This is what I got for free
 

CC 682 Mod# 143682100 Ser#2050600U723386 Kohler KT17S 50" Deck.
This was given to me and was kept in a garage. The deck has some rust holes that I can weld up. The motor will turn over by jumping the solenoid (sic). From what I can find on the interweb, It's a 1983. First I need the correct Mod and year, so I can order parts. Second, how much money should I throw at it before I get too deep. I plan to use it as my daily mower, unless I'm told other wise.

PS- Hopefully I'm in the right forum.

Thanks

Free is good,pictures are gooderer.
Welcome to the feva....

682 is the right model number. Year is unimportant for any of the parts you mentioned.

Not sure what else it is you want to know.... it's a good machine, it was free, so you should be able to dump about $750 into it and not be hurt.

Have fun. :beerchug:


"Solenoid"

1983. Certain parts fall into serial number ranges and NOT by year.

IF.....everything is original (2050600U723386), then it should have a Kohler KT-17 Series I engine in it. This engine and any of it's parts are NLA. The upgrade was a KT-17 Series II.

The motor tag KT17S Spec #24193 Ser#12139135 How about the best site to order parts?

Gidday, eh! If it has the original KT Series I, then do not mow inclines with it (ditches, hills, etc.) as they were prone to locking up....so I am told. The best site to order parts is from our sponsors who are listed at the top of the forum page, our sponsors. It kind of depends on what parts that you need, too. Some parts can be obtained from your local tractor supply store or Napa or....

Cub Cadet 123

That's the right price! Can't beat free! If it were mine and the engine gave ( gave up the ghost) I'd put a k series in it. Or magnum. Congratulations!

Thanks for any and all input into my winter project. Pics will be comming when I get back to the garage.

Free is always good.

That is tough to say.

Really you need to define that for yourself. A nice, good running, functional 682 would most likely sell for $600.00 to $700.00, depending on which part of the country you are in. Seeing as how you got yours for free? You have a few bucks to spend.

One other way to look at it is, how much would you spend, to get something brand new, that is comparable to your 682?

Next time you are at your big box lumber store, check out a new garden tractor (not a lawn mower). Compare how they are built, to your 682. It is tough to find a new garden tractor, built as tough as the older cubs. You almost need to get into a compact tractor.

Either way, your call.

Both the series 1 and the series 2 had pressurized oiling systems.

The main difference was the series 2 had oil passages running to the connecting rods, where as the series 1 did not. (there are other differences, this is the biggest reason series 1 gets a bad rap.)

When operated on an incline, the rods would no longer pick up splash oil from the crankcase, starve for oil and fail. Most times the rod would break in half and the half that was still connected to the crankshaft (still rotating) would punch a hole in the crankcase.

Sad because other than that, they are a beast of an engine.

If your property is mostly flat, you should be fine. If you have a ditch, best to mow that with push mower.

Best of luck, you've come to the right place.

Series 1 and 2 did have oil pumps/pressure system as you said,
but series 1 only had #5-maybe #10 pressure.
Series 2 and magnums with full pressure lubrication, were set to activate the pressure relief in the #50 range.
As far as running the series 1 on side angles, it was a problem, but not as much as it was hyped.
they died more early deaths from people revving a cold engine, before the oil was able to splash into the rod journals.
Splash lube on those engines just was a poor design and was corrected, but not before the opposed flathead got a bad reputation.

Back at it.
 

the motor would not turn over with the ignition switch. I clean all electrical connections and bench tested the solenoid (good). It still would not turn over using the ignition switch, however would turn over when jumping the solenoid. I'll be looking for the shop manual and electrical manual. In the mean time, to get this '83 682 to turn by the ignition switch, do I need to be on the seat a pedal depressed? Anything else?

PTO switch needs to be off and brake peddle applied.
Both are safety switch interrupts of starting circuit.
Seat possibly, but can't remember off top of my head.
Follow the wiring diagram to help you diagnose

Four things needed to start the tractor. This is in consideration that it is wired correctly, and all parts are correct and functional.

(A) Hydro lever needs to be in Neutral
(B) Sit in the seat
(C) PTO Switch in off position
(D) Left Brake Pedal depressed.

Last week I just finished up getting my friends 682, of late 1981 vintage, up and running after it sat for 5 years in a garage next to a salt water dock on Long Island Sound. It also had the Kohler KT17S engine as does my 682. You might want to do the following: change the ignition points (they seem to oxidize over time), Hy-Tran fluid and filter, motor oil (SAE-30 weight), rebuild the carb (kit is Kohler 25-757-02-S) or at least empty the bowl, drain the gas tank as it likely has old gas and the water sits at the bottom right by the petcock, replace the 1/4" fuel hoses, new air filter and foam pre-filter, maybe a new battery (I like the Sears DieHard Gold), and grease all the fittings on the mower deck, steering shaft, and front axle. If you do this you likely will also need to buy some gaskets, but all are inexpensive. All told this would cost about $250 in parts.

Though as mentioned before folks fear using this tractor on slopes I haven't had a problem. My yard and field isn't flat and I haven't had a problem in the five years I've had my 682. It had 360 hours on the engine when I got it, and I put about 20 hours on it each year. My yard slopes from the front which is 2 ft below the 'ground' floor to the backyard basement walkout, so about a 5 ft dip. Likewise the field I mow has a stretch where the ground rises about 8 ft over a 50 ft run, and I use on a field that has a slope that would be great for sledding.

Thanks again all. Trying to get the electrical straight first, then moving to the other things that are mentioned. I am looking for the wiring manual to trace for any faults.

"No Start" and "no Charge" with the 82 series stuff can usually be traced to the socket on the ignition switch. Check everything else like you're doing, but pay close attention to that multi-pronged socket switch. Also known to cause PTO engagement issues. Take it off and check-double-check for burnt wiring, corrosion, loose connections, or anything else that could cause resistance in the various circuits that run through that switch. Good luck, and don't give up!

Like others have said KT 17's aren't as bad as most make them out to be.. You just gotta keep them full of oil and don't run them off camber for any length of time.. If you keep oil to the rods they can survive.. I have a 1980 782 with 1200 hrs on it.. original KT 17 has never had a wrench on it.. but the original owner was meticulous about the service and checked the oil EVERY time he used it.. Low oil on a splash lube system equals starved rods and a hole in the block... mine does use a little oil but still has plenty of power..
I wouldn't worry about spending money on it.. even if you do a repower you still got less in it than you would spend on a new unit from Sears, home depot or Lowes.... and you got a WAY better machine :beerchug::beerchug:

WE LIKE PICTURES!! :biggrin2::biggrin2:

electrical
 

OK back in the Man Garage after the holidays. so far no juice to the brake switch, so I,m thinking the PTO relay or the reverse relay. Checking prices. bench tested the reverse relay and it tested out fine. I even opened it up.

The Reverse Relay has NOTHING to do with starting the engine.

Here is a simplified Schematic for the 682/782 CCC built machines

There is:
(A) Ignition Switch (B --> S)
(B) PTO Switch (C--> D) or (1 --> 2)
(C) Brake Pedal (Neutral) Switch (Normally Open, closes when the pedal is depressed)
That are in the start circuit.

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w...i.png~original

Happy camper so far. Took the PTO switch apart, cleaned and back together. Now that was a pain. Motor turning over. Now to the coil. Again thanks for all the input.:beerchug:

new to me
 

Got the motor to turn over but no spark. Ordered points and condenser and plug wires. See if that works.

Are you getting power to the coil with the key on?

I got a new in the box kohler coil with new plug wires

Coil
 

Finally back on the 682. Replaced the plug wires, condenser and points. Still not spark at plugs. I'm getting power to the + side of the coil and when I turn it over, I'm getting power to the - side of coil. No power from either plug at coil. I'm using an auto light probe to show power. Any suggestions?

Are you looking to sell it.

The plugs and coil secondary are in series, so you need both plugs hooked up

Ground your test light and put it on the minus side of the coil while you crank the engine. It should flash on/off. Not just stay on. If it doesn't flash, your points aren't breaking the circuit.

It flashes. Thanks

Are you saying I need both plugs connected to the plug wires? Do they need to be grounded?

Are you saying I need both plugs connected to the plug wires? Do they need to be grounded?

spark
 

First I want to thank all for the tech advise and for the offer for parts. Cant beat experience. Put the plugs in the wires and grounded and I GOT SPARK. Now on the the carb. Again thanks all.:beerchug:

She's running
 

Put some gas in her and she fired up.:biggrin2: Now I can move on to getting her back in shape to cut some grass.:ROTF1:

Trans fluid
 

What type and weight of fluid goes in the trans?

Drove her up and down the Street . This thing flies and rides like a Cadi compared to my MTD