1811's turn in the shop
 

Well the shop needs a good cleaning, but what fun is that?:biggrin2: So I decided it was time to pull the 1811 in the shop. To recap, I bought this thing in January to use this summer (guess that idea didn't work as planned). Anyway, the rear end is full of water and you guys helped me figure out a plugged hydro filter is why it wouldn't drive very far. I put on an old filter, hydro worked great, just never had time to pull the rear to clean it out. So over the last 10 months I've picked up axle seals, tube, plate, and pump gaskets, and springs for the trunion. Oh yeah, some Deere Hy-Gard for the rear---No I haven't been to an IH dealership in a very long time. Called dad when I got off work and told him to be ready to take it to the shop this afternoon. We dove right in and pulled the fenders and side shields so we could wash it off. I am quite surprised to see what appears to be new rag joints and what looks to be a recently replaced Trunion---NO WEAR!!! I hosed it all down and brought it back inside. Maybe tomorrow I can pull the rear end.

Anybody know what the cut wire in the photo was for? Did the harness have wires in it for rear PTO (even if the machine didn't have it)

Looks to be in good shape!

Rear PTO was not available on an 1811. Looks like the wire got the end cut off. Likely ran a new one. I'd guess that one is dead. Check it to be sure. Probably a bad wire or the end went bad. Who knows....

I'll have to look again, but I believe that wire is coming straight out of the harness? I haven't looked behind the dash very close but did notice the back up switch was disconnected. I also think the PTO switch was acting funny. Hopefully I won't be getting into a bunch of PO hacking and splicing. The rear lights were hooked up, the seat safety switch was not. I'll tackle the rear end first, then check electrical as we go back together with it.

By the way, this things seems to steer easier than other Cadets we have. It takes 3 revolutions to cover the range of motion. Is the steering box geared differently than older machines for easier steering?

1811 has a "3 turn" steering box. The older machines used a "2 turn" box. So.... yeah. It's geared different. :beerchug:

Don't know how odd the steering will seem when mowing but its great just driving it around. Given dad's age and troubles with his back I think he's really going to like it!

The three turn box definitely makes steering easier, I have tri ribs on my 1211 and it's just as easy as power steering.

Nice ride John!! I've never been lucky enough to tear into one with new rag joints and no trunion wear!!:biggrin2::biggrin2:

Every since I discovered the 3 turn CCC steering box I don't use anything else! I transplanted one in my 1450 and 128... they both drive like power steering!:biggrin2:

Now what exactly did I do to you to give me ideas like that???:biggrin2: You know, there is the burnt up 1810 sitting under dad's garage, and the 128 we use at my house. If the fire didn't absolutely ruin the steering box......Well, I may just have to do some investigating:bigthink:

Big dilemma, can't decide whether to tear the rear apart or not just to clean it. When I pulled the filter off back in the winter, everything was thick and kind of caramel colored. I just assumed everything inside would be the same. I drained the fluid this afternoon, kind of caramel colored but I have seen worse. Dad actually drove this thing around a bit this summer before I reminded him we really shouldn't until the fluid was changed. I'm wondering if the water and oil mixed, assuming it was a GOOD oil such as Hy-tran and not dime store wood splitter oil. The oil smelled a little odd, but primarily like hydraulic oil. All the seals and gaskets are here to pull the tubes and the pump. Take a look at the pics, I am assuming that is some sort of wax/paraffin additive from the oil?

Here is what we found in the fuse holder for a fuse:bigeyes:

That stuff that looks like paraffin is encapsulated water from the hy-tran. It's doing what it was designed to do.

That doesn't look like a fuse...... :bigeyes: :biggrin2::biggrin2:

Hy-tran did it's job.:beerchug:
Plastic scrapper and rags, NOT PAPER TOWEL, and you'll be good for another ?? years.:beerchug:

200 amp Slo-blow :biggrin2:

Nice fuse. It always amazes me what people call."good-e-nuff".:bigeyes:

I love the fuse!!:biggrin2::biggrin2: I thought I had seen it all!

The Hytran was doing a good job containing the moisture.. I'm sure that's what stopped up your filter.

I'd rinse it out and go again... change the filter several times next year maybe.. Just my opinion!:biggrin2:

I know it's a lot of work but you may want to pull the rear out and remove the axle tubes. You'll be surprised at how much water you will find trapped in them. Other option is to pull the axles and use a suction gun to get most of it out, just make sure you have a hose that you can work down to the lower part of the tube. Oh and change the axle seals, even if they are not leaking they are past due.

Must be heavy duty stuff with a life time warranty.:biggrin2:

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/a...1&d=1478829498

Redneck hillbilly's fix...:bash2:

OK, it was kind of cold (by Southern definition), heat was running in the shop, and there wasn't ANY field work that this weekend farmer needed to do. So we tore into the rear end. There was quite a bit of water in the axle tubes, it appeared to have separated. I tried to mop the rear out with the ring gear in it but wasn't having much luck so I pulled it out so I could get at it better. At lunch I came to the house and pulled up "drilling axle tube drains" and went back to do so, no more water in the tubes for me:biggrin2:. Dad was quite surprised by all the water, and didn't even protest my drilling the case. All he said was something about 23 years at work and they never ran into this. He was having fun wrenching on the Cadet---even volunteered to help scrape gaskets off----dang what did they put on those things at the factory? Ring gear is back in, axles tubes need mopping out, flushing bearing, and new seals and then we can reassemble. The cork gasket wasn't leaking, but dad picked the whole thing off real easily and nodded in approval to changing it.

Looks good. You may want to drill a vent at the top of the case. makes it much easier to fill with oil. I drill and tap the case, put a brass hose adapter in it and a short hose with a little fuel filter then loop it so the end is facing down to keep water and dirt out.

Neat idea Sam. If our welder at work wasn't out of town for a couple weeks I may would also consider welding a pipe fitting in the rear cover. If nothing else I'll stand the rear on its back and pour in the oil before I put the pump on. Anybody ever tried running a small tube in the filler pipe while pouring the oil in to provide a vent for the air?

I have. It's still slow. Sam's idea is the best.

Sounds like you had an awesome day with the Cub and your dad!

I second Sam's idea about the vent! It works great!:biggrin2:

Also think it was a really good idea to do the cork seal! No way I would go near that far without doing one...even if it wasn't leaking at the moment:biggrin2:

keep up the good work! All looks great! you will have a reliable workhorse when you get done!:beerchug::beerchug:

X2 on the cork gasket, it's way past it's due to leak date.

John, drilling and tapping the top of the case for a vent is the way to go.

One thing we discovered yesterday--the tires are loaded! I keep an old set of bathroom scales at the shop to calibrate the planter and grain drill. I decided to weigh the tires--both came in at 95lb. I don't think it will spin cutting grass!:biggrin2: I knew something was up as when I took it for a test drive after I bought it. I would go full speed in one direction and then switch direction as fast as I could (in gravel so it could slip)---well with all that weight and traction I only did it a couple times, that sucker will bite! Dad looked and it doesn't appear the guy used tubes:bash2: Guess I'll have to see what fluid is in there and go from there.

Attachment 80510Finally got back to the 1811. Put the rear back together and back in yesterday. Everything went nice and boring (which is a good thing!). One of the more aggravating things to me is getting the 6 mounting bolts back in the rear, after you get a couple started its not that bad. The other thing that can be a little aggravating is hooking up the pedal return spring. I left the lock nut off the front bace bolt that doubles as a place to hook the spring. Hooked the spring on the pin at the front, ran a loop of electric fence wire over the other end of the spring and out the back of the Cadet to a big screwdriver. This one was light enough I could pull it with one hand and slip it into place with a different screwdriver. Dad taught me this trick for springs many years back, you just have to sometimes use several loops of wire depending on the strength and always be prepared for something to break or slip off--in other words stay out of the line of fire!

I did find the bushings on the shaft that actuates the brakes are gummy. Appears to be a welded assy. I'm going to drop the 4 bolts so I can slide the bushing down the shaft and polish things up a bit so the pedal will return on its own. It appears it may have been dragging a little on the brakes, some uneven wear on the pads. I pulled the calipers apart and cleaned everything up including sanding the pads to bust any glaze. I wire brushed the brake discs before putting them back in the rear end.

Looks Great John! Funny thing.... my dad taught me the same trick with the wire and spring!:biggrin2::biggrin2: He told me it was a trick he learned in the army!? But that is what he always told me when he showed me something!!:beerchug::beerchug: I believed him until I was in my mid teens!:biggrin2::biggrin2:

Got to spend more time with the 1811 yesterday. For starters I pulled the brake shaft bracket (1 side at a time), slid the bronze bushing down the shaft an inch or so (not easy) and polished the pivot area with sandpaper. Put one side back together and then did the other. I'll give credit for using bronze, nothing should rust and seize. However they hardly have any clearance so the shaft itself rusts and the whole works get gunky, so now nothing pivots. Regardless of the design, its only about a 15-20 minute repair--easier with tunnel cover off so you can see bolts. I did note there is so much slop in the brackets that you may have to get them snug and then tap them square with a hammer, otherwise they can be bolted in crooked enough bind the shaft--been there.:bash2:
On to the electrical. To make things easier, I knew the PO had carb trouble so I pulled the fuel tank to drain it--good thing because it had some trash and a bad fuel outlet grommet. So the reverse switch had the arm missing, but then both wires were unplugged. The small red wire to the solenoid that passes through the clutch switch had been cut and discarded at the solenoid. A new wire had been run from the solenoid almost to the key switch where the other end of the cut red wire had now been skinned so the new wire could be spliced in.:bash2: A quick test proved the clutch switch was bad. So I removed the new wire, taped back up the skinned area of the good wire and added a 6" extension to where it was cut so it could be hooked up proper. Made a jumper to bypass the clutch switch and taped it up until I can get one. Hooked the reverse switch back up--a little testing required as the switch can be normally open or closed depending on which of the 3 terminals you hook the 2 wires onto. Amazing everything works and all the guy needed to have done was tie the 2 wires at the safety switch together to get it to crank instead of all the work he did.:bash2: No wonder these idiots had a 1/4" bolt in place of a fuse.:bigeyes:

Next attention was turned to the engine. Pulled the top muffler shield and the head shields (as best as we could) Things were fairly clean but I was able to blow out a lot of gunk with a long air gun. You can really get to the starter side and the front but the oil filter side, not so much without pulling the lines--I ain't doing that unless I see a lot of trash. Flywheel seal not leaking but the one on the PTO is--got to get one ordered. Put the tins back on and installed an inline fuel valve--we have gone to keeping the fuel shut off, valve under the tanks isn't designed for accessing every time you put the mower away.
Changed oil and filer--it took a 1/2" pull handle to break the drain plug loose:bigeyes:. Not surprising it was a fair amount of effort to get the filter off with channelocks. Dumped in some IH Low Ash and a Napa filter. Still had to put the fenders and seat back on. After that it was show time. Tried a slight bit of adjusting on carb, no luck so I'm going to pull and clean it and put a kit in.

I did drive it around a lot,, hydro is amazing, probably the best one we have. Those loaded ag tires make it drive completely different than any lawn mower I have ever parked my rear on. Twice I did a wheelie taking off from a standstill on flat ground. Certainly going to have to use some sense driving this one. Considering where I want to mow with this one, all that traction is going to be perfect.

No pics for the day, just progress. I did bring the 50C deck into the shop. Its going to take more parts than I planned for but should be nice when done.

Looks like I'm going to need a set of pulleys. The center is rusted through, the outers look too rough, I'm afraid they will destroy a belt. I only saw one center pulley in the parts book, is there a speed up pulley offered for a 50C?

There was no speed up pulley offered for any of the CC decks. But some decks had more pulley options because they were meant for different tractors. It just so happens that one of them will speed it up if used on the right (wrong) tractor.

Yes only one pulley for the 50C.

Ordered up a bunch of deck parts yesterday along with a carb kit and a crank seal. Napa called me today to inform me that the seal is ODD, so odd that they had to order it from the manufacturer and freight was going to be expensive. (this is the same NAPA that had a master cylinder for my 40 year grain truck on the shelf this fall). When I told him what it fits he said no problem, we are a Kohler dealer--but he still had to order it.:bash2: Just as well, between shopping and getting together with family and cold weather, I ain't getting no shop time in anyway.:BlahBlah:

Cold weather? You are funny! My forecast:High temp Sat 7deg. Low temp -16deg

Now you know us Southern boys got to turn some heat on if it ain't 60 deg in the shop!:biggrin2:

Finally got some shop time today. Finished tearing the deck apart. The rust is far worse than I realized. Where the hangar brackets bolt is thinned out along the edge from pretty heavy corrosion. This allowed the deck to bow upward. I made a 1/4 x 3 plate to go under the deck that runs across both hanger brackets--had to remove the blade baffle for this (I'll put it back when I am done). Got a large steel block (12 x 8 x 3) that I put under the deck so I could hammer down the bowed area without kinking it somewhere else. Although the deck cover is missing, it looks like all the corrosion and rust occurred with the cover on. To begin used a hard grinding stone in a hand grinder followed by a different grinder with a flap wheel. Fortunately it was 70 deg today because this was certainly an outdoor job due to the mess. The deck is pretty bad regarding pitting, but it's the only 50C I have so I'm going for it. I thought about getting it sandblasted but think its too damaged for my friends blaster--he's set up to cut cemetery markers--probably too aggressive for my compromised sheet metal. I may still have him clean it up--gently. I've got a bit of welding to do where one of the wheel brackets cracked beside all its welds. When all repairs are made I'll finish cleaning and treat the areas with Rust-Mort, then spray can some primer and paint. Need to order some new decals.

I did get a the new gas gauge style cap put in today!:biggrin2: It occurred to me that when the float is halfway the gauge reads half full (empty). Sounds logical until you look at the tank and realize how irregularly shaped these things are! :bash2:You can run forever on a 1/2 tank, but when you hit 1/4 you better head for refill. Maybe one of you enterprising fellows that likes to think real hard can make a new guide with a variable helix that will truly indicate how much fuel is in the tank. Until then we'll head to the pump when it hits 1/4 tank.

New carb kit, crank seal, air filter, and clutch pedal switch are still in the box--along with all the deck pulleys and belt.

Looks good John. Yes, we are having some crazy weather here too. I think it was in the upper 60's today and it will be near 70 here tomorrow. I don't like cold weather.:biggrin2:

If you didn't grind that "danger" sticker off in the 2nd picture could you take a close up pic of it? I need that decal for the Haban deck I'm doing and it is NLA. I'm going to see if I can get some made up.

NLA???:bash2: Yeah I ground it away. I just checked and the decals I found for a 50C appear to be for an IH built deck. Well that SUCKS! I'll start looking for replacement decals--I'll let you know what I find. If you can't do any better I'll email you the pic I do have. I know its not the greatest, I mainly took it so I would know where the decals went. Here is one other--yes I made it go away as well. I'll Look on my Haban and see if I put new decals on it, been so long ago I can't remember.

OK, worked on the tractor today and not the deck. Installed the PTO side seal. My old one was all crooked inside the bore--what gives?:bigthink: There is not land for these to stop against, but you can drive them plenty deep, think I measured 3/4 of land, seal is about 3/8. The seal had been replaced before--guy used blue silicone on the outside. This time I put some anaerobic sealant on the OD--maybe it will help it sit still? I could see a slight ring in the block where the seal--probably the original--used to be. Didn't feel like it had spun in the housing but something sure left a mark, maybe more of a stain? I turned down/faced and old exhaust pipe off a Farmall M for an installation tool.

Looked under the belly for some reason and noticed the mesh debris screen was broke so pulled it off for repair. While at it I couldn't resist, had to try snugging up the steering. I don't know why I do it, unless the steering is horrible a slight movement of the cam follower is usually too much due to the wear. If I ever have it apart I'll address the cam follower wear then.

While doing all this that's when I saw the rockshaft.:bash2: Holy Cow is that thing worn where the pcs that lift the deck hook up!:bigeyes: Pins are dang near worn in 1/2 and into the clip pin holes. Looks like unhook the cylinder and drive out the 2 roll pins and it should slip apart? It looks like the fenders will have to come back off to get it out. I'm asking here guys--what am I not seeing and does this thing slip apart like talking about or is it a real bear?

Front wheels sounded like a roulette wheel--time to grease the bearings. I had to DRIVE the wheels off the spindles--rusted in place, go figure. I was able to take my needle injector for the grease gun and go thru the bore to get in the crack by the inner race of the bearing on the other side and pump them full of grease. Cleaned the spindles and got them put back together. Now that I know you can grease the wheels this way, I need to do both my Supers.

While the PTO was off I had to wire brush and sand the heck out of the pulley so it didn't eat the belt. Noticed the bearing was a little rough. I was able to get the injector in that and grease it as well.

Now time to put in the carb kit I ordered from NAPA. Not so fast, they sent the wrong kit, its not the one I ordered. I'll try to sort that out today and verify part numbers. Think they just gave dad the wrong kit. The last guy to work on it used some sort of glue to hold the bowl on--musts have taken 5 minutes to get the bowl off. Its not silicone.

Sounds like the PO was a mechanic wanna-be. :biggrin2:

The rockshaft looks so easy to remove doesn't it?? It's not. While I have never needed to remove one, several people on here have..... sometimes they end up cutting it to get it out. Your a machinist, so maybe you will have more patience, and know how to properly "heat and beat". You know the story... most guys heat too slow, then heat too much, then beat too much, then heat again. By that time everything is so hot and swelled up it wouldn't matter if it was a slip fit, it ain't movin'. Drive the pins out, sand all the paint off, soak it in Kroil and come back in a few days. Bet it comes apart. If not, well.... you know what to do. :biggrin2:

On the seal, my gut says it was installed crooked. Lasted as long as it was going to. If it didn't leak from the get go. I never want the new seal riding where an old one was so I try to get it in a different spot. Works good when they give you a 3/8" thick seal with a 3/4" deep groove. :biggrin2:
I use anaerobic sealer on the outside of seals most of the time. Usually helps hold them in place. :beerchug:

The carb kits for those carbs are kind of weird when you get them. Is your an adjustable jet, or fixed? I think the carb's with the fixed jet don't have a removable needle valve seat.... :bigthink:


Overall, sounds like you are going through it right. :ThumbsUp:

Didn't work on the 1811 today but did some research on removing the rockshaft. Searched the forum and it appears the rockshaft assembly is made a little different on the older ones? I pulled up a parts diagram on a 128 and it appears there are individual pcs on the actual rockshaft. Therefore if nothing wants to move, you could maybe cut out the center section of the actual rockshaft and bring everything out in pcs. This one appears to be one big welded assembly according to the parts book. A quick inspection this afternoon makes me agree with that. I'm hoping its not the same bore size all the way through, hopefully the center piece has a larger bore then the ends are welded in place. Considering drilling a hole in the center and pumping in grease/light oil. Hopefully get the right carb kit tomorrow so at least it will be running before I tear into anything else.

John,
The rockshaft pins on my early 1782 looked just that bad... the rockshaft didn't want to cooperate so I had to regroup... Wound up taking some time but I just hoisted the tractor up and layed under it with a wire welder... built the pins up a little at a time and with some careful grinding I got the pins back round again.. had to drill one hairpin clip hole back out because I got too close with the welder.. Took some time but turned out nice and I didn't have to remove the rockshaft!:beerchug:

Looking good... keep us posted!!:American Flag 1: