Trans leak at seal
 

Another from the, I'm Not A Mechanic And Should NOT Play One In The Driveway:

Tranny leak at the axle seal - left side!

Is this a BIG job? Or is the seal replaced much like an engine seal?

And another thing - I've never been able to move (push) this tractor when it was not running.
Now, for some reason, its relatively easy to move around. Entirely baffled by this.

To change the Axle Seal.....
(A) Drain the Rear End
(B) Pull the Rear End Cover off
(C) Locate the effect axle on the differential
(D) There is a "C" clip at the end of the axle
(E) Remove "C" clip
(F) Pull axle out of axle tube
(G) Remove bad seal
(H) Install new seal
Reverse your steps to restore your rear end.

New Parts:
(a) Rear Cover Gasket
(b) Hydro Filter
(c) Axle Seal
(d) New Hydro fluid - ie: HyTran

Rear end should be be cleaned out and up before reassembly.

:IH Trusted Hand:

What model tractor are you working on?

Edit: I see from your other post that you are playing with an 1882. Pretty much what Roland said but you also need to remove the brakes to pull the axle. This is one I did a few years ago.
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=21261

Thanks for the info guys.
Do you have any insight into the moving and not moving of the tractor mentioned earlier? The why's, what's, and how's of the fact I couldn't, but now can, move it.

That issue would revolve around the Sundstrand Hydro Relief Valves. Pull the relief valves out, and soak them in a cleaning solvent. Once cleaned, blow them out real good. then reinstall.

Report back and advise.

Once this procedure is completed......the tractor "should" or "should not" free roll??

Normally, once the engine is off, and the pump pressure is down (a few seconds), it should be free to roll.

These are the "SU" prefix numbers under the hydrostatic trans section of parts breakdown??

Part numbers with the SU prefix indicates the vendor is Sundstrand.

How is the C clip removed? I can't see the holes on the clip to where snap ring pliers would help. Is it a matter of positioning the axle so the holes are available?

it's not a snap ring
I've used small screw drivers to dig them out but what I find works best is a pick with a 90 degree bend on the end

Now I'm wondering if I'm even tackling the correct area.
Looking at the rear of the tractor from behind.
The cover plate removed.
The clip or retainer is accessible from here?

Is the C clip I'm looking for inside the differential (sorry if using the wrong terminology)?
If so, how do I turn it so I can pull the C clip out?

Yep and use a bar, big screw driver or other prying device to turn the ring gear.

:ThumbsUp:

Then pull the cross pin, push the axles in and the clip falls out. Then pull the axles.

I'm not sure what you think the OP is talking about..... he is wanting to know how to get the c-clips off the end of the axles. You can't dig them out with a pick. They are like 1/4" thick.

OK kids, looks like I need to do the hard work on this one so here we go.
1: rotate the diff about 90 degrees from the way it is in your pic it will turn hard but it will turn. Like I said I use a BIG screw driver or small pry bar.

2: The C-clips are located on the ends of the axles. They are about 1/16" thick. I use a couple screw drivers to pop them off then I fish them out of the case with a magnet. A hook that will fit into the slots on the C-clips will also work but I don't have one and I'm too cheap to buy one.

3:Next you just pull the axles out of the tube.

4: Remove the old seals

5: Replace the seals with new.


It just so happens that I have my 1864 on the lift to replace these same seals so I will take pics and post them.

THANKS! Its all 'bout communication. And when you're dealing with someone who knows NOTHING (that would be me) that communication is more difficult.

No problem. Just went through my pics and I don't have one with the diff in the proper position to remove the clips and I have done a bunch of them. I do have a pic of the clips. they are in the red box in this pic.

OK pics of the project
1st pic is the diff with the back cover off.
2nd pic is looking inside the diff at the c-clip
3rd pic is the end of the axle with the brake caliper removed
4th pic is with the axle removed (looks like this seal was just starting to leak, it was damp and it is covered with dirt)
5th pic is the axle
6th pic is the seal and retaining snap ring (late Cyclops have a large snap ring on the outside that retains the seal and the bearing, early Cyclops have the snap ring behind the seal) I put the red plug into the seal to keep dirt out while I clean it before removing the snap ring and the seal.

Next in the pics of this project.
1st is the seal with the snap ring
2nd is the seal and snap ring removed
3rd is the seal, snap ring, bearings and the C-clips

Some of the tools used on this job
1st pic snap ring pliers, seal puller & scrapers
2nd pic Vacuum pump to suck the crud out of the axle tubes
3rd pic crud that was in the axle tubes
4th pic screw drivers used to pop the C-clips off the ends of the axles
5th pic new rear cover from Xtreme
6th pic GT braces from Xtreme

I will use OEM seals on this one, I have used National seals on one other Cyclops and they leaked around the outside of the seal so I ended up having to do the job over, I was not a happy camper. The OEM seal part number is
921-3020A SEAL-OIL this is the Cub Price $6.85 you need 2 of these
This is the rear cover gasket, some people just use RTV choice is up to you
921-3015 GASKET Cub Price $8.57

Awesome pictorial - I'll let you know if I run into any additional (shouldn't try this at home) issues.

Worked on the 1864/2264 for about 2 hours today got it almost all back together. Hope to finish it tomorrow. :beerchug:

Mine's back together (Thanks for all the help).
Untested, as I've got to make a trip to town for tranny fluid.

I'm so confident in my (er-uh)driveway mechanical abilities ..... bought a 2084, relegating the 1882 to back-up status.

Got my toy done yesterday http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...=46990&page=11

Post your results when you get a chance.

Well, it ran down the driveway ..... and back (giddy up).

Haven't put the blower (or blade) on it yet.

It has needed to be "primed" each time I've started it since the "electrical LOL issue"

Its been suggested I have the fuel pump hooked up wrong. Go Figure.

If you do, it wouldn't run at all. Pretty sure you don't if it will run.

1882 should have a vacuum operated fuel pump. Did you replace it with an electric pump? If so post some pics.

The early[1990] Cyclops still used the engine mounted fuel pumps.

This one has the vacuum fuel pump.