep the whole mess for wobbling and allow you to get it centered. The pic is a replacement that Jeff in PA is making. I would bet that he could make one for you as I described, I would also make the part that fits over the shaft longer so that it engages more of the unused portion of the shaft. You'll have to measure how much longer it can be. In my experience there is around 1/4 of space between the pump seal and the coupler. That part of the shaft is not worn so a longer coupler will get things back to running nice and true.

Didn't you have a thread on it? I remember this repair you are talking about....... :bigthink:
Maybe you just told me about it in conversation...... I have CRS.

Jon that was the CV conversion. I posted just after you did so go back and look at the pic I just put up, hope it makes sense.

here are my pics

Rob

Nasty twist in the hydraulic line. You'll see how much extra shaft you have to work with. I'm sure Jeff can make a longer coupler as I described above that will get you going. I'll PM him with a link to this thread to get his input.

Those lines are NLA is anybody making new ones? any suggestions welcome

Rob,
I can make you a longer coupler as Sam drew on my picture. All I need to know is how much extra room there is for the extra length.

If you don't have a measuring device, use coins to gauge the opening. I'll need to know exactly what coins and how many.

1/4-28 set screws OK?

Jeff

thanks Jeff

They can be made. You need the tools..... if you don't have the tools, a used one may be the way to go. You might see if Rescue11 can make you up a set. Not trying to volunteer anyone, as he may not have time.... I can make them... but I don't have any extra time now. I can't even get around to fixing my broke a$$ stuff... LOL. :beerchug:

Used may be the way to go for you. Try the sponsors.


GENIUS. Sheer GENIUS. :Bowdown2::Bowdown2:

The US Mint is very fussy with coin thickness tolerances. Different denomination of coins are different thicknesses.

( when reloading, a nickel is the difference in height between a .38 special and a .357 mag :biggrin2: )

I'm not sure about your area, but my local NAPA does all sorts of hydraulic lines and A/C lines.

I have a hydraulic cylinder repair shop near me, that makes hoses as well? Check your yellow pages.

Jeff

In looking at the coupler that your making I don't see the bore that the ball bushing fits in like shown in the parts call out that the drive shaft centers in.
#7 703-0794 Coupling Assy | (Includes Ref No. 8)
#8 741-3004 BUSHING-BALL

does anyone have a good pic of # 7 and #8 to post here, so that Jeff D can make me a new one. thanks in advance

Rob

I would suggest that you measure the space between the coupler and the pump then remove your coupler and send it to Jeff so that he can build you a new & longer one.

Rob, here are the specs on the ball bushing.
http://www.triangleoshkosh.com/produ...shings-he1410p

I have a new coupler I can get some measurements if you or Jeff need those too.

I'm going to toss out another option just to muddy the waters. You could also convert from the rag joint setup to a CV shaft. A 1541,1860,1861 or 1862 shaft and an adapter for the pump from Jeff should do it. I'd still make the adapter a little longer.

Dimensions would be a big help.
Thank you very much
Jeff

Like this one Rob?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...1.jpg~original

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...2.jpg~original

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...3.jpg~original

It's "2-1/2 quarters longer" than factory with two set screws to negate the effects of the worn pump shaft.

Tempted to stay out of the conversation, if needed I could build you a nwe line. OR show you another route to go for a hydraulic line.

Just pm me

Oooh, that looks good Jeff.

Here is what the PO did on my 882 and it works fine.
Attachment 70583

Theres an easier way than that even