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K341 PTO goes BOOM!
Just my luck....change oil, air filter, hyd fluid, filter, rear axle seals, rebuild steering box, de-rust gas tank, rebuild carb and take her out for a spin.....
and BANG BANG etc! Shut it down quick, but it sounded pretty bad. This will be my first time in a Kohler, so probably will have some questions. |
Well, at first glance, it doesn't seem the piston is connected to the crank!
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I hate it when that happens. Take lots of pictures.
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That sucks! Did it have the balance gears in it? Take your time, have a machine shop bore it
And do it right, do it once! |
Just finished a k-241. As stated by others, Bore the block and grind the crank. Follow the directions in the manual and it's not bad at all. Mine is running great. Had an oil leak at first. Used non detergent oil for 1st hour, then drained and put sae 30 wt HD and no more leak NONE. Go ahead and put new points, plug and breaker rod in also. I didn't at first but did after the first day. I had zero experience with a kohler or any other small engine. Just a little with the older
V-8 chevrolets. |
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Looks like something is missing from the PTO, and maybe this is the problem?
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Pull the spark plug and see if you can turn it over by hand.
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It appears to be missing a spring, washer and nut off the front of the PTO brake assy, and the screw that goes thru the spring was getting jammed between the brake clutch plates causing the brake to bang against the actuator arm.....at least that's what I hope was happening! |
Put the SG back on and hook up what it needs to run and give it a test to see if it runs. I think you may have over reacted and started to take it apart when your problem is the PTO. They can make ugly sounds when they fall apart.
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You are missing the PTO thrust button and brake.
What is that in the picture? |
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There is a flathead screw that goes thru the part you marked with an arrow towards the front, and it looks like both pieces have friction pads on them. But the front piece cant rotate (at least I don't think so), so it must be a brake? Not sure where the thrust button is supposed to be unless it is the shiny mangled piece in the middle? |
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According to the parts diagram, there is supposed to be a wave washer and circlip holding the brake disc plate on to the thrust button, and they are not there, nor is there any room for them to be installed? I can't imagine that much of the button has been sheared off, but maybe? |
Have you started the engine to see if that was the problem? If it's the engine then there is no point messing with the PTO since it will have to be removed anyway.
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Thought I would address that while it is easy to reach. |
This thread is entertaining....
I blew up my motor!! Wait, no I didn't.... I think it's the PTO. Yeah, it's the PTO. "So, now that you know it's the PTO, does the motor run ok?" I dunno..... :popcorn::popcorn::popcorn: |
Sound funny like a "Live" show but he already mention been a first timer Kohler "engineer" so why we don't give him a brake Mr Johnny gun? :biggrin2:
Joke aside I enjoy the drama and wait for more action! :ThumbsUp: |
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Set screws soaking in PB blaster...not real optimistic about them coming out without a fight though.
Meanwhile, trying to figure out if I can save the existing button. There is a ridge built up on the thrust button where a groove for the snap ring used to be. Options: 1: Start the engine and use it as a lathe and try to re-tool the groove with a small file. (engine probably shakes too much while running?) 2: Use a dremel wheel and try to re-grind the groove with engine not running (I probably shake too much for this option! 3: Eliminate the brake shoe and plate, and use a homemade wear button on the actuator arm instead |
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Why don't you just buy a new one...... :bash2: $10.50 each http://ihccw.com/pto.html |
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He said "engineer", but that looks more like the chart the production workers use.
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If they come out, I probably will.....thanks for the link! |
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Success!.....well, mostly...there were only 5 in there but they put up quite a fight...had to break out the valve grinding compound after soaking, heating, chasing threads, and tapping
The last one made it almost all the way out and then.......snapped in two!....might have tapped that one a little too hard? Wonder if I can re-use this disc? |
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Decided to ditch the PTO brake and revert to a button actuator instead.
My machinist uncle had some spare bronze so I drilled and tapped a piece to use as the button. New clutch disc, new set screws, new bearing and all is good! Engine was fine all along...cut my first yard yesterday and seems to be working well. |
and that as they say was problem solving.....good for you.... congratulations, youre NOT one of the 5 million "Americans" who can no longer do that sort of thing!!
was a good read though...welcome |
pto button
You done good. How did you come up with the length of your new button? And how is it wearing?
Chris |
Good deal. There's a couple of mine that had the brake pto on them with the weird extended button that now have something similar to what you did. Works well, congrats
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I just eye-balled the available space for the new button at max open and subtracted a little for clearance. There is plenty of adjustment in the turnbuckle actuating rod to make up for any wear as time goes on.
I'm guessing it should last a long time since it's about 10x thicker than the stock button (for the non-brake PTO models), and the only time there is any wear is the short time between dis-engaging and the blades actually stopping. Thanks for the supportive comments! |
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