Kubota and 2182 temp gauge
 

Hey there,

I've read that most people are tapping a hole on the water pump housing to add a water temp sensor and adding a water temp gauge. I also read someone with a D600 engine used a gauge and the existing idiot light sensor instead of adding one. Has anyone tried adding a electronic water temp gauge with the existing sensor before? I'd rather pay a little more for a gauge that would work with the existing sensor verses tapping a new hole if possible.

Here is the water pump housing that I tapped for water temp non digital gauge. 2182-first serial number break.

Sam Mac might have a picture of the spot in front of the head behind the battery which you remove a plug and put the factory sending unit right in. I can't find a picture of it at the moment.

So another possibile location to add the sensor? That would be cool too. I hate having to take apart the thermostat housing and tap it when it's all nice and sealed. Unless someone knows off hand the thread type the current temp sensor is. I know they make all kinds of adapters to get it to npt threads.

Well.... if there was, people wouldn't tap the housing. That is the best place for a sensor. Get out your drill.

Here this may or may not help. Although, you have a tendency not to listen to Sam.....
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...4&postcount=22

Again, I'm not sure why you would insinuate why I don't listen to Sam. I have contacted him on several occasions and value his opinion and insight.

Also, just because you don't know where to look, doesn't mean something doesn't exist. For instance, just one kit on Amazon: Includes 5 Brass Adapters: 1/8 Inch - 27 NPT to (M10x1, M12x1.5, M14x1.5, M16x1.5 and 1/8 - 28 BSP. I believe someone mentioned at one point it was British threads, which is the BSP. I prefer to work smart, not hard, when possible.

https://www.amazon.com/9848-Pressure...NK36KTZZSS650S

You wouldn't listen to Sam on installing the braces HE DESIGNED.

Yeah.... I don't know where to look. I've been turning wrenches a long time, and I owned my own shop for 15 years. I know where to find parts. Your the one asking questions....


Attachment 80509

I pulled the water sensor out and it is definitely 1/8". Since other people had said they thought it was british thread, and british and npt are so close they will thread together, but not seal, I'm going to guess it is bsp thread. Once I figure out what gauge package I go with, I'll get an adapter to convert the bsp to npt threads and let everyone know how it goes. Hopefully it will avoid having to retap the threads.

If you go with any mechanical gauge, you won't be able to get the temp sensor bulb into the fitting. If you go with an electronic gauge, you will likely have trouble finding a sensor for the BSP thread. If you use an adapter.... you will find that the same issue as stated above. Tapping something is inevitable. Feel free to post your findings.

:popcorn:

Well, I bought a electric temp gauge from Amazon for $12. Pulled the old sensor and tried that with the gauge and it didn't work. The new sensor worked fine. I also checked and had some adapters that were the British BSP 1/8" thread that some people on here have said was the type of the old sensor, but I checked and checked again and my thermostat housing is the standard 1/8" NPT pipe thread. None of the 1/8" BSP threaded fittings would fit in the housing. So it was a direct fit because the gauge came with a 1/8" sending unit. No drilling and tapping required.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Did the sensor come with the guage?

Yes. The sensor came with it. No wires though. Have to wire it to a hot wire, ground and to the sensor.

Hope you have enough room to fit a set of 2" gauges in the tower. I made that mistake on my first 2182 and had to fab up a panel to replace the area where the idiot lights go. It was a major PITA. That's why I now use 1-1/2" gauges. The 1-1/2" gauges fit nice just above the boot for the tilt steering. I've sent you pics on how I did it. Here is a pic of my first 2182 with electric gauges. For whatever it's worth I used marine gauges and senders that I got from Summit Racing. The black panel was made from a piece of 1/4" Lexan painted black on the back side.

I wondered why that picture looked different. These will just fit under the lip of metal on the backside. I had a hard time finding them with electric sensors but really wanted 1-1/2". I have the one gauge in but the other two are coming from a different vendor so I'm going to wait until they come in to drill those holes.

I forgot that I did run a 1/8" NPT pipe tap through the thermostat housing first. The new sensor was going in a little hard and it looked like the old sensor had threads that were a little shallow. The tap took off just a hair. I could twist it in by hand except for about the last 2 turns I put a handle on it. Then the new sensor went in fine. I have no idea what kind of threads would have the same per inch as 1/8" npt but be shallow, but oh well. It tightened up just fine.

Dammit....I keep forgetting to turn my phone sideways when taking pictures otherwise they don't posts right on here...my bad. (fixed it, you owe me, Sam Mac)

TJ: I just started to have an issue with TEMP Light come on my 2182. Glad, for internet; I found your post. Gauge you used not available, brass fittings to adapt gauge to therm. housing are. Not looking forward to this task, since, I'm on the road so much now. May have to find a local lawn mech. to do it. Now I''m two mowers down and out, at least near end of season.

Great pics as I read thread today on your 2016 renovation project that were linked to this thread.

Why not use the gauge and sending unit from a 782D or similar? The sending unit fits in the pipe plugged hole in the cylinder head and the dash gauge is of standard diameter, 2 1/8" Both are readily available although pricey and very accurate, or at least mine are. No need to reinvent the wheel here.

I see the one I used isn't available anymore, but at least with my engine, any 2" gauge with 1/8" npt pipe threads will work and thread right into the thermostat housing. No need to buy the brass fittings. But I will say some people with the same model said they had to drill and tap the housing to thread it. I'm not sure why theirs didn't work and mine did.

If you are having issues with overheating, first pull out the screen in front of the radiator and see if it's clogged. If mine would get the least little bit clogged the temp would rise quickly.

93 degrees here today. Humid as a Sum Beach!! After an hour of mowing with 2182/Haban 60 inch deck. Cutting off 2-4 inches of weed/grass lawn.

I'll have to stop 2-3 times to let it cool a bit and vacuum out the radiator screen before the lawn is done. Takes for ever in this type of weather .

What temp T-stat is in it?

I remember running my 1782 in that NY grass and had to clean that screen about the same amount of times in a few hour period.

Mine would creep up that high when mowing in the 90's too. Never got over 210 so I wasn't worried yet but still like it when it stays around 180.

I wonder why it it is that high?, could it be you have a bad head gasket?

I bought a replacement t-stat from Kubota when I redid the tractor. Had alot of grass clippings that kept plugging the pre screen today.

Water level is unchanged and no issue like milky engine oil. No.smoke what so ever from exhaust. Hope head gasket OK.:bigthink:

Your head gasket is fine. There would be many more symptoms if it was bad. 210 is not really "overheating" Is that as hot as it got?

I asked about T-stat temp because you can change thermostats in temp increments. The temp stamped on the T-stat is the temp it opens at. For instance if you have a 190 degree T-stat the coolant in the engine should reach 190 in theory and open allowing cooled water from radiator to now flow to engine and hot water to flow to radiator to be cooled. I am sure a lot of the issue is the radiator air not flowing enough due to grass clippings but I would wonder how the grass clippings got there? You deck discharges from the side right? In any event. You could change the T-stat to open sooner or later depending on the issue your having. You did mention you put a new T-stat in.. Some T-stats can mistakenly be installed backwards. Not saying you did this but it would be worth checking if your not certain its in the correct way.

Edit. I realize the radiator is directly over the front of the deck so grass blowing up could happen. If there is a gap below it I think I would put some sheet metal there to block it as much as I could.

Coop this series with Kubota has a big radiator fan that creates suction and pushes anything that’s around into that screen

Understood... Was just thinking there might be a way to lessen what can get in it. Better shroud or something to that effect. :bigthink:

It's really kind of a weird setup to me. The radiator and fan are in the back of the engine, right over the deck and is encased in the gauge cluster. Not very good airflow. Mine never gets over 210 and like it was mentioned, 210 isn't overheating, or really even that hot when you are talking about water cooled engines.

Steve - try running the tractor with the side panels off next time you mow when it is extremely hot outside. If the engine water temperature runs cooler than the 210 you've seen previously, the problem is air flow to the radiator with the side panels on.

There is a SB about it overheating. Also be sure you are not using the old style grill.
It is here.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MTL...ew?usp=sharing

So, if that SB was put out in 1991, would model years after that come with the kit factory installed? What year does the OP have?

I wish I could tell you but I have no idea, they may have been or it was as needed.

Looks like it is for the Cyclops type.The later 1512 and the 1772 had loovers in the bottom of the side panels to let more air out.Bot cottonwood fuzz is the worst on the front screen.

I think what they are talking about are the screens that I have on mine towards the rear of the side panels. At least looking at the parts list that's probably it and that's where the radiator is.

Ok for what ever it's worth, I've owned two 2182's and a 1782. I put gauges in all of them. They all would be fine for an hour or so and then the gauge would start to climb until I stopped mowing. None of them ever turned on the high temp warning light. I would hate to know what temp it takes to turn on the light. My conclusion is that the cooling system is inadequate. I suggest that any of you guys with 2182's or 1782's install temp gauges and keep an eye on them. As for me I no longer own a Cub water pumper. I've gone air cooled, if it's not there it can't cause a problem.:beerchug:

That reminds me of what I tell my wife about things on sale she just has to go buy.

Wife: “I got it for 50 percent off though?”

Me: “yeah but if you never bought it, it would have been 100% off.”

:bash2:

WOW!! Alvy I can tell you like living on the edge.:biggrin2::biggrin2:

If I owned one and it was getting hot I would be looking into keeping grass off the rad and I would be looking into creating more air flow. Electric fans for one and maybe build some type of duct work that encloses around the front of the radiator and a duct that pulls the air with inline fan from somewhere else other than where it comes from now. Not that I would want to alter the hood but a hood scoop comes to mind.

There's no way I would own a machine I had to shut off and let cool down dedicated as a grass killer.... NEVER had to do that with the 1872 no matter how steep the hill was or thick the grass was... If the machine is dictating....you are loosing...

I'm a firm believer that time is money and the faster I can get the grass cut..(4+acres) the faster I can get on the next honey do list item...

Now its a Zero Turn duty... As I tell the wife... Right tool for the right job...

Zero turns are cool.. Plowing a field or a driveway of snow would be challenging with one but great for grass no doubt. Some people are limited to the number of machines they can own so would try to have a "do all" machine. I don't know what kind of grass the OP is cutting. In my yard I think it would not be an issue. Im only taking an inch or so off the top of a little over an acre once a week. Its flat and never dusty. Im assuming the Cub diesels were designed to be grass cutting machines. Maybe the design was a bit poor but I would think it could be greatly improved upon with out much effort.

Both of mine run warm, never needed to shut them down. Radiator screen must be kept clean. I also run without the front grill insert. Just watch for consistency on the guage, if your not boiling over and not using any then I figure it’s ok.