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1811 >>>>> 1812
While the 1811 is apart I put a dual control valve in it. But one of the side fittings is missing, and I need to make new lines from the valve to the hydro.
Anybody know what the specs are on the right angle fittings that go into the side of the dual control valve? They look like a straight SAE/oring boss type into the valve, then to a flared fitting to the tube. Maybe an AN style? ( I am not a hydraulics guy but know there are some gurus here). OD of the threads measures about 0.560" - the ones going into the side from the hydro lines are larger nuts than the ones connecting to the rubber hoses. Then I will need some 3/8" tubing. Will brake line suffice? I can flare it, but the stock ones have a small collar around the end of the tube before the flare nut. I was hoping to reuse the nuts off the old lines of which I have several extra. Is that collar reusable? Finally the hoses that go through the front of the frame may need a clip to hold them in place? Any insights on what type and where to get one of those? |
Would one of the fittings from the original valve work?
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Here's a good place to start. Item #19 is just a standard external snap ring. Take the coupler to a hardware store and find one to fit.
http://www.cubcadet-parts-direct.com...0-A/0029900013 |
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You say you can flare it..... but "regular" flare (the degree(s) that flaring blocks are you buy about anywhere) is 45 deg, and hydraulic flare is 37 deg. It will work.... but has a possibility of leaks. As low of pressure as it is, it will probably be fine. But, if used with the sleeve, the sleeve is for 37 deg. You are better off finding a 37 deg flaring tool. Brake line will work, yes. You can buy the nuts and sleeves from McMaster Carr. |
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Looks like I can buy those tubes pre bent... over $150 for the set!!!! Brake line will be cheaper |
You didn't say you had the couplers.....
Google a flaring tool. McMaster has them, but they are pricey. You may be able to find one on the cheap. |
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Are you talking about the way they hook up on the valve like these do? The lines are different coming up from the hydro too. The input and return come in on the bottom of the single spool but they come in on the side of the double spool.
1811 single spool Attachment 88591 882 double spool Attachment 88592 |
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraul...9-6801-6-6.axd
This is the fitting you need, it is SAE 6 by jic 6. Like Jmech said, nuts and ferrules from McMaster-Carr. 3/8 OD steel brake line from Napa or wherever. Just look for a 37 degree flaring tool on eBay. 45-degree will work but if you're buying a tool just for the job might as well go with the correct flare angle |
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Thanks everyone, the usual fantastic cut to the chase information.
Just might be able to get this going before first snow.... as long as it doesnt snow any time soon! :beerchug: |
It is snowing!
BUT - I just put the tins back on and it is running great. Dual hydraulics work. Engine sounds smooth. Now to just log hours pushing snow and see what little nitty things come up. I do have a second set of tins but they are in primer, I did not get them painted before the snow started. No worries, it will happen and it is ready to run in the meantime. Will see if I can get an action shot later... Oh, I was going to order a set of decals from Maple but the 1812 decal set doesnt include the tunnel cover sticker. But the 1811 set does. Anyone know where I can get just a tunnel cover sticker? |
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Call Maple Hunter and then will sell you anything you want.
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They both use the same graphic.
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Dark: the same decal just that picture on the website of the 1812 decal set does not include it, but the 1811 set does (based on the images). I just need to call and ask. |
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Small but good. They will sell you a single or a set. After I ruined a "do not tow" decal during install, I called to purchase the single decal and they sent it to me free of charge. Great people!
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Backfire
Ok, after plowing for a bit (maybe 30 mins) the engine would give an occasional backfire. It would start surging a little before the backfire happens.
What can cause backfire? (I have never thought about what is actually happening) If I put a little choke on it seemed to smooth out and run fine. I wonder if it is starving for fuel. I do notice the inline fuel filter isnt 'full'. Just some gas in the lower 1/4 of the see through filter. But I did not flush the tank before putting it back on, and it has a shutoff valve, so wonder if a problem there. There is only one screw on the carb to turn. But it starts (even when cold) and runs fine at first. |
Backfiring can be caused by a lot of things, exhaust leaks, valve lash, running lean, bad shutoff off valve and the list goes on and on.. In the last 1872 I purchase the M18 seem to starve for fuel like your if I push the throttle up, I did the K.I.S.S things first AKA Air filter/spark plug/gas filter/ clean the carb and adjust the mixture and the idle screw by the book. Better but still struggle to go up in the RPM, I swap a gas pump from a spare M18 I have and adjust the mixture and the idle screw again, Problem solved! Since that M18 never backfire I didn't look further but you may have to. :Huh:
I'm surprise no one shim in to help you, maybe you get better result if you post that question in the engine section? |
Thanks Skull. Well this thread is all over the place so once I get serious into troubleshooting I will repost in engine.
The interesting thing (to me) is it seems to run great for a while and also when starting. So at first glance at least, seems to only come on after about 30mins of use. BUT - I need to repeat that pattern a few times and see. I did just have the engine down to put in a new fuel pump and had the heads off and manifold/carb off and cleaned carb. So lots of potential screwups... :bigthink: |
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btw - decals on order.
They do have the tunnel cover sticker separately (said they dont make 1812 tunnel sticker but I just got an 1811 sticker) |
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I procrastinated on this long enough that it is now running great. Maybe a piece of dirt in the fuel cleared, but have not had the surging issues lately.
Starts when below 10F, with ease. Remarkable. Picked up decals from Maple. Tins are painted (see pics), doesnt suck too bad. I gotta prep and spray yeller. The 45 degree flare on the hydraulics are leaking going into the hydro. More work on those. For now I put a piece of cardboard under it to catch the drips but when the fenders come off will re-eval those flared fittings. May make an adapter for my flaring tool, or borrow one, or buy a cheapie. Cant live with drippy leaks, always annoying. In the meantime a foot of snow due today so it is going to get another workout. :beerchug: |
On the leaking fittin's
Been my long time experience, that while *45 and *37 are not recommended together, it works in the real world. I mostly just snug them a bit tighter, sometimes back them off and re tighten. Possibly the tubing flair is a bit short when you flared it, or it split? ( I don't know your expertise/experience):bigthink: Don't accept failure too easily. |
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:) Just saying anything is possible. I will get them to stop leaking. I work slow, but get there eventually. And do appreciate all the great inputs and encouragement from this site. :beerchug: |
Paint job look "georgeous" from where I sit! :beerchug:
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I just did the same with hydraulic lines on my 1864. I used my 45 degree tool and used 3/8 sleeves and nuts for 37. So far everything seems good. Sorry for the poor pictures, just got a new phone so im learning
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Paint looks real good there yeeter.:ThumbsUp:
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