Hello
 

So ive read alot on here but am a new member but im 27 my name is Ian and im bringing back to life a 1968 cub cadet 125 that only ever blew snow its whole life I got from original owner so I found a mule drive and deck on craigslist new blades new oil pan. Anyways down to one final issue starting it has started fine but rather slow to fire it has a new spark plug and new battery but the starter will spin faster with it hooked up to the battery charger and fires immediately its not the battery I think im either getting too much resistance from my coil which reads around 3.0 or my starter needs to be rebuilt just wondering if you can help me find the solution faster?

Thanks
:American Flag 1:

Hi, Ian. Welcome to the forum.

Clean all of your connections first. Could still be the battery.

Connections are all good I thought it might be my points so I looked and they were a little burnt so i cleaned them up and got my gap back to .2 hopefully it fixes the issue. Your opinion if the problem continues?

You'll want them at .020

Try using the static timing method outlined in the tech section. Once I saw that I quit gapping points.
Put a new set of points in and try the static method.
As far as the starting better hooked to the charger, either your battery isn't big enough or your starter is pulling too many amps, or the connections aren't as good as you think. Sometimes corrosion is hidden inside the cable.

Thanks Terry maybe just repacing the wires for battery to starter generator wouldn't be a bad idea. And I did mean to type .02 gap my apologies I will update if any solution makes a superior noticeable difference.

Thanks for your replies

Also I will have to look into static timing I found a link however Im having a hard time seeing where the "S" mark will be seen does anyone have a better picture of this than this page:

http://www.mgonitzke.net/cubcadet/to...tic_timing.pdf

Go to our "resources" tech library, tractors, 2nd page near the bottom.
Spend some time getting acquainted with our wealth of info:beerchug:
You will be amazed what you can learn here,
and yes we answer questions.:ThumbsUp:

Trust us the "S" mark in there just darn hard to see sometimes.'
it should appear pretty close to the opening of the points, it helps to have a bright concentrated light.
once found, a white paint marker to highlight it helps.

Thanks George I got it figured out and it was actually right on and at full spread it was .020 now next issue I think it could be my coil now I had a battery tender on it and my key was on but my coil was super hot to the touch is this normal? Also my resistance on my coil with key off is 2.0 ohms does this tell you guys anything? So close to having this cub right back to 1968

Try pulling the spark plug and ground it to the block and start the tractor and check to see if you have good spark

Ya it is normal to cook a coil by leaving the key on, and it gets hot.
You might get lucky and it still works, it is not good for the points either.
if you got spark @ the plug it might be ok.
Don't fret about leaving the key on, it has happened more times than ppl admit too.
To error is human.
luck!

X2 on what George said. If you have kids, take the key out when not in use.
Little fingers like turning things.

Chris

Welcome to OCC!

Ok thanks the key was on, on purpose for setting timing it was on a half hour tops. Its reading 2 ohms resistance what is typical for a k301 coil???

3.5 ohm coil is what they are supposed to have.

I'm not convinced you set the timing right.... The points should just crack open at the "S" mark. The gap at "full spread" is completely irrelevant. Don't even bother to measure it. It's that unimportant. Just make sure that they break contact at the "S" mark.

Don't leave the key on while setting the timing. Just turn it on when you need it. You don't even have to turn the key on. If you use a test light, just hook it up to the positive side of the battery, and touch the probe to the screw where the coil wire hooks to it. No need to fiddle with a multi-meter like in Matt G's post. That way is cumbersome.

At this point, I'm not sure what problem your trying to fix... Slow crank speed or what you think is an ignition issue.... checking the timing is good, but why are you concerned with a weak spark? One thing at a time. If you go trying to "fix" multiple things, you may just be wasting money. Lets figure out whether you actually have a cranking issue, or an ignition issue.

So...... does it crank?
Does it have spark?

Ok j-mech yes it cranks but too slowly so it either barely gets started or loses too much juice it wasnt sparking on "S" so that was on my list of things nows its all good and at full spread it is the correct .02.... I cleaned up my connections. My coil has 2 ohms of resistance. SO my only question i believe now is whether having 2 ohms of resistance could effect it firing up quicker (inconsistant spark or something) or if I should rebuild my starter? IMO but not 100% im not getting the cranking speed I need to help her turn over but Im not sure never played with a K301 before..... oh and yes it has spark

Let me put it this way.... My starter generatorator is cranking too slowly..

No, the low ohms won't keep it from running, but may affect performance. I'd say the coil is getting old and weak. You just posted a few days ago that it had 3 ohms, and now it's 2....?? Maybe that bout with leaving the key on got it. You can burn them up that way.... but only if they are on their way out usually.

I'm not sure you're understanding on the whole point gap thing.... but as long as you're sure the points are just opening at the right time, then I'll drop it.


Ok. So, how old is this battery?

Back to the original ideas. Make sure the wiring is good, solenoid is good.... if it is, then yep. Time to rebuild the S/G. :ThumbsUp: