No spark
 

If it aint one thing its another. Blizzard comes, Cub with plow loses spark. Driveway drifting over...

How do I test the coil, first of all? Pretend I'm an electrical dummy armed only with an analog meter and little knowledge on how to effectively use it.

I would first start by making sure your getting power to the coil, touch the black wire to ground and the red wire to the positive post on the coil with the key on, you should be getting around 12v.

I can only guess that you're talking about your 108.

Olds is right, make sure you have power to the pos side of the coil when the key is in the "on" position.

Presuming the coil is good, check the neg side of the coil, when the points are open the neg side of the coil should show 12v, when the points are closed the neg side should show zero volts.

The same should be true at the points end of the coil to points wire.

In my experience, when a Kohler K series loses spark all of a sudden, it's either a bad wire (power not getting to the coil or to the points) the points are crudded up, wet, a bug has built a nest in the point box or some similar such thing.

It's also been my experience that when a coil starts to go bad, it usually causes the engine to "cut out" when the coil gets warm as the engine is running.

FWIW, this kind of thing only happens when you need them most.

Good Luck, we're all rooting for you.

I agree, any time I have a Kohler that doesn't get spark I always go to the points first and 95% of the time that's the issue. If your getting power to the coil I would try a piece of fine sandpaper between the points to clean them up.

Yes its my 108 and its a fairly new Stens coil that cut out suddenly when running yesterday. Fortunately I still have the old coil, which was still working when I replaced it cuz it was ancient.

Coil does have 12v getting to it so I guess its on to the points.

If I'm doing it right, I'm not getting 12v on the negative side of the coil. One lead to the engine, one lead to the negative terminal (and/or the points end of the points wire) with the key on and points open. Nothing. Wires seem good. Pos side still shows 12v.

You either have an open coil our a short to ground on the points side of the coil.

Open coil? Que?

Open coil = bad coil. Disconnect the point wire at the coil and check for 12 volts on the coil terminal. If you have it now then the wire to the points is shorted somewhere between the coil and points. If not, the coil is bad, try your old one.

Looks like a bad coil then, I'm not getting anything with the points wire disconnected either. Are Stens crappy coils? It can't have more than 20 hours on it. Should be under warranty.

I'll bet it's not the coil.
Try this:

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=11

I've replaced way more condensers and points than coils.
Used Stens coils with no issues

Oh wait...memories starting to come back. I replaced the coil a few months ago because the old one was leaking, although it was still workking.

This one isn't leaking but it also isn't working. Could something have fried both of them in different way or is this probably just a coincidence?

Just a thought: The wire leading to the points might look fine, but you ought to check where it runs through the metal clip that is fastened to the cam cover, if your 108 still has it. I noticed many times that the wire insulation can be cracked in there letting current leak, and you'd never see it cracked. Usually by now, those wires need taped up good or replaced.

On my model 71, I had the slightest crack in the condenser insulation at the seal where the wire went in to the condenser. That would attract a little moisture and it would be game the #$%^ over every time, complete shut down of a running engine.

How's the points look?

I didn't see this till after my last post. Gotta go to work so I'll try that tomorrow (if I can figure out what its telling me...I only had time for a glance). Too bad I got it out already...


Points looked OK to me, although I didn't look at them with a magnifier. The points wire does have a break in the insulation about halfway along its length.

Make sure you are on clean, unpainted, metal on the engine, or use the neg pole of the battery.

None of the wires should be hooked to the engine as ground. Come on guys. :bash2:

I think they are talking about the negative lead on the volt meter when he's checking for voltage.

Yup. I'm using the same spot I use for the lead when the meter shows 12v on the pos. side of the coil, and I always test the pos side before and after to make sure.

If you have power to the pos side of the coil (with the key on) and you can not get power at the neg side of the coil (even with the neg side wire removed) I believe your coil is bad.

You can check the coil with your meter as outlined in the link above.

Roland post this in the technical library section....
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=11

PS: test done with all wires removed.

Ha crap! Terry already post that link..:bash2:

PPS: if you don't have a Kohler OEM coil find the spec of your after market coil to compare with.

Just a thought... is it possible that the coil that you used is a coil that requires a ballast resistor?

If so (and you didn't use a ballast resistor) the coil could have burned out.

Is it also possible that someone left the key on in this tractor for an extended period of time with the engine not running?

The coil supposedly has an internal resistor. Its possible I left the key on but I don't recall finding it that way any time recently, so i don't think I did.

OK I did those tests on both coils. Results:

New Stens Coil:

+ to - = infinity
+ to tower = 10
case to any terminal = infinity



Old leaky coil:

+ to - = 0 ohms
+ to tower = ~ 9
case to any terminal = infinity

Coil appears to be open, time for a new one

It is a new one. :angry: Guess it's used now. :ExtremeFunny:

Different grades of chinesium last longer than others. Im sure they will warranty it for you if it's that recent.

I'd put the old one back on. Replacing it just because it was old is kind of silly if it was still working. Why didn't you just change the whole engine? It's probably the same age......

Why don't you read the whole thread? :BlahBlah: The old one was leaking.

Why don't you give all the info at one time instead of spreading it out over 15 posts? That way we don't have to guess so much. :Unknown:

I'd still put the old one back on and see if it runs.

Chinese crap...Time to get a new "Good" one and test it before installation.:rolleyes:

PS: Jon forget to mention...Find 32oz ball pen and give a big "Wack" to the old coil, this way you be sure he never leak again. :ScrewLoose: :biggrin2:

I have spark with the old coil. Not sure how wise it is to run it with a leaky coil though. I might not have any choice on Wednesday when it snows again, because I won't be able to get a new coil by then.

Amazon Prime (have it tomorrow if you're willing to pay next day shipping)

https://www.amazon.com/Stens-460-048...+coil+k+series

(I know that may not be the exact one you need, but they should have it)

The oil is for cooling. Worst case it burns up the widings. I doubt it's leaked out enough to be an issue seeing as how they are mounted upright.

That's the one I bought recently that just died. I'll probably give a replacement a try under warranty, since I have my old one as a backup for emergencies.

Any suggestions for "real" ones if the replacement fails too? I confirmed these are Chinese.

Lots of guys run the Bosch Blue coils with no issues. You can get them at most part stores, or several online vendors.

I use Napa coils, Prime Line or even Borg Warner with no issues. Just make sure you get the correct coil. You need an internal resisted with about a 3.5 OHM rating if memory serves.

NAPA coil number is IC64 if interested.

I've got a 1810 not sure of the year and I also have no spark, I see that I need to check the coil but can't seem to find it. There seems to be a lot of flashing covering the motor and hiding where the coil wires go. I doubt its ever been replace. Where is the coil located?

OK, first of all your tractor is a CCC/MTD so you should start a thread in that section. Second your tractor has a magneto, not a coil. It is located under the blower housing. You will pretty much need to remove the engine to get at it. You should have a white wire someplace on the engine harness that grounds the mag to shut the engine off, if you disconnect it and crank the engine and it starts then the problem is someplace else. If it won't fire then get ready to pull the engine and have a look under the tin work.

Here are 2 manuals you should download.

Mag 18 http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=4648

Chassis service http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=13226

Thanks man, not sure what CCC/MTD is but I see the white wire as it runs down with the spark plug wires. I'll disconnect it from the accessible side and see what happens. If no start then I'll just continue my search for a 4WD and plow to get me through the winter.

You tagged on to a thread that exists in the IH built section. Yours was built after Cadet was spun off to MTD and Cub Cadet Corporation was formed. You'll most likely get more views and responses by starting a thread in the proper section.