Make a 1a tiller self powered
 

Hey guys, I posted a while back about picking up a 1a tiller. Going to use it on my 1812. Finally got the gearbox back together (the vertical shaft was bent). Anyway, now trying to source some parts. Going to need a dedicated mule drive and the long belt. Also, going to make or buy the adaptor for the tiller to use the 3 point. Anyway, been thinking about just putting an engine on the tiller to make it a 400 model tiller. Anyone done this? Pros or cons? It's not a perfect example of a 1a, so I don't mind cutting or welding on it. I'm normally opposed to cutting some of these attachments up. And the only 400 tiller I know that was around was basically NOS, and a little pricey--at least for my blood. Thanks in advance!

I wouldn't. Engines are more expensive than a long belt to run that tiller. Seems like a no-brainer to me.

I have often thought about doing the same thing, not that i mind the belt but it would just be so much easier to put on and take off.

That's why I made mine quick change. I am really surprised that will all the people who complain about removing and installing the tiller, that no one else has copied my design. So simple. Maybe I should make and sell the adapter. :bigthink:

Agreed! I have a horizontal Briggs around here somewhere:bigthink:

My other thought for "self powering" was that I could put a weight bracket up front. I know these things are heavy, and my property isn't flat. Guess I could always burn a bracket on the mule drive for a weight bracket.

2B Tiller on 1811, J-mech's title. I need to figure out how to do the link.:bigthink:

I'd love to see some pics of your design :WWP:

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=23922

I welded the bar onto the bracket for the gear box. If I was to do it over, I would have welded it to a plate and bolted it on. The other thing that I have found I needed is a handle on the vertical bar that goes into the pin up top. I would also make my lift arm that goes into the sleeve hitch just a bit longer. Either way, one pin and the belt is all I have to pull to install or remove the tiller. Pretty easy. Does work better to install/remove on a flat level surface. I've dropped it off in the yard several times while doing garden work. PITA when the tractor and tiller aren't on the same plane.

It's basically a copy of what you need in order to use a 3pt. No big deal to make a few changed and it would work on a 3pt tractor.

J-mech, so you welded the round stock to the gearbox bracket, vs making another plate (like the xtreme style)?

It takes me 20 min to convert mine from mowing to tilling.

Yes, but I stitch welded it. I can cut it off with a die grinder if I ever want to bolt it back up to something. Metallic work is easy.

Daniel, I can have my tiller off or on in less than 2 min. If it's on concrete, less than that. Literally takes longer to remove a mower deck and subframe.

I'm lazy, my tiller lives on my 149. :beerchug:

Daniel, 20 min is about my turnover time too, and 15 of it is spent trying to get the deck back under the tractor! Mounting tiller back on usually takes me about 5-10, and I always end up doing it twice because I always forget to have the gearbox-to-tiller belt where I need it before I put the pins in place. Usually have to field several questions from the wife or the daughter along the way, nothing better at making you lose focus than a female, for better or worse!