Picked up a 374 Haban
 

Okay, I have a few questions?

I picked this Haban up off of Cl and it is different than the others that I have.
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I'm missing the mule drive but I'm going to see if the guy has that part yet on the 1872 he pulled it from. Is there anything different on the mule drive needed or is it the standard one? I have a few laying around that might work if they are the same.

No holes, just some normal rust and a few spots that are a little heavy.
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I didn't tear into the spindles yet but they seem like they are in pretty good shape and so are the pulleys.:beerchug: They will be getting new bearings and seals.
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Looks like I'll be cranking up ole sparky to fix this.:angry:
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What are you guy using for blades? Do they make Gators for them? TIA.

There are different variations of the 374 deck. Yours looks like it has solid bones. Check for cracks at the 4 bolt holes of the bearing cups. Look to Sam's threads for reinforcing the back lift plate. Make sure the lift brackets are trued up and hanging points are too worn. I just use the standard $45 3 blade set from cub. They have a hardened version for much more money. Never investigated the gators. Oh, and congrats on picking up the big grass killer!:beerchug:

Did you get the 2 pieces that bolt to the frame as well??

Todd

Got ya covered on this one. Had one just like it.
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=33020
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=29727

Mule is the same as other Cub mules.

That is a great deck Todd!

Check out Sam's links... as he said... He's got you covered

I kept eyeballing it but didn't really need another one and it would've been a haul for me to go get it

Glad you got it!:beerchug::beerchug:

Check for broke welds everywhere. The wheel bushings are probably shot. Also check the spring on the deck belt tensioner. I would pull that plate off and clean underneath it. I have aftermarket blades from IHCCW on mine. Bought my belts from V-belt Supply--the ones from Cadet didn't last very long.

Steve, it looks pretty solid and I don't see any cracks except for the rear lift bracket that bolts on. That will get fixed.

Finsruskw, nope, I didn't get those 2 small pieces that bolt to the frame but I don't need them because I put Sam's braces on all my supers.

Sam, yep, I did a search on several of your Haban builds before I picked this one up and thanks for posting them and designing the rear brace kit.

Jay, I don't need it either. I have 2 other 374's and 2 other 325 Habans. I'm gonna warn ya now. I like that color scheme you did on yours. This will probably go under my 982/Onan money pit machine and it may get a red & white or red & black paint job like your yellow & white machine.:beerchug:

John, this deck will have every nut, bolt & bracket pulled off. It will be cleaned of rust and then shot with PPG 2k primer and some PPG Shop-line paint.

I forgot to mention that I picked it up for $200. I'm pretty happy about that.:beerchug:

Thanks again guys.

Todd

If you have any questions fell free to call. That style deck was my fav of all the Habans I've owned. Rear mount sucks but it's an easy fix.

Good deal Todd:beerchug:
If your needing deck wheels, I couldn't be happier with the ones I got from mcmaster carr . Heavy duty, and quiet.:bigthink:

Well I'm gonna need a part#. I guess I could :callyou:

Suppose you could call, but I don't remember the numbers off the top of my head. But they are the Rubber thread wheels(Abrasion-Resistant Tread—Hard (95A Durometer) Spoked...
Link, http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-wheels/=137rk9r
If that's not as clear as mud let me know and I'll look through my papers tomorrow to find the numbers.:beerchug:

Todd

I got the bronze bushings and front wheels from McMaster
These are the bushings I used for the front Casters

Part #2938T55 SAE 863 Bronze Flanged-Sleeve Bearing, for 3/4" Shaft
Diameter, 1" OD X 1-1/4" L X 1-1/4" Flange OD
4 each 2.98 $11.92

These are what I used for front wheels
Part # 8368T57 High-Capacity Rubber-Tread Wheel, 6" X 2", 1/2" &
5/8" Axle, Roller Bearing, 820# Capacity
2 each $22.87 $45.74
Merchandise $57.66
__________________________________________________ ________________
These are wheels that look like they would work for the rear wheels, these are McMaster #'s

Dia wd shaft hub cap Cap price

8" 2" 1/2" 2 7/16" Spoked 450 2319T96 16.09



8" 2" 5/8" 2 7/16" Spoked 450 2319T95 16.09



8" 2" 1/2" 2 7/16" Spoked 1,000 8368T32 24.09



8"2" 5/8" 2 7/16" Spoked 1,000 8368T31 28.63

Bushings 1/2" ID 5/8" OD 1" long 1688K17 part # 1.64 ea
__________________________________________________ _______
This is what I used for deck bearings ( you'll need to remove the inner seals)
Haban deck bearings

MRC 205 SZZ
Pacamor 6205 Z 52 MM OD X 25MM ID X 15MM wide


VXB.COM 1-800-928-4430
8 Bearing 6205-2RS 25x52x15 Sealed Ball Bearings
Price: $31.37
Code: Kit487
http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit487

Todd,

When I rebuilt my 374 last winter I splurged and bought a set of the Cub Cadet blades with the hard carbide edge.. got a BUNCH of hours on them this year already and so far they are just as sharp as the day i put them on. I shopped around and found them for about $120 for the set... verdict is still out on whether they are worth all that money!:beerchug:

We run another 374 at the shop... the one we got from Sam... we are running the Stens blades from Patton Acres on it.. I have sharpened them twice in the same amount of time and they are close to needing it again. But that set of blades is about 40 bucks...

I got some regular old 6205 bearings from my local auto parts store... they fit and worked great and they were in stock.. bout 5 bucks a piece and like Sam said take the inside seal out.

I'm running the same front casters as Sam and Todd on both..they work great..

Those are the best version of the Haban 60 inchers in my opinion..

Have fun with it... if you want to get rid of it I can give it a home under a 982!:biggrin2::biggrin2:

Todd, Sam & Jay, thanks so much for all the information you guys give. It makes it a lot easier to order parts that have been field tested and I know will work. Looks like I'll be watching for the big brown truck this week. Didn't get much done this weekend but it is completely disassembled and ready for some clean up. Stay tuned.:biggrin2:

Todd, congratulations on the good deal!:beerchug: I wish I could find one for my Super. I got bored today and fixed up a mule from the best pieces of the 3 I had and slid the 50c under it. I just need to fix the wiring, get a belt, and make an anti rotation pin for the pto.

If you take the deck in and out much you are better off with the 50C...

That Haban is not meant to be handled!! HEAVY AND BULKY!!:biggrin2::biggrin2:

Todd,

I can't take much credit.... Sam provided me with a TON of info...

I enjoyed working on mine though.. I don't mind spending time, dollars and effort on something that is well engineered and built to last!!:biggrin2::biggrin2:

I hate working on modern junk cause you still don't have anything when you are done!:beerchug:

Oh yeah... feel free to use the two tone paint idea! Somebody else did mine years ago so I can't take credit for that either!!:beerchug:

But i do like it.. breaks up all that white on that beastly piece of iron!!:biggrin2::biggrin2:

Todd go to page 917 and 918 in "what did you do to your cub today". That's where the pictures are of the rear wheel.
Still don't know how you guys copy and paste... Some it will and some it won't.:BangPC:

I have used this kit from Xtreme. They worked very well. The McMaster route could be a little less on the wallet.

http://www.xtrememotorworks.com/Part.../CC-09-100.htm

Got a little more done on the 374 today.

This thing has a lot of rust and pitting but no holes. I looked for someone near that would sandblast it but the only shop I found wants $100/hour to blast it, typical Atlanta prices so I figured I would give it a try.

Here is what I started with.
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Northern Tool had a sale on this stuff so I used it. $8/bag, purchased 3 but only used about 1.5 bags.
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After I hit it with the wire wheel and Scotch pad wheel I started blasting.
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Hit the paint store earlier in the week and picked up some epoxy primer.
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Crappy day to paint! 95 degrees and I was sweating like a pig and dripping on the paint.:angry: Oh well, it's only a mower deck, then my gun clogged up. Never had that happen before.
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I guess it turned out okay. Question for the painters. I'm thinking I just wet sand this and then hit it with another coat of epoxy or should I use the 2k? I'm thinking about doing the high build route to fill in all the pitting if I go with the 2k next. Is that what you guys would do?

Depending on the size of the pits you probably won't be able to fill them, if it were me I'd spread a light layer of body filler over it and sand it with a D-A. That's the fastest way to fill pits, once you do that you can hit it with some high build primer.

Sounds like a plan Tim, thanks. Spot putty or get a can of bondo?

Here's what I'm dealing with.
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Since spot putty air dries it's not good for filling pits, you need something with hardener

Thin Ice is good polyester putty, but its 35 or so a tube.

I agree with Tim... Give it a wipe with body filler or polyester finishing putty (something with a hardener) and then finish up with some high build 2K primer... still going to be some work though if you want all the pits gone.

Looking good so far!!:beerchug:

One thing I will add is that I recommend you also do the underside, grass won't stick as bad if it's smooth compared to leaving the pits.

Thanks guys. I hit an auto parts store on the way home tonight and picked up a can of Bondo brand body filler(probably junk) but they didn't have much selection.

I hit the underside with a wire wheel and then shot some Loctite Extend Rust Neutralizer a few weeks ago and also sprayed that side with the epoxy too. I usually give the bottom several coats of primer and then several coats of slip plate.

Do you recommend that I wet sand it first and then hit the pits with the filler or do the filler then sand?

Should I do another coat of epoxy or go to the 2k next overtop of the filler? Maybe I will need to add more filler after the 2nd coat too.

My PPG dealer says he doesn't have the 2k primer in black he only has the gray. When I picked the white paint up he told me that the 91607 was not a good PPG number so he gave me WE5708 that he crossed from the 59664 DuPont code. It does not match, it is too white. I found this out after I sprayed the rear wheels. Has anyone had any trouble getting the 91607(935 white) in ShopLine? Maybe I need to switch brands?

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wet sanding epoxy is a waste of time, id give it a quick scuff with some 180 grit and the spread the mud on. wet sanding should only be done to high build primer to get it ready to paint.

Thank you sir. Now if I can get the time....

Todd,

I know I have bought the IH 935 white in PPG's Omni brand before and I think I have bought it in a Westin brand also in the past... Both were nice matches..

I used Valspar IH white equipment enamel on my 374 deck and was happy with the results.

Most of the 2k primers can be tinted a bit if you don't want the grey...

Like Tim said, sand that epoxy dry.... all you need is enough scuff to make the filler bond.

Have fun... if you are like me the time to do stuff with the cubs is scarce lately!:beerchug:

Thanks Jay,

I remember now, I wanted the 935 in Shop-Line and he said the number wasn't good. I wonder if he has it in Omni? Only problem now is I have 8 ply/23* Firestones on the rims and I about destroyed the rims getting them on. I will never buy 8 ply again but they were cheap on Ebay. I'm thinking I need to pull them off and repaint them the correct color.:angry: Maybe I need to order some IH paint from Messicks. This shouldn't be that difficult but that's what makes it fun.:biggrin2:

I know when I got the paint for my Original, I went to the PPG store and they mixed me up the Omni, and I was very happy with the results.
Seems odd, they can't do the 935 though.:bigthink:

Got a little more done on the deck over the weekend.

Spread some bondo on the pitted areas. I remember doing this when I lived in PA to all the cars I owned and I'm still no good at it.:biggrin2:
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I then sanded that with the DA and had a bunch of bare metal again so I shot another coat of epoxy on it. I guess that is okay? I still have some pitting visible.:angry:
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A few hours later I scuffed the epoxy with some dry 400 paper and shot some 2k primer on it.
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If I get some time this week I guess I need to spread a little more bondo and do some wet sanding.

Looks gooder from here Todd.:beerchug:
Just so you know. It's a garden tractor deck, not a hood or fenders...:biggrin2:

Looks good Todd!

I'm no good at spreading body filler either! I have a friend that makes it look so easy!:beerchug: He can spread it so fast and even that you hardly have to sand! Makes me sick!!:biggrin2::biggrin2:

Nice work, Todd!

I second the implied suggestion not to drive yourself nuts, unless this is a practice run for a sheet metal project. One thing I haven't figured out is what kind of CRAPPY steel Haban was using. The deck on my 2072 is pitted bad, I imagine the one under the 982 is just as bad (I kind of like the brown patina on it). Considering the amount of pitting on areas that don't have grass continually sitting on them, a normal Cadet deck would have rotted away to nothing. We've managed to rot away at least 3 bushhog decks over the years, but they saw a lot more service and were left out in the rain all summer (and not always cleaned off). Maybe its just me.:Huh:

Lookin Good Dr. Todd. :beerchug:

I got one that needs the same treatment when you are ready....:beer2:

Nice work Todd! :Bowdown2: Aren't those big ole things fun to work on! :beerchug: