LED head lights
 

Replacement for the 4.5" sealed beam can be gotten from Larson LED it takes a replacement of a Par 36s

Have a link?

Is this it?

https://www.larsenlights.com/par-36-...tt-flood-light

Yes thats the one thanks MWshaw.

Some more possibilities can be found here;

https://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/...AR111,30,3370:

Has anyone done this successfully? I bought a set from superbright and haven't been able to get them to fire yetis my 149. I think the problem is in my switch/wiring, but everything seems to be as expected with a volt meter. I need to put a test light on it. (The bulbs light if wired directly to the battery)

Remember those LED bulbs are polarity sensitive and if hooked up reverse they will not work

Yes, it's been done successfully. Check your polarity. Diodes only accept power in one direction.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=47029

I am aware of the potential for polarity problems, in fact currently I have one bulb wired each way to keep hat base covered. (They may have resolved the polarity problem internally with these bulbs considering they are sold as AC/DC and superbright is usually good about telling you when a bulb is sensitive to polarity)

They can't solve a polarity issue internally..... it's an LED. Light Emitting Diode. The very nature of it is polarity specific. You either didn't get DC compatible lights, or they are bad, or you didn't wire them right.

If it was a discrete LED you would be correct, but in this case the "LED" bulb consists of a circuit that contains LEDs. The circuit can be (and in this case is) set up such that the polarity of the source doesn't matter.

I just bench tested one of the bulbs. It lights when connected directly to a 12v battery in either polarity configuration.

I guess that gets me back to a problem with the wiring or switch. Is there any good way to get to the inside of the steering tower to troubleshoot the switch?

Sounds like you know all about them. Should be easy to troubleshoot.

Yes, if they are an AC/DC bulb, then polarity won't matter due to the rectifiers in the assembly. However, that info wasn't provided at the beginning. Did you check the fuse for the lights? How about the wires going from the switch to the grille? An animal could have chewed through them or maybe they deteriorated. Check that all that is good before you go replacing parts.

All LED's are DC and driven by a driver depending on the type of bulb. Some are constant voltage and some are constant current. The drivers come in both internal and external versions. Most consumer LED's are internal driver types. The drivers regulate the voltage and or current from the supply to drive and protect the bulb. When AC power is used the driver also has a rectifier circuit to provide the DC. With your test on the battery and the lights working and a voltage only test on the tractor you have a current issue. It could be a corroded connector, a mostly broken wire or a switch with bad contacts.
Jimmy

Yes I checked the fuse. A quick visual inspection of the wires didn't turn up anything obvious. The lights haven't made it far enough up the priority list to get another look yet.

I haven't gotten to the point of replacing parts yet. At this point if I was going to replace anything it would be wire.

What are the positions on the light switch? It seems to be a 4 position rotary switch, but I haven't been able to find any info on what the positions are. Are hey just different brightness levels for the halogen bulbs?

Switch positions on my original 149 are ON and OFF thats it.

It is possible that someone replaced the switch on your Cub with one for a tractor.... farm tractor. They look identical, except the Cub one was a on-off and the other was a 4 position. Off-dim-bright-field. If this is the case, then you likely have the wire hooked up to the "dim" post. Your LED's wouldn't be getting enough voltage. Yes, it just used a resistor.


On another note, I don't know why your having issues. You know how and LED works, and you know they work hooked up to a battery. Do you not own a DVOM to see if the wires you hooked them up to have power on them? Or if that power source is a full 12V? If not, then go get one and test the damn thing. Guessing what is wrong is just plain silly.

I'm glad I installed mine before I saw how complicated it can be.:bigthink:

Attachment 82760

It is not any more complicated than the OEM 4411 lamp.

:IH Trusted Hand:

:rotf1: :rotf1:

Just bought 4 to try on the 1086. I'll let y'all know how it goes..


https://www.larsenlights.com/par-36-...tt-flood-light

I kinda like the OEM look of the sealed beamers......They light up good enough for me. :cool:

Glad you posted that link, let us know how they do on the tractor. I have been watching the PAR 36 replacements for a while now. Tiger lights has them for $50. I'd like to replace all 4 on dad's 4020 Deere and his IH 454. I guess it is me, same tractors, same fields, but I could actually see at night 30 years ago.:bigthink:

30 year younger eyes too :bash2:

We got spoiled with better lights in our cars and trucks and expect the same from our equipment.

I think Jeff hit it..... I've been trying to figure it out too. I run equipment at night and I'm like.... man, I used to be able to see better. It seems so dark. But I really think it's just we've grown accustom to better lighting in general and it just "seems" like you can't see as well. Back then, I guess we didn't notice because we didn't know any better. Even in the 90's the lighting we had seems so dim in comparison now. (Comparing OEM lights on equipment and cars to stuff made in the last 5 or even 10 years.)

:ExtremeFunny: :beerchug:

I do not know how it works for cubs, but the LED lights for Christmas bulbs do not emit enough light to melt off the snow. So, if you are blowing/throwing snow or using your cub in the snow, it may not remove the snow from the headlights. However, the exhaust it up by there and that may be sufficient for melting the snow off the of lights. Kind of depends on what you use your cub for, under what conditions you are working, etc... Just something to ponder....

Cub Cadet 123

Got my lights put on the 10 tonight. Wow, bright bright bright... They look factory until they are powered up.

Amp draw per led light = 1.05 amps

Amp draw per halo light = 4.58 amps

So...4 lights that produce at minimum 2x the light consume 22.9% of the power, a God send for old iron, and they fit perfectly in the existing rubber retainer.

My opinion, if you use the lights on your cub for anything other than show, these are the only way to go.

Top picture is a comparison of the led v.s. halogen. The halogen is a 55 watt, for those that dont know, typically your cub cadets will have 35 watt.

Glad to hear they bolted right in! I need to go ahead and order at least two for the 4020 Deere. We were trying to finish up planting corn a couple years ago and it was pathetic. Dad was planting, the kid was driving along side of him with the Kawasaki Mule shining his headlights on the the "last"row so dad could follow the marker. Did I mention I was running out of seed? I was walking behind keeping the seed levels monitored. Hey, it worked and the rows were straight.:biggrin2::biggrin2:

If anyone wants to see what LED in general will do, these are self contained (mount included) lights I got off ebay--cheapest things I could find. Been using them 3 years with no problem. You can literally stand in front of the machine and read a book at night. If a guy were to use them on a Cadet in snow, the whole neighborhood would probably glow--may need sunglasses?:biggrin2:

Now John,
we both know crooked rows give more bushels per acre :biggrin2:

Yeah but when pass A gets too close to Pass B, somethings gonna get squished! You did notice that BIG combine right--all 2 rows of it.

By the way my dad says the same thing about the crooked rows.

I just installed a set of the 70 watt equivalent ones from superbrightleds.com, and they are bright! its the first ones on the list, and they are glass, and you have to really look close to realize they are led at all. at a glance they look just like a stock headlight. at 14.95 apiece, I am going to get another set for my big tractor.

Well I started with a give-to-me model 72 massy, built a feeder house to marry it to a 303 corn head,worked darn good.
Way quicker than the 101 semi mounted 1 row deer picker.
I now plant with a 4 row maximerge and harvest with a 5 row head.
so I know about "crowding" occasionally.

Now before you say they don't make a 5 row head, I know, but I built it.
It was #44 wide row, which is now a 5 row narrow.
The old 510 massey will keep up just fine with combines 10 years newer.
It has no bells an whistles or monitors but cuts 50 bu beans and 150 bu corn
just as clean and as quick as new high $$$ ones.
works for me.
Now about falling asleep cultivating corn, Ha,LOL:bigeyes: