New to me, 882
 

Hey guys! wanted to share with you my acquisition news- got a 882 last week. Spent Saturday checking it out and a good cleanup-inside and out!
found the following items to attend to-
Alternator has no output- PO bought a Denso replacement but still in box.
wiring in good shape but need to chase down some gremlins
PO installed a gear reduction starter but did not do enough clearance work around the hot starter cable - almost shorting out
pressure relief valves on the hydro unit weeping out vent holes- if there anyone close to me that repairs them?
I did install the new alternator- the pivot boss from the old alt is the perfect thickness to be used as a spacer for the new alt install- so I cut it off and used it with a 60 mm bolt. Wiring was very easy- now was 14.5 volt output!
SO- gave it a through bath- fixed a few items- found some items needing attention - making plans on what to do next- adjusting the starter side engine bracket is next so there is no melt down and the hydro leak. Man- was that little tractor dirty!! It almost took more time to clean the driveway than it did to clean the tractor! more to come latter-

Looks like a great project! Have fun. Tell us more about that Jeep wagon in the background.

You have a month and a half till AJ's get it ready

Sweet tractor! Love them diesels!

Hi Mike! I was just thinking of you- I need to ask is there anyone close that repairs relief valves? I also think I need to look for some new wheels- the rust pits are really deep. Got any for sale?
I was thinking of taking it to AJ's but I have not trailer- yet.
And I really got to get the starter issues addressed asap!
It is a cool little tractor- I have always wanted one- now I got it!
thanks for your input- Pete

I believe this will be a great project- cool little tractor.
The Willis Jeep is for sale- no time and interests have wandered
It is a 1961 Wagon- Has a Chevy 350 and turbo 350 behind it, Dana 44 - 3.73 in the rear - still need to install the front one. Still have the 6 cyl flat head Hurricane and old trans that was original - fresh paint- no rust. It would look great with a trailer full of old cubs behind it!

Great looking Cub, Pete! Congrats!!:beerchug:

I've used Marks services for about 8 sets of valves. All good. Here is his contact info.

Machtech Direct
605 Furnace Rd.
Conneaut Ohio 44030
Phone: 440-499-5813
Email: mark.machtech@gmail.com

Sam- thanks for the info!

Welcome to the smoker club!
You did well, even has a CAT 0 hitch.

Congrats on the 882!

Congrats on the smoker!

Congrats on the lil smoker and +1 on Machtech service too. If you still have the fender pan off, pull the tank, fuel cock/tank bung, give it a good flushing with water and soap and change the fuel lines also. That will eliminate a bunch of issues.

Got any pics of the starter mod? He should have used a hole saw.
Attachment 83420

Check the bearings in the cooling fan also. I've had a few that needed new bearings.

I order a bunch of these to keep on the shelf.
http://tewarehouse.com/7-07461

http://tewarehouse.com/FUEL-SHUT-OFF

And all the diesel goodies that are needed too.
Here are the filters you need.
I use Rotella T 15W-40 oil and Wix filters part #
Air - 46270
Pre fuel - 33972
Fuel - 33389
Oil - 51064
Hydro - 51410

Good luck, keep us posted and feed us lots of pics.:beer2:

You're gonna love that sweet little diesel!!
Now, grab some ags and a plow and bring it to Buck Creek, IA this fall and help us all plow about 30 acres!!

If you are close enough to make AJ's, you are close enough to make Buck Creek
BTW, this will be PD #3 for BC

Congrats on the 882.

I second going through the fuel system. I used Super Clean for the tank and fittings. New bungs, filter, and fuel line. Made a big difference

thanks for all the great info- looking at the motor mount plate it sure looks weak after cutting the hole. Has anyone welded a brace/plate across the side closest to the block for reinforcement? I need to replace the belts- am I correct thinking you have to disconnect the drive shaft and maybe slide the motor forward a bit to get it in? Also I am planning on checking the fan bearings as well.

I was thinking the motor mount was weakened also but if you look at the pic I posted you can see the po took a cutting torch to it so he could get to the bolt.:angry: I had 2 complete sets of mounts made but I still never replaced this one. I hammer this little sucker at plow days and the mount is still the same with no cracks.

I have the belt list that you need somewhere also. Let me see if I can find it.

Another vote to replace all fuel filters (4 on my 882) as well as the fuel lines. Here are a couple more suggestions if you plan on keeping it:

1 - Take a good look at the radiator and make sure the overlay screen is still there. Suggest taking it to a radiator shop for a pressure test. Mine had to be completely re-worked a couple of summers ago.

2 - Consider collecting a thermostat, water pump and hoses as you go. Unless a PO has already replaced them, these may fail at any time. Be aware the top hose is NLA and is not a common diameter at typical auto parts houses.

Enjoy the smoke!

:American Flag 1:

Pete,

Patton Acres has a set for a 1782/2182- used. Same part numbers as the 882.

http://www.pattonacres.com/cub-cadet...a-diesel-21c1/

Other sponsors may have them also.

Any Kubota dealer can get you a top hose.
You have to cut about a inch off one end is all
fits perfect.
does not have then insulation sleeve is all.

#K7311-85150 $24.81 +tx

Actually, after looking at the plate it appears that it is so beefy you could cut out that whole section out to the outer edge and it would still be strong enough not to bend or flex - thanks for the link to Patten Acres for the picture.
:bigthink::bigthink:

I just bough one for 17.50 at the bota dealer, but the belt on the pump end was 18.00 wow.

Thanks for the PN fellas, I haven't been around much lately. Good to see a solution for the top hose has been worked out. OCC to the rescue again!

:beerchug:

continuation
 

Got some stool time in Sunday- upgraded the main circuit breaker- it was trashed- power only if it felt like it. Made some loom repairs-changed out the headlight switch. Removed the starter, cut out some of the motor side bracket so the starter cable won't short out, initially I thought it would be severely weakened, but I think it is pretty beefy, should be fine, if needed I can always add some material on the outer edge. Ordered some small parts to address other issues, fuel tank purge, brake return spring + pedal pad, and some safety switches. Still waiting on relief valves to get back, hopefully some time this week
that's all for now!

The process continues
 

Got some more time in Sunday hydraulic relief valves installed- got the fuel system gone thru- man was that dirty- diesel would only drip out of the fuel shut off when it was wide open- tank cleaned and new bushings and valve installed with new lines. Put the fender pan back on and repaired the rear wiring. Next up is servicing the hydro and filter- with a good flush out. Forward motion is being made- just not real fast. More to come....

Get a supply of 1/4" spirol pins.
You are likely gonna need them for the pump end of the driveshaft.
I dropped the 2nd one yesterday while dragging the disc through the garden.
the 1st one was last fall while hauling wood.
Better now than while plowing snow I guess!!

Keep up the good work, Pete!:beerchug:

What Steve said! :beerchug:

fan bearing info
 

Does anyone have the fan bearing part numbers and a source for the idler bearing for the fan?
Also I was looking at the bottom radiator hose- I see some have used 7/8 in heater hose- how has that idea worked out? It looks as though it might be difficult to form without kinks.
Thanks for the info in advance!

My fan bearings in my 1572 started making noise last fall. I just ordered 2 bearings from McMaster-Carr, Pt# R12-2RS. 3/4X1 5/8X7/16 double sealed. They were around $10.00 each. Should work, I will let you know.

Although it might be a little pricey, these silicone hoses will be the last ones you'll ever need to buy. They last forever if cared for.
Pegasus offers enough shapes and sizes that you should be able to copy the original hose. You could also have a steel tube bent and then join the ends with radiator hose.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/ad...D=SILICONEHOSE

how do these hoses fair when in use- I work in heavy duty truck maintenance and those seem to be prone to cold start leaks- I was sort of toying with the idea of possibly using some ss tubing bent to form at the muffler shop and then connect with a couple of short pieces
thanks for the idea- pete

Pete, I don't care for the silicone hoses. When I was running the truck shops for republic, they would blow out with no warning. Failure from inside the hose. No outer evidence prior to them failing. I'd do the muffler pipe with straight hose. Done it before on other applications with good results.

still making slow forward progress, top radiator hose arrived Friday- got installed Sunday. I am waiting for a new rear cover for the rear end from Extreme - they seem hard to reach- sent an e-mail asking for them to let me know when they will ship- so far no reply- also left a voice message- also no reply.
I am looking for engine identifying info- I don't see any model or serial numbers- I am assuming they were on some kind of sticker- the only thing on it is on the valve cover- inspected by the chief inspector- the part man at the Kubota dealer says it is stamped into the block by the injection pump- I see 600 but nothing else- is there some other place I am missing??
that's all for now!
Aaron is alive and well- just real busy!

look on the injector pump

It's true that the silicone hoses have a potential for failure in the heavy truck applications. My personal opinion is that the under hood conditions on a Cub diesel and the hours of continuous operation are no where close to that of a heavy truck. When used in a air crossover application, the boost pressure is far less as well. I think the silicone hose will hold up quite well on a Cub, but time will tell.

deck question
 

I have a question regarding decks- I was recently given a 48 in cc deck listed as "48 GT Deck serial 317190", I think it came off of a Cyclops tractor- it will not match up with what is currently under the 882 but the question if I can find the correct mule drive will it the 882?? I sort of like this deck as it looks like it will float on the terrain opposed the original one.
I am also interested in others opinion of this deck.
thanks in advance- pete