Cub 149 Not Starting
 

Recently got a cub 149 that had been sitting for nearly 8 years. Replaced points and condenser. It fired right up but didn't run right. Went to adjust carb to smooth the running but noticed the armature post on starter gen was smoke. Ordered rebuild kit and got it all back together and will not run. Anyone have any idea what I can do?

Welcome to the forum!

Won't crank or won't run?

I rebuilt the starter generator and now it will not start. Turns over fine and power all the way to the points. Not sure if carb is out of adjustment

Power to the points.... what about when they are closed? Shouldn't be power to them then.....

Link to download the Kohler manual:
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=4646

It will tell you how to do an initial set up on the carb. NOTE: Initial set up. Further tuning required.

Did you order the correct rebuild kit? If you put fields in it did you make sure to get CCW kit? Make sure engine spinning correct direction, CCW

I didn't see where you said you rebuilt the carb. Sitting 8 years it might need
it.:biggrin2:
I would do that first then start adjusting it. Or at least clean it out really good

Standing in front, facing the tractor (CCW).

or

From the seat, clockwise.

Yes the rotation is correct. Made sure of that when ordering the right field kit for the starter. Carb was cleaned really good when I first got it. Like I mentioned, it fired right up once I put new points and condenser. Only thing I done different was rebuilt started because it was smoking after it started running. Rebuilt it and now it doesn't start. Checked the points, when opened it has power and when closed it doesn't so I know that's right as well

Is the coil getting power in the crank position of the key as well? Seen that before...

Is it getting fuel? You sure?

Did you time it? Or gap the points?

Time it:
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=33461

I just adjusted points once I got new one in and fired right up. Now won't start. I'll try to adjust using timing method on flywheel tomorrow.

Trying to time lining marks up on fly wheel. First mark I come to looks like SP. Going CCW the next mark looks like something C. At that point is where my points begin to break. Are the points breaking at the wrong place or is that right? Not sure what the C stands for

One mark should read "S" and the other "T". It's possible that it is "SP" and "TC". Either way, points should just break on the "S" or "SP" mark. S/SP is for "spark". T/TC is for "Top center". Pretty self explanatory really....

That's what I thought but mine break at tc and not sp. Also when I check piston at the tc mark it is not tdc.

You have the head off?

My bad, I meant valve. Either way that would mean not tdc. Got it running finally and adjusted carb. Runs but shakes really bad. Engine needs overhauled for sure but I figured it would still settle its self out by adjusting carb. The shaking from being out of time?

Valve should be shut at TDC unless it's on overlap.... plus, the ACR should be making the valve come open, so you can't judge by looking at the valve. Only the piston.

What makes you think it needs overhauled? If it hasn't run in 8 years, it's likely going to smoke a bit, and for a while until things settle back in....

Shaking from being out of time..... likely. Figure it out. Time it. Set the points to open on the "S" mark (or whatever your flywheel says). Only way it can be wrong is if the key is sheared on the crank for the flywheel.

I justi was afraid key was sheared because the points are opening on the DC marks and not the SP. No way to rotate that much on the flywheel and points with out adjusting teeth on crank. Also have oil on top, blowing out one of the studs on top plus blowing out exhaust.

Needs a head gasket

The points opening on the DC may just be that you don't have it adjusted correctly. Doesn't mean the crank key is sheared.


Agreed.


While you have the head off, you can see if the DC mark is in the right spot. :biggrin2:

Adjusted points again and shaking is almost gone. Adjusted them at .020 when the points opened to their widest point. Now they are starting to open pretty close to the SP on flywheel. Thanks for all the help! Now adjusting carb and rebuild engine.

SCCREEEEEEAAAAAACCCCCHHHHHHH......... (that's me slamming on the brakes)

Wait... What??

Did you say "Now adjusting carb and rebuild engine"?

First off.... I'm scared for you to attempt an overhaul as you didn't seem to have a real good grasp on static timing and adjusting a carb.... now you want to overhaul it?

Second: If you planned to overhaul it, why the #$%@ did you spend all this time screwing with it to get it running? Why wouldn't you have just tore it down and done it?

I knew how to time just wasn't sure about the lettering on flywheel not being a t or s. I'm adjusting the carb so I can get it running decent to do a few projects around the house before I start a rebuild. I like messing with things to begin with and this is giving me something to do while I also work on the paint end of the tractor.

I knew going into it I needed to rebuild because the person I got it from said it was using oil before he parked it.