It's alive!!!!!
 

I got a command 20 a while back with less than 400hrs on it and I've never heard it run till today. Man does it run. After a fast carb clean, it fired right up with no smoke and it really sounds awesome with no muffler. :biggrin2: So, my question is what do I need to drop this in a 1811 chassis or this 1282 I have sitting here? I'd also like to know what model cubs I could steal a PTO off of, since this one is missing a few parts?

So here's what I have so far. I took the engine plate out of a parts 1811 I have sitting here and put it in the 1282 chassis, the Drive coupler off the original 1282 engine bolted right on so I set the engine in to take a look. The drive shaft appears to be about an inch to long and it had a real slight misalignment but I put a washer under the back of the engine to raise it up and it looks much better. I test fit the side cover and it looks like I will have to run an electric fuel pump because the mechanical pump hits the side cover.

Looks like your off to a good start. I see you still have the screen under the frame. I took mine off my 1211. I'd rather have the crap fall out than build up on there a cause a fire or something. That 1282 should have plenty of power to do whatever you want!

cub
 

Hello, the pto off a KT17 fit on one i did. CH had 1-1/8" crank and was about a 1/2" short, i added a spacer. Mike

Tim,save the motor for one that will need it like a super,unless your making a puller out of the 1282...

Nope no puller but it will make one heck of a grass killer, I also have the rearend from an 1811 and a 2 spool valve I want to install to do away with the manual lift. I'd like to use the 1282 for mowing and the 1211 for plowing, as far as putting it in a sgt I prefer the size of the gt to the sgt.

stick it in the 1211 then

The 1211 is to nice to modify, the 1282 is a basket case.

Tim if you want to use a pto on that, you will need to drill new holes in the mount plate. Here's the post from my 782 repower with the link I used to locate the holes. http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...7&postcount=19

I'm pretty sure that you can rotate the ports on that fuel pump. That may help with clearance. If you even need a pump with the tank in stock location.

I put an electric fuel pump in the 782 I repowered. Also used 1/4 thick shims
under the engine. You will have to modify the air cleaner box and it will fit.I just held the cover on a 6in belt sander. Heat shields are off a 1864 I think but I'm not sure

Thanks for the info guys, hopefully I can get some more time to work on it later in the week.

I got the holes drilled in the mounting plate and the engine lined right up, I need to measure the distance from the cross member to the driveshaft on an 1811 so I know how thick the spacers need to be under the engine. Once that's done I can wire it up and take it for a spin.

One more pic of the engine sitting in place.

Try taking the air cleaner cover off where it is. You will see what I mean by sanding off the back :biggrin2:

I tried, I'm waiting until I have the engine in its final position until I mod the air box.

Good work Tim. :beerchug:
What are you using for wiring, the original one? If so will you need to modify it any?

i have the wiring harness out of an 1811 that i think im going to use since its already setup for a magneto, hopefully that will minimize wiring issues.

It's simple to add a relay to take care of the Mag issue. I would have just used the original ign switch and harness.


Don't forget you need to add:

- A power wire for the coil on the carb.

- A relay between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid. The solenoid pulls pretty hard and it has been found that a relay reduces the stress on the ign switch. You could use the one already next to the battery, but no need for those wires back there, or that one mounted at all. A little simple relay will work.

-IIRC, the V twin doesn't have a rectifier mounted to it. Maybe yours did, maybe not, but don't forget to make sure it's hooked up.

My CH20 has a rectifier. It's on the left side and low. Well, left side as its
sitting in the tractor.

how exactly do you go about hooking up a relay to kill the mag? my engine has a rectifier on it.

I'm no good at making diagrams on a PC, so I'll explain it. It's easy....

5 terminals on a relay. They are 85, 86, 30, 87, 87A.

85/86 are the control portion. One is power and the other ground. Doesn't matter which. Hook one to ground, the other to the powered ign circuit that used to run to the coil (originally).
30 is the "in" portion of the switch circuit. Ground this terminal.
87/87A are the "out" portion. 87 is normally open, 87A is normally closed. Hook the wire to the Mag to 87A.
Terminal 87 will not be used.

When you turn the ign on, it will open the ground contact to the mag and it will run. When you shut it off, it will close the contact to the ground and kill it. Easy peezy. :beerchug:

that makes sense, thanks

Since I replaced the hour meter with an oil pressure guage, I used the wire
that powered the meter to power the solenoid on the carb

Does it keep time as good as the meter did?


:biggrin2::biggrin2::biggrin2:

No it's stuck on 40 o'clock. :biggrin2: