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-   -   Another 682 With a blown K17 (https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=46334)

Texas Blues 10-20-2016 08:45 PM

Another 682 With a blown K17
 
Bought this from a guy who was straight up on the phone that said the motor was blown. I went and looked at it anyway because I wanted another Cub like my 1811. Sure enough the motor turned about 3/4's of a rev and clunked to a stop. Then saw the broken block on the right side. I bought it cheap, and its in great shape. I have read all the posts about the expense of rebuilding the motor vs a repower. I will get to all that in time. I just didn't want to pass up on a good condition 682. It is the series II, not sure why it blew, low oil maybe. Anyhow one more project! Keeps me out of the bars. Here is a few pics for those interested.

http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/...psobbcx8lm.jpg

http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/...pspqjbnkzj.jpg

http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/...pslw6ryghx.jpg

http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/...psbgsnwiiu.jpg

http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/...psic4izeoa.jpg

http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/...psi19z2ybj.jpg

And it would'nt be complete without the blown motor picture.

http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/...psjvbn36hq.jpg

Alvy 10-20-2016 08:49 PM

That's in excellent shape TB, minus the motor. You going to repower or rebuild? Good score none the less.

Texas Blues 10-20-2016 09:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alvy (Post 396886)
That's in except shape TB, minus the motor. You going to repower or rebuild? Good score none the less.

Thanks Alvy. I will explore both options in time. It's already evident that at a minimum, I will need a block (at least the right side), a rod, and probably a crank. I just don't know yet. Guys will say to throw it in the trash and repower, and that's a great idea, but it will have to wait. thanks, TB

john hall 10-20-2016 09:38 PM

Nice looking mower, certainly appears to have been taken care of. Maybe start scouring CL for another engine. I found a couple Older Craftsman mowers with 18 hp Magnums this summer that may be adequate donors (I've got a 682 with a ventilated crankcase also). Keep us posted on what you do with it.

Jibber 10-20-2016 10:37 PM

Very Nice!

cubcadet 10-21-2016 06:31 AM

Nice pickup!:beerchug:

ol'George 10-21-2016 08:33 AM

FWIW:
Crankcases are machined as a pair @ the factory, buying just one, is like cutting 2 apples and swapping halves and expecting them to match.:bigthink:

Texas Blues 10-21-2016 09:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ol'George (Post 396929)
FWIW:
Crankcases are machined as a pair @ the factory, buying just one, is like cutting 2 apples and swapping halves and expecting them to match.:bigthink:

Roger that ol'George, I'll keep that in mind. Thanks, TB

ACecil 10-21-2016 12:04 PM

Nice find on the 682!

Tom4981 10-21-2016 12:10 PM

What does repower mean?....It sure is in nice shape.

john hall 10-21-2016 12:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom4981 (Post 396977)
What does repower mean?....It sure is in nice shape.

In a nutshell, put in another engine. Normally because the one in the machine ain't worth fixing or you found a deal on a engine that was less money than you could fix yours. It can be putting back in the same model engine, or anything you can alter and make work--new or used.

J-Mech 10-21-2016 01:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom4981 (Post 396977)
What does repower mean?....It sure is in nice shape.

I'm going to expand a little on what John said.

Repower typically refers to replacing the engine with a different style or brand of engine. In this case going from a twin cylinder opposed Kohler to a V-Twin Vanguard for example. Could also mean going the other way, such as to a single cylinder 16hp.

Replacement would be replacing the current engine with a like motor. Same configuration and brand, but maybe just a newer model. Example would include going from a Series I KT17 to a Series II KT17. Still same basic power plant.

Rebuilding is obvious. You rebuild what you have.



In this case, repower is the most efficient choice as the parts availability and cost of parts for the KT engines is not "cost effective. Even making a switch to a used Mag 18 is a better choice than fixing the current motor.

FWIW, the damage to the block is indicative of a failed timing gear. Could possibly be a broken rod, but that hole is consistent with governor failure, a very common occurrence in that particular series engine.

Texas Blues 10-21-2016 08:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech (Post 396982)
I'm going to expand a little on what John said.

Repower typically refers to replacing the engine with a different style or brand of engine. In this case going from a twin cylinder opposed Kohler to a V-Twin Vanguard for example. Could also mean going the other way, such as to a single cylinder 16hp.

Replacement would be replacing the current engine with a like motor. Same configuration and brand, but maybe just a newer model. Example would include going from a Series I KT17 to a Series II KT17. Still same basic power plant.

Rebuilding is obvious. You rebuild what you have.



In this case, repower is the most efficient choice as the parts availability and cost of parts for the KT engines is not "cost effective. Even making a switch to a used Mag 18 is a better choice than fixing the current motor.

FWIW, the damage to the block is indicative of a failed timing gear. Could possibly be a broken rod, but that hole is consistent with governor failure, a very common occurrence in that particular series engine.

Yea Jmech, I confirmed that this K17 is blown to humorous proportions. This will not be a rebuild. It broke the castings on the jugs on both sides. Crank journals are ate up, rods are in there somewhere lol. And the block is broke. I will start the search for a repower option.

zippy1 10-22-2016 12:09 AM

Well it looks like it's got good bones anyway! Congrats...:beerchug:

Texas Blues 10-22-2016 10:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zippy1 (Post 397076)
Well it looks like it's got good bones anyway! Congrats...:beerchug:

Thanks zippy1. Only good thing about the motor now, is that I now have a lot of spare parts for my 1811, that has the M18.

Has anyone ever put a command pro 25 in a 682/782? I see one listed, but don't know if it will fit. I'm going to call the guy and see if he can tell me the exact model number of the motor because the listing is pretty vague. Thanks, TB

J-Mech 10-22-2016 10:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Texas Blues (Post 397098)
Thanks zippy1. Only good thing about the motor now, is that I now have a lot of spare parts for my 1811, that has the M18.

Has anyone ever put a command pro 25 in a 682/782? I see one listed, but don't know if it will fit. I'm going to call the guy and see if he can tell me the exact model number of the motor because the listing is pretty vague. Thanks, TB


Yes, they have. There is thread on here somewhere. Although, 25HP is not really necessary. Largest deck you can put on it is a 50". 18hp is large enough.... even stepping up to 20hp would be cool. I'm with Sam all the way. He usually says something like, just enough is not enough, a little more is better and too much is just right. While that is cool.... there is no need to spend the extra money unless it's just what you want. Last I checked, the 25hp engines were significantly higher than an 18hp.

Oak 10-22-2016 12:53 PM

How about one of these China specials? Anybody on OCC do one of these yet?
http://www.harborfreight.com/engines...epa-61614.html

Texas Blues 10-22-2016 06:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oak (Post 397115)
How about one of these China specials? Anybody on OCC do one of these yet?
http://www.harborfreight.com/engines...epa-61614.html

Hey Oak. I was just looking at that motor. It says the shaft is only 1" or 25.4 MM. My shaft measures about 1.125" or about 25.5 MM, so I dont think it will work. I might go to the local HF with my pto assy just to see if the specs are wrong. Also need to measure the mounting hole measurements on my mounting plate. That motor is supposed to be a Honda "knockoff". I would be interested in seeing if anyone has used that motor. TB

J-Mech 10-22-2016 07:16 PM

They make a sleeve for the crankshaft that will bump it up to the correct size. As far as I know, no one here has used one as of yet. Over on the Deere site I'm a member of, guys have put a few in with good results.

Texas Blues 10-22-2016 08:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech (Post 397155)
They make a sleeve for the crankshaft that will bump it up to the correct size. As far as I know, no one here has used one as of yet. Over on the Deere site I'm a member of, guys have put a few in with good results.

Thanks jmech that is good to know. I'll look into the adapter sleeve. I called the local HF and they said they had one on display. I might go check it out tomorrow. TB

Texas Blues 10-23-2016 02:52 PM

Just wanted to report back on the predator 22hp at HF. I went there this morning and I took my pto mounting plate to see if it would bolt on. It fits fine. With the crankshaft adapter sleeve jmech mentioned, it should work fine (the pto part at least).

The flywheel side has a main center bolt of course, but it also has a 3 bolt pattern flange of some sort, I couldn't really see it that good through the screen. An adapter would have to be found or fabricated for the drive shaft yoke, and there may already be one on the market for that application.

The bottom foot print bolt pattern is alot smaller than the KT17. some holes would have to be drilled in the mounting plate, no problem there as long as you get it square.

The predator says the shaft height is 5 1/4. My KT17 measures about 6 3/4, including the 1/2 shims that are under the KT17. So the predator would have to be raised, should not be a problem as long as the spacers provided a solid area to sit on.

Don't know what could be done about a muffler heat shield, or if the exhaust would need to be modified to fit under the hood.

The motor does seem to be pretty tall, I will have to put my hood back on and measure from the engine plate to the underside of the hood, and compare that to the height of the predator (I didnt measure the height while I was there), and as far as that goes, the inside width with the side covers on. I did not see a height or width listed on the predator.

That's about all I got right now. If I find out more I will report on it. Thanks TB

bleoh 10-25-2016 04:26 PM

I am in the early stages of looking into this as the M18 in my 1872 is probably at the end of its life. Smokes when cold and taking longer and longer to clear up, plus one plug is fouling with oil. Not sure I want to deal with doing a rebuild on it.

In some of my searches I have read something about possibly using a flywheel adapter from Small Engine Warehouse for a Honda re-power on the Predator engine. I can't confirm if this works though or if they even still sell it.

If it is okay with Texas Blues, would this be a good thread to ask about good donors for kohler vtwins in case someone decided to go that direction with a re-power? Other then just the engine power rating are there other factors that might make one model better then another? Such as driveshaft, PTO pulley size, ease of wiring, etc....

J-Mech 10-25-2016 06:10 PM

Kohler and Vanguard's require little modification on a repower. There used to be kits for Honda's. You can look up engines by application at Small Engine Warehouse.

CubDieselFan 10-25-2016 08:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech (Post 397482)
Kohler and Vanguard's require little modification on a repower. There used to be kits for Honda's. You can look up engines by application at Small Engine Warehouse.

Do you know why they stopped using the Honda's?

Texas Blues 10-25-2016 09:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech (Post 397482)
Kohler and Vanguard's require little modification on a repower. There used to be kits for Honda's. You can look up engines by application at Small Engine Warehouse.

Small Engine Warehouse only offers the Briggs vanguard as a replacement kit for the cub 682/782 (called them today). They say that Honda stopped warranting their motors on anything that the motor was not designed for, so SPW stopped selling them as a replacement kit for the cub 682. He also mentioned something about how honda changed to a positive ground on those motors? I did not ask the guy for complete details on the whole matter. They do still sell the flywheel adaptor they sold for the honda motors the used to sell for the cubs. He was pushing the vanguard as a "plug and play" option, which im sure it is. He mentioned the flywheel adaptor, the pto shaft adaptor, the engine mounting plate adaptor, and the proper wire harness connector already on the motor. I would have to save some money for that route, guy mentioned $1525.00 to my door. Im still looking for more options. TB

J-Mech 10-25-2016 09:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Texas Blues (Post 397498)
Small Engine Warehouse only offers the Briggs vanguard as a replacement kit for the cub 682/782 (called them today).

Listen.... that is all they "offer". Yakity smakity. They sell hundreds of engines. They have lots of motors that will fit. When the guy says the only "offer" the Vanguard, that means it's the only one they sell with a mounting plate that fits or adapters, driveshaft adapter, and whatever is needed for the PTO altogether in a one price setting. That isn't the only option they have, it's just a marketing thing.

I'm not a big fan of SEW.... but if you aren't a fab guy, they make it easy.
I found CH Kohlers on ebay that I think will work not long ago out of California for as low at like $1100 with $100 shipping. Some were lower, but I don't recall the specs.

Honestly, for a simple repower, there are lots of Cubs you can buy for nothing that you can take the motor out of. I happen to know for a fact a member here just bought a 2166(?) with a good engine that he is going to sell......

zippy1 10-25-2016 11:56 PM

Not everyone's cup of tea. But I spent the coin for the SEW replacement for my 1872, and couldn't be happier. To me it was money well spent, and would do it again in a new York minuet.:beerchug:
It's new, and not knowing what kind of maintenance was done on a used engine is a crap-shoot. Especially if you're buying it from another area and not hearing it run.
Unless you can find a whole tractor, listen to it, use it, and pull the goods for your transplant, your taking a chance.:bigthink: Your tractor/ your money.:beerchug:

Texas Blues 10-26-2016 10:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech (Post 397507)
Listen.... that is all they "offer". Yakity smakity. They sell hundreds of engines. They have lots of motors that will fit. When the guy says the only "offer" the Vanguard, that means it's the only one they sell with a mounting plate that fits or adapters, driveshaft adapter, and whatever is needed for the PTO altogether in a one price setting. That isn't the only option they have, it's just a marketing thing.

I'm not a big fan of SEW.... but if you aren't a fab guy, they make it easy.
I found CH Kohlers on ebay that I think will work not long ago out of California for as low at like $1100 with $100 shipping. Some were lower, but I don't recall the specs.

Honestly, for a simple repower, there are lots of Cubs you can buy for nothing that you can take the motor out of. I happen to know for a fact a member here just bought a 2166(?) with a good engine that he is going to sell......

I have been looking for donor cubs on CL, and EB ect. It seems that they are harder to find in these parts on CL, and in general. I have not given up on the idea of a used motor OR a new motor, just waiting on an opportunity to present itself. One guy on CL listed a CM pro 25 but did not include contact info, geeze man, why bother to post without it. TB

Cannon51 10-26-2016 12:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Texas Blues (Post 397536)
I have been looking for donor cubs on CL, and EB ect. It seems that they are harder to find in these parts on CL, and in general. I have not given up on the idea of a used motor OR a new motor, just waiting on an opportunity to present itself. One guy on CL listed a CM pro 25 but did not include contact info, geeze man, why bother to post without it. TB

Even when there's no phone number there is almost always an email link through CL.
Cannon

Texas Blues 10-26-2016 01:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cannon51 (Post 397544)
Even when there's no phone number there is almost always an email link through CL.
Cannon

Been there (CL) alot. In most cases yes there is a way to at least email the guy. In this case no. The only option is to tell craigslist to contact the guy via whatever email he provided when placing the ad, and they will tell him there is no contact info (asked them to do that 2 or 3 times). This email address is not revealed in the ad. Its an oddity that there is no info, but it is what it is. It just happens to be something I was looking for dangit! lol TB

Sam Mac 10-27-2016 08:03 AM

Here is a Mag 18
http://toledo.craigslist.org/grd/5822705711.html

Texas Blues 10-27-2016 03:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Mac (Post 397589)

Yep sam, that would be a good option. One will show up around here sooner or later. TB

Sam Mac 10-29-2016 06:48 PM

Here is another option for you.
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...814#post397814

Texas Blues 10-31-2016 08:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Mac (Post 397821)

Thanks sam, sent a pm to olds. TB


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