Another new addition to the family..
 

I just picked up most of a 2284 last night. It needs a few parts, and a cleaning. I already know it needs a cork gasket and axle housing seals... and an engine and hood :biggrin2:

Everything is wet back around the rear. But the tires are good, steering is good. I paid $300 for it and drove 3 hours both ways, I probably overpaid a bit I think, but I'll have the Super I have always wanted when all is set and done.
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I am wondering about the front tire clearance to the axle beam though. Seems awfully close. Is this a bent axle or just an extra fat (over inflated) tire? The other side has about 1/4" to 1/2" clearance and feels inflated the same. I didn't check tire pressure yet.
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I'm going to have to do something to treat my Yellow Fever soon, my almost 13 year old daughter is becoming embarassed by all the parts tractors in our yard and driveway now. :beerchug:

:beerchug:Congrats on the skeletonized SGT!:beerchug:

I have been known to buy such critters......

Thanks... skeletonized just means just less I have to take off to clean it up... :biggrin2:

Looks like the one I saw on Allentown pa CL.
I remember when it was complete. hehehehe.
Are you sure those are super front rims?
Nice find, though you paid too much.

That's the one. What do you know about it? I'm not sure if those are the super rims, the seem to be the right width for the axle and everything. The tires are 20x8x8. Looks like they should be 18x8.5-8 according to tractordata.com. I guess that answers my question, I didn't look much up about it, I just saw the 2284 chassis and got excited. It was too far and too much $$, but I already have most of what I will need to put the meat back on the bones, so it won't cost me a lot in the long run. Certainly not $1200+ like these things pop up for sale for complete and probably need torn apart and gone over anyway.

I know I missed out on it when it was for sale for 250.00. heheheh
More than likely those are the wrong tires.
Be sure it still has the super tranny or pump in it. I saw one on CL a while ago....

:bigthink:

Thanks for the tips. I think it's wrong tires on the right rims. I'll deal with it, I'm pot committed at this point. I think I have some 18x8.5's around somewhere. This one is going to sit for a little while until I wrap up some other things and make room to work on it.

I am wondering about the front tire clearance to the axle beam though. Seems awfully close. Is this a bent axle or just an extra fat (over inflated) tire? The other side has about 1/4" to 1/2" clearance and feels inflated the same. I didn't check tire pressure yet.
I be checking the wheel bearings. I had one on my 1864 like that, and when I pulled tire and rim the inner wheel bearing fell out in pieces. :American Flag 1:

There is a picture of the front end of a super in here
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...t=49506&page=4
shows the tire to axle clearance

Hopefully it is the super tranny, but I'm wondering what if it's not? The only difference is the reduction gear and pump gear isn't it? Will it just go faster if it were a non-super tranny because of the bigger tires? I guess I'll know once and for all what I have when I start taking it apart to replace seals and gaskets, and drill the return holes for the axle housings (Sam's recommendation).

I think all supers have vented brake rotors, plus the pump will have a part # on the tag below the charge pump.

Good to go here.
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Check your bushings in the axle where the knuckle goes. I had a bushing that was loose in the axle that slid down to cause the knuckle to be loose.

Well I started the tear down today. I am excited and couldn't wait much longer. I've never seen so much filth in the rear area, so I assumed the worst... that there was a leak. After I got the layers of dirt and grease, and greasy dirt out of there, I found the leak. the one axle carrier is shot. Both holes in the top are shattered and one has a broken off bolt flush in the hole, and its missing the tab on the left side. So I need to replace parts. I have all the parts here that I need, the housing and the carrier tubes. But they aren't "Super" ones. So I know I need to swap the reduction gear over from the mangled super rear to the other non super aluminum rear housing I have. Problem is I can't get either one to separate the front part off the main part to get to the reduction gear. Usually I knock stuff around with a rubber mallet and it breaks loose, but neither of these are doing so. What can I do to get them apart? :bigthink:

That is because behind the welch plug there is a ring holding the shaft in that goes to the reduction gear.
You will have to re shim it when you reinstall it..

Ok, I got that off before I saw your reply. I read the manual and it tells what to do. It just says "drill a hole and use a tool to pull the plug out". What tool? I guess any tool that works. I used a 15/64" bit and got a Phillips screwdriver in there and it popped right out. Now I can't get the snap clip off. I don't have a tool here to get that off. My snap ring pliers open it almost far enough but not enough to get it off. :bash2:

I'm going to be getting some braces from xtreme after all this, I want this thing to stay together.

That is good you figgered it out.
Good luck on your build and keep us posted.

How do I get #12 out? This one is making me mad. I can’t get it out.

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With a pair of these..... A tool made just for removing that style of snap ring.
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What’s it called? I went to autozone and they said I could probably get it with bigger snap ring pliers. I have my doubts. I got them but haven’t tried it yet. I figured there was something like that but didn’t know what it’s called.

What is an axle carrier?
Both holes in the top of what?
What "tab"?

I'm lost...... :bigthink:

What he showed.
That is what I use.

Take a look here. Jmech beat me to the post, took me forever to find them on the net, everything points you towards "ordinary" snap ring pliers.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wilde-Tool-9...AAAOSwdsFUNCKI

The two bolt holes through the axle tube into the frame are split out and the front mount to the frame. All three mounts for the transmission to the frame are broken out and one frame bolt is broken off into the main housing. There’s no salvaging this one. The common failure of these when they aren’t braced. Make sense?

Right angle lock ring pliers. Got it. Thanks John and all.

I think mine are left angle ones...

I could just hold them in my left hand to make them left angle. :biggrin2:

You probably own a metric adjustable wrench too!:biggrin2:

That and a pair of metric pliers.

Snap ring pliers. Autozone can't get them. You have to get them from a real tool suppler. Napa may be able to get a set, but I doubt it. I have no idea really.... I don't buy hand mechanic tools from anyone but Snap-On. You can buy a set like mine. They are $53.50 (plus shipping I'm sure).

https://store.snapon.com/Snap-Ring-P...g-P647705.aspx

So, the axles tubes are split? Or the center case is split at the top bolt holes?


There are four mounting points to the frame..... Where are you getting 3?
What frame bolt? The one through the axle tube? Or the front mounts on the side of the case?


No.... not yet it doesn't.

You got me there. I DO OWN a strictly metric tape measure. Bad part is the numbers are worn off and Sears doesn't make it anymore (Its 27 years old).

Back to Sorners question on the Pliers, our set here came from Sears 25 years ago, very well made, don't know if they carry them any longer. Probably Napa or any non chain type auto parts store would have them, but I doubt they will be cheap. Now that you know what to look for, Ebay or Amazon if you can wait a couple days. Harbor Freight may even carry them, the quality may be iffy, as some of those type snap rings are pretty darn tough to deal with.

I misspoke on the mounting points count, all four mounting points on the left side. The two through the frame and axle carrier and the two through the front.

How bout now?

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Thanks for the pics. That helps...... but I don't see anywhere it's damaged that deems it not usable....???? Where is it broken that you can't use that case?

Don't tell me the ears up on the front that are broken.... Once you install the rear end braces, you don't need those. Sam removes the mount plates altogether when he installs them. He should now what works, he designed the rear braces xtreme sells.

Ok... well if I can get that bolt broken bolt out then maybe we have something here. I just figured that since I have a case sitting right here I would just easily swap the shaft and gear over and be done and put it all back together. Not so I guess.

No, that's not necessary. Plus, if you do, you have to reset the pinion depth. You may need to order shims to do that if the two you have don't work. Lots more trouble than it is worth when all you need to do is remove a broken bolt. If you had asked first before jumping in, we could have saved you all the work you did, and you would have had the bolt out already. As many times as you have done that (jumping in without really knowing what you were doing) I would think you would have learned to ask first by now.

make sure you heat up the broken bolt good, to release the locktite. otherwise it may damage the case trying to get it out. I had one I had to tig weld back up and redrill.

What J-Mech said. :beerchug:

I found a set of Craftsman lock ring pliers that look just like those, and they're $15. I'll give those a try tonight. Thanks!

Hey J-Mech, what I have learned is to not ask so many questions and to do my own research and jump into projects before asking questions, which I did on this project. I either ask too many questions or not enough questions. I can't win! :biggrin2:

I'll just let any comments I have as a response go..... No. You can't win.

One question:
Did you read the service manual on ring gear and pinion removal and installation/ set up? Did it cover how to set pinion depth and ring gear backlash? Are you familiar with that process?