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Hydraulic question
im in the process of converting my johnson workhorse 14 loader to a quick attach style kind of like the newer quick way loaders are. pull two pins and the whole loader will remove from the tractor minus the sub frame. my question is, my hydraulic pump is mounted on its own mule drive like attachment and run off the front pto. it has two hoses that come off of the pump. one runs directly to the valve. that is the pressure hose. the second one is a very soft garden hose like low pressure line that runs to the bottom of the left loader upright (also the hydraulic reservoir). basically what i am asking is, does a company make a quick connect hydraulic coupling for the low pressure line? so i can just uncouple the two hoses at the pump and back away from the loader. ive tried searching online for a while but i can't seem to find anything that would work. any help would be much appreciated!
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I'm sure you can find something in this Parker catalog.
https://www.parker.com/literature/Qu...00_Feb2014.pdf |
The answer to the question is yes.
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Here is Aeroquip catalog:
http://apps.esg.aeroquip.com/productserver/catalog/ I work at this company for 40 years. |
McMaster-Carr has hydraulic parts.
www.mcmaster.com |
Just make sure you get something that will work on the suction side of the pump. You probably should call someone and explain what you want to do. You'll need the GPM flow info to get it sized properly.
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Hmm finding out gpm will be the hard part. I wonder if i could just take the pump to a hydraulic shop and tell them what I want to do and see what they say. |
Home depot has lots of garden hose quick attach fittings. Try them.
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Those things suck, leak like a screen and probably not compatible for oil.
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Flow rating the pump isn't necessary. You just need a coupler for that size of hose. A regular Pioneer will be fine. If they'll flow 30+ GPM on a big tractor, I'm sure you can suck 6 gallons through them. I wouldn't do what your doing.... but that's me. I'd leave the pump, tank and the valve on the tractor and put couplers on the loader. But I'm sure your wanting to be able to use a mower or something. Your getting into more trouble than it's worth if that's what your after. If you just looking to take the loader on and off...... do as you wish. |
I ran my Workhorse Loader off of the cubs hydraulic spool on my 149. It can lift 400 lbs, which is what I wanted it to do so I can save the axle and spindles. You might be able to set something up like that only with QA fittings so you can go back and forth between your loader and your mower, if that is your intent.
Cub Cadet 123 |
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I know the tank is in the frame......
That I have every seen the Kwik Way loader (for a Cub Cadet) wasn't easily removable unless someone modified it. If you know of something I don't, post pics..... So...... how exactly do you plan to make it removable if your leaving the upright "tank" and lower frame in place? You planning on just removing the pins at the top?? If so, that' won't be any more fun to take off and put on than just removing the whole thing...... Just leave it on. |
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The newer style kwik way loaders come off of the subframe with two pins. It's the non self leveling loader that they still offer for newer simplicity/ariens tractors.
And yes the upright would still be the reservoir for the hydraulics. The pump would stay on the tractor. Hence why I asked about the quick connects for the hoses running from the pump to the valve and reservoir. This loader will be removable. I'll be fabricating mounts to make it similar to the kwik way but using my Johnson loader. Here is a pic of the kwik way. You can see the bottom of the upright, there is a hitch pin. That comes out, then those bars are disconnected that run to the front end of the tractor and the loader is supported on stands. Then you simply back out of the loader just like the big ones. That's what I want to do with mine. |
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Here is another pic of just the subframe with the loader pockets so you can kind of see what I'm talking about
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I have that very same loader. I made a new subframe for our dx22e to put the loader on. Stashed the subframe and pump in the shed and just put 3/8" pioneer couplers to run the valve. Also got rid of that crappy little spool valve and put a joystick from surplus center.
That loader is even hard on a tractor made to handle a loader, really bad on front tires. The loader sits in the shed most of the time. Its really too small to be worth putting on the tractor. I have yet to find a job it can do that my R bucket cant to better/faster. Except of course loading dirt into the cemetary truck. Id do like J mech said n just buy the cplings from surplus center for the size of hose you have. The other thing would be to mount the coupler on the pump instead of splitting the hoses. That leaves the hoses with the loader. |
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While I'm sure you do a very good job at your job..... I think your delving too far into this, or overthinking it. I promise, the pump is under 8GPM. If it's over that I would be absolutely shocked, as the typical size is about 6GPM.... and that's at full flow, full speed. While I agree that a coupler would be restrictive on a suction line, I'm pretty sure that a large quick coupler will be fine sucking the maybe 5 GPM he's going to be using. If not, a screw together style coupler should work fine. Also very easy to find, but cost more..... I've done a lot of hydraulic work too..... so has Rescue11. But I'll bite.... lets see what your guys say. Just be sure that you supply them with the correct info. |
The Surplus center has an assortment of hydro connections ,hose
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