Stuck k341
 

Hey guys,
My new 169 has a stuck engine, it had plenty of oil in it, drained it out, no shavings or metal chunks, pulled the head, piston is down about an inch, cylinder looks good, no scoring, intake valve is all the way up and not stuck, exhaust valve is closed, tried turning the engine over with no luck, it's tight! Could the piston really be holding it this tight? If it isn't broken inside I'm thinking pull the rod cap and inspect everything and move rod out of the way and hit the piston down? I'll be pulling it out soon, thanks for any suggestions.

Spray around the piston with pb blaster and let it soak,

I have been with Kroil and MMO, may try some Diesel.

Pulled it apart, disconnected the rod, nothing broken or scored, crank is not moving, looks like it's time to come out and replace the bearings.

you should pull the flywheel off and see it there is something stuck behind it,if you hadn't already done so

I was wondering if it had balance gears in it?

Heard a story once (true) about a guy who had a motor lock up on an S-10 pickup. Undaunted, he tore it all down. About halfway though, he realized the motor wasn't stuck. He went ahead and tore it down and rebuilt it. Upon reassembly, he put it all back together, went to start it and it wouldn't turn over. Ended up removing the belt and found the alternator bearings seized tight.

Storal of the morey, check the obvious before you tear it down.... oops. Too late for that.

I had a K series engine this summer with that problem. A guy gave me the whole 1250 tractor because the engine was locked up by a mouse nest and other stuff behind the flywheel.

Like the OP, I pulled the head, then the pan. Then my light bulb came on. A little cleanup and the engine purrs like a new one.

Yes it has balance gears, I know better to check the obvious, I did, checked the starter bearing, it's fine, cleaned out the mouse nest, I will be pulling the flywheel.

:popcorn::popcorn:

Shouldn't be too bad of a job, anyone know about reinstalling and timing the balance gears? Gonna check them, and get out the service manual.

dont....really.... i have a guy that just made mandrels to balance k series engines on his balancer if you dont want it to shake that bad....but its a single..and luckily most of the kohler cranks have holes in the weights, and i dont have money to go looking through old big block motors out in the rain for heavy metals...he used to balance little briggs and honda cart motors that would spin up to 10k rpms, (he also built drag race engines in the 50s 60s 70s..... but his mandrels wouldnt fit the k series, so he had a friend make some different ones for the k series crank... i was gonna offer it as a service here soon once we get it perfected...like i said about the holes too, cheaper than ones that need heavy metals....let me know if interested..?
mike

just my opinion

thanks for the info Mike, sounds good.

So.... a mandrel is basically a shaft. How does a mandrel balance an engine, and why would a bone stock "low" RPM engine need balanced? Hell, I take balance gears out when I rebuild them and so do 80% of others who rebuild them regularly.

:popcorn:

Got the pto off, along with the bearing, got the basket pulley set screws out, I drove the key way back as much as I could, still not coming off.

You do know there should be two set screws in each hole? One on top of the other?

Did you pull the flywheel?

Mike, he says he got the PTO off. Basket pulley is what sounds like is stuck. Only two set screws in it. No stacked ones.

You need the puller Jeff makes for the pulley.

Yes the pto is off and the pulley set screws are out, the flywheel is still on, that puller would be useful right about now.

Yeah, went brain dead.

Engines free, loosened flywheel and it turns, assuming something is holding it like the mouse nest.

shudda done that first.but how we learn from are misteaks is what it is.....

Yes I know, thanks for the good advice.

look at the flywheel rear close around the taper on the back side. I've seen them crack in that area a few times. once the tapper opens up the flywheel moves in closer to the bearing plate

Thanks Don, I'll take a look.

Flywheel is fine, mouse nest is all gone, it was pretty bad, put it back on and all is well, here is a pic of the bearing plate after cleaning it, it is still alittle rough looking from all the corrosion.

I hate mice. Found a little one today trying to get into the shop, grabbed the little bugger and delivered it to the cat lady next door. Figure it has become part of the food chain. :beerchug:

Glad you got it free Mr. Nick. Bet it smelled BAD. :biggrin2:

That's a good one on the mouse Sam, I don't like them either, yes it smelt BAD, here's some progress pics, enjoy!:beerchug:

More pictures, still have to de carbon everything and clean it all up but it all looks fine and turns freely!:beerchug:

Getting there

Another pic, and that is all for today, I'm happy!

Ya Done Good Grasshopper! (soda for you) :beerchug:

Thanks Sam!

Glad you got it. Must have been quite a mouse nest :bash2:

Mouse pee is the worst, corrosive as all get out. Bought a 2165 that the owner thought was locked up, turned out that the mouse pee had rusted the flywheel to the Mags. Talk about stinky and nasty. I hate mice. :biggrin2:

Yes it was unbelievable. I should have took some before pics.

Got the basket pulley loose and it's coming off!:beerchug:
Anyone know the tap size for the bearing collar set screw hole?

Where is "there" Nick?
Doing good Nickster.:beerchug:

To completion, reinstalled basket pulley and put anti seize on the set screws and cleaned the points.
Thanks

Oh, there...:bigthink:

Update:
Cleaned out the carb, it was pretty dirty, cleaned up the head, just have to sand it, cleaned out the threads in the bearing collar and installed it and the bearing along with the pto, installed the anti rattle clips too, put anti seize on all the set screws, making progress, hopefully after the weekend it'll be running, got my new head gasket, waiting on some more parts.