1811 Magnum 18 ignition module
 

Looking for some advice on a no spark issue before I spend the money on an ignition module. I made an ignition system tester with the clips/wire/spare spark plugs and tested the ignition module per the service manual instructions. I have spark if I disconnect the small white wire located between the spark plug wires on the ignition module, but if it's connected to the ignition module, I have no spark.

I tested the module primary per service manual instructions. That was 1.4 ohms, which I believe is within spec. When I tested the module secondary, I have 0 ohms. It calls for 22000-44000. The test looks simple enough, just put the leads from my meter into the spark plug wires.

If the ignition module is bad (indicated by 0 ohms on the secondary), will it still be able to produce a spark with the small white "primary" wire disconnected? Should I start looking for shorts or should I just replace the ignition module? Did I somehow miss something when I tested the ignition module secondary?

Both the brake pedal safety switch and seat safety switch were disabled by connecting the wires together by the previous owner. I just finished a refresh on the engine with grinding/new valves, new piston and rings, head gaskets, etc on the engine and rebuilt the starter. I dropped the engine back into the tractor with out any tin on it for better access to the electrical components to test for spark. The voltage regulator/rectifier is not hooked up at all, I assumed it wouldn't need to be to test the ignition module.

Thank you for your time!!

Gabe

If you have spark with the wire unhooked but non with it hooked up then I would suspect a wiring issue or an ignition switch.

ditto.....

The white wire is the kill wire. Sounds like it might be shorted somewhere.

Great point you guys, thank you. I'm leaning toward the ignition switch. I replaced the ignition switch with a stens 430-583 switch. When I ordered it online it said it would fit cub cadet 725-3026, which is the part number I got off partstree.com. The old switch was worn out to the point that the key wouldn't stay in, unfortunately I threw it in the trash last week. Would've been nice to see what the back of the switch looked like.

The old switch had 4 positions, off, run, run with lights on, and start. The new stens switch only had 3 positions off, run, and start. It couldn't even get power to the starter or the PTO. I thew in an old switch I had laying around from a wide frame (same 3 positions as the stens). It got power to the starter, PTO, and spark plugs with the wire disconnected from the "kill terminal" on the ignition module with the old wideframe switch.

Does anyone have the correct part number for a 4 position switch for an 1811?

Thanks!!

Gabe

725-3026 key switch is what cub cadet says it is. Should have 5 terminals

Order and install the correct Ignition Switch.....725-3026.

Stens is/was a bad cross reference.

I found a used ignition on ebay from an 1812, hopefully that works. I also heard you can move some of the wires around in the wire harness to get the winning combination. I'll try the ignition switch first and go from there. Thank you guys very much for your help!!

Thanks,

Gabe

Seriously your going to buy a used switch? New switch is like $25.00 https://www.cubcadetpartsnmore.com/m...-ignition.html :bash2:

NOPE...not true.

Some things are ok to purchase used,
Ignition switches, flash bulbs, condoms & tampons are not on that list.:biggrin2:

:Duh::biggrin2:

Haha! Agreed!!! ...I know right, used switch. I'm just a little gun shy of ordering another brand new one off the internet, the last one was supposed to match and did not. Plus I can't find a straight answer on whether or not the new one will be 3 or 4 position for the lights. I'm an idiot for throwing the old one away, you live and learn I guess. ...I even went through the trash in my shop to see if maybe it didn't make it all the way to the curb.

Thank you for the advice on the wiring harness...hopefully this thing doesn't go up in smoke. I've been a little gun shy to dive in too far on the electrical side of things. I just don't know that much about it. No time like the present.

Thank you guys for the help!!!

Gabe

There was comedian on the radio years ago that was talking about finding his mom's tampons when he was a kid, he thought they were little sticks of dynamite so he was lighting them and throwing them over the neighbors fence.:biggrin2:

Gabe just do a quick google image search or eBay search and you’ll see the proper switch has 5 terminals my good man. Straight answer :beerchug:

You were given the straight answer. The "straight answer" is again.....

Again, thank you guys a ton for the help. I'm really excited to fire this tractor up! Waiting on USED parts, haha. Sorry R Bedell, your probably right, should've bought new.

Thank you!

Tim, they will just burn, to put it out just tamp on it.:biggrin2:

I gotta give you credit, that's pretty darn funny.

It was the ignition. The 1811 is running great. I warmed it up for 15 min at 1/4 throttle, another 15 at half. Ran it for an hour doing some light mowing on dry leafs. Gonna change the oil again and I think it should be good after that. You guys saved me a bunch of headache and some cash, thank you!!

One of the oil lines is leaking. Looking for some advice on replacing it. Would you build your own line or just buy a new one? The low oil sensor is also leaking from the top of it. Is that something that can be picked up at an auto parts store or a Cub dealer?

Here's a link to a video:

https://youtu.be/SfiXFZWwEgw

I used the angle grinder with a thin cutoff wheel to split and remove the crimped on brass sleeves. Put gear type hose clamps on and stopped the leaks.

I think that's a fine fix. Only I'd replace the hose too. Make sure to use oil rated hose. Transmission line cooler hose will work. Hose clamps don't scare me on that system. Relatively low pressure. (Under 50 psi.)


You can get a new sender from an auto part store. Just a low pressure switch. I would find one that trips at around 8 PSI or so.

I kept the light, but installed an oil pressure gauge. Now I know what it's running all the time.