First cub
 

Hi there: totally new here , been lurking and decided to pull the trigger on a 1989 1811 in pretty good condition. The engine was rebuilt and has about 30 hrs on it. I needed something for just snow to clear a 180 ft driveway here in New England and this tractor seemed to fit the bill, it came with weights chains and the 450 blower. My other option was to fit a snow thrower on the front of my Craftsman lawn tractor. - I soon talked myself out of that!. Anyhow, I got the tractor home yesterday and was a little disappointed to find a very small puddle of tranny fluid on the garage floor after running it for a bit and operating the hydraulic lift etc. I wanted to find out where it was coming from so I took off all the covers and after cleaning everything and running again it's clear it's coming from the drive shaft entering the pump. After it's stopped it no longer leaks.

So my questions are ; is this normal and a big deal on a 30 year old tractor and should I fix it.? Or just leave it , let it drip and keep the fluid topped up.?
Is there anything that could cause the leak like over filling the tranny or too much pressure build up etc.?

And last but not least how do I get the drive shaft out of the pump to replace the seal if I decide to tackle it? I don't think I need to remove the transmission and can maybe decouple the shaft and get at it that way?

I have attached some pics of the tractor and also the drive shaft leak point into the pump.

Any assistance or advice would be much appreciated , I'm totally new to tractors of this vintage but I can tell straight away by driving it that this thing blows the socks off my 24 hp Craftsman ..way more torque !! And it's built like a tank. They certainly don't build them like this any more.

Role on snow here in New England

Cheers Tom

Welcome, I'm also new here. A friend donated his abandoned 1811 to me since I like to tinker. It was parked in a barn 11 years ago. I wanted a real tractor to push snow and I think this will do it. I'm just looking for some chains and a blade and I'll be ready IF we get any snow this year.

I've had to repair quite a few things on mine to get it running well but this 1811 was built to be repaired unlike my troy bilt. I posted several pictures of the issues I've had with it over the last couple weeks. Just search for "barn find". This weekend I'll install new front wheel bearings and try to to tighten up the sloppy front axle.

And don't mind the trolls. They're harmless. Look out.... here comes another one.... just pretend you don't see him.

Rob

very nice, welcome to the forum

Congrats on the 1811. They are considered one of the best Cub's. As for the trans leak, this far into the season I would just live with the leak and keep the fluid topped off. It never fails that you will no sooner get it torn apart and you will need it.

Nice first Cub! Welcome to the forum!

Welcome to the forum! :Welcome2:

Like stated, the 1811 is one of the best GT's Cub Cadet ever made. Second only to a Super Garden tractor, or maybe an 1864 and that's only because it (1811) doesn't have power steering. (And you will wish it did with that blower on it! :bigeyes:)

I have ran that combo for years. Great set up. You are going to wish you had a cab after blowing a lot of snow with it though. :biggrin2:
You got a really nice machine. Looks to be in good shape! The blower looks as if it hasn't ever really been used.

As far as the leak goes.... It wouldn't take long to pull the driveshaft and replace the seal. Is it a common issue? Well..... it's a 30 year old machine. I've replaced the seal in mine at least once, maybe twice in the 15 or so years I've had it. There are some other places that are more common to leak, such as the trunion seals, cork gasket and relief valves. I'd probably take an afternoon and fix it. Taking the shaft out is not terribly easy on that tractor. Either the rear or the engine has to be unbolted and slid back a bit to get the shaft out. For what you have to fix, I'd probably loosen the engine plate. No reason to take the rear loose unless you need to.

As a note: I'd be changing at least the filter on the hydro. I can see it in the pic. They haven't used that logo is quite some time. May even be the original filter. Makes me wonder if the oil in the rear has ever been changed. I'd change both oil and filter. A Wix 1410 or Napa 51410 is the filter you need.

Thanks a lot for the replies guys. The filter has 30 hours on it based on the hours scribbled on it. But who knows?

As for the drive shaft removal how far do I need to slide the engine forward to get the shaft clear so I can take that other piece off the front of the pump?.what is that piece - some sort of bearing housing? Is there anything else in there worth changing other than the lip seal.

Would I need to remove this piece to get the seal out?


Is there anything else I should be careful of or do here when sliding the shaft out by loosening the engine mounts?

Like another poster said - I will leave this until spring probably because I am bound to screw things up and likely make it worse ..and that gives me plenty of time to fix it.

Is the steering really that bad .I would imagine with the blower lifted a small amount it would make it easier .!

Anyway thanks a lot for the replies

Looking forward to trying her out on some white stuff.

Thanks

Yea, nice tractor and set up! Maybe use the 1811 for the winter, read up and investigate what all is involved with the leaks in the hydro pump. Also, if splitting the tractor, you could give the two halves a good, deserved degreasing and cleaning!

Real nice tractor!!!

:buttrock:

edit: As for the steering resistance, for me it's no problem. However, a necker knob on the steering wheel will be a cheep and effective way to steer! I plan on adding one to my 1450 !

I have removed and installed many driveshafts without moving the engine. There are spacers under the motor, so you will have fun getting them right again.
Very simple procedure but some may not want to do it this way.

I just unbolt the big plate. 6 bolts. Easier than taking the engine off the plate. Only has to slide a little bit.

Ive done it your way too Lew. More than once! :biggrin2:

Yes I forgot that part as I like doing it the better way.
Either way you have to get you hanny hanny's in there to unbolt the coupler from the rag joints.

So which is easier ?...I guess the other way would involve sliding the fan and coupling back somehow to expose the shaft - I don't remember seeing bolts securing the shaft to the rag joint coupling are there pins forward and aft of the joint ?...sound like a recipe for disaster for me...30 year old rusted pins don't like to budge I would bet

I'm leaning towards the engine - how many inches slide to expose the shaft?

Download the service manual here to help you fix your 1811.

http://manuals.mtdproducts.com/mtd/D...r2=2&number3=3

Jon had the filter numbers transposed. The Wix is 51410 and the NAPA is 1410.

Thanks guys..o.k - I.took a quick look at the manual and I think I understand what needs to be done now, should have googled that first !. Will have a crack at changing that lip seal in the spring!

Nice machine and welcome to OCC.

Make sure that something isn't worn in your driveline causing vibration to cause the seal to fail. There is a ball bushing at each end that wears and also the shaft can wear. I loosen the motor and slide them forward to remove the seal but before you do that grab it and see if there is any play or slop in it.

You can get the seal at any auto parts store. It is a National 471466.

Once you get the driveshaft off, and out of the way. Just pop out the seal, and install the new one.
No need to take the "cap" off.:beerchug:
https://s17.postimg.org/5ktvsc9rj/IMG_1313.jpghttps://s17.postimg.org/ajhe70ir3/IMG_1324.jpg

the drive shaft seems to be sitting solid in the bushings at both ends, hopefully just the pump seal has gone.

You would only be able to tell that if the rag joints are unbolted. Have you unbolted them?

I did not, I understand your point though. I was looking for large abnormal amounts of slop that I could identify with the joints connected. Will wait until the spring now and investigate the whole thing.

Congrats on the nice 1811 Tom and welcome!

The 1811 is an awesome GT. I sold one this summer to a friend. I miss it.

The steering is hard to turn with a blower on the front if the grease zerks haven't been regularly pumped with grease. The steering gear can take a lot of grease. I put some high performance Teflon lube down the steering wheel shaft and in the tie rod ends and I think that helps a lot. I also use a spinner on the wheel.

It looks as though the auger is a little bent on the snow blower. I use a large Crescent wrench, or two, to straighten my auger if it needs it.

Have fun this winter blowing snow!

PeterJ

Great score!!!!:beerchug:

Hi Guys : so I'm 2 mildish snow storms in now and can't believe how good this rig is with the blower on front - so much fun clearing my driveway ! - I actually look forward to a bit of the white stuff now. Really glad I opted for this vs a blower for my lawn tractor.

So I topped off my tranny fluid before the last storm because of the seal leak and after I was finished up noticed that I was getting a lot more leakage than before from what I guessed was the seal. However I could see a load of oil around those forward reverse check valves on top of the pump housing. I cleaned them up and then rolled the tractor back and forth a few feet and noticed oil coming out, quite a bit

Started it again drove around for a few mins, worked the hydraulics and blower and repeated the process and nothing came out they were clean a whistle!

So could I have overfilled the tranny and this excess oil was bleeding out. It seems fine now and I'm back to the slow leak on the drive shaft / pump housing.

Can someone explain what happened here ..are my valves maybe going bad?. It was really coming out and had me quite nervous but it seems to have resolved itself now.

I filled to maybe a little over the line btw

Thanks a lot folks

And happy new year !
Tom

Machtech :beerchug:

Once they start to leak they don't heal themselves. Machtech turns them around in about 8 days if you priority mail them to Mark. cost is around $80.00

Machtech Direct
605 Furnace Rd.
Conneaut Ohio 44030
Phone: 440-499-5813
Email: mark.machtech@gmail.com

So there should be no oil coming out even if over filled? , I would expect to see the leak when I roll it back and forward every time ...right now I don't see anything when I run it or roll it with the engine off.
I will keep an eye on them.

Thanks

You are right about that!:ThumbsUp:

Even if you overfilled the rear, those valves are not supposed to leak.... EVER. Overfilling the rear will cause no leak, anywhere. You would have to fill it completely full to the top (or close) before it would leak out the vent. It's not a cooling system, or a tub. It's all enclosed, and the oil level is probably 4" below the vent.

If they leaked, they will again. You can watch them, but it would be best to get started on the repair before they don't work at all, or spew oil all the time. It is also possible that oil from the front seal was blown back onto them.... you should really get that fixed too.

"So I topped off my tranny fluid before the last storm because of the seal leak and after I was finished up noticed that I was getting a lot more leakage than before from what I guessed was the seal. However I could see a load of oil around those forward reverse check valves on top of the pump housing. I cleaned them up and then rolled the tractor back and forth a few feet and noticed oil coming out, quite a bit"



SO, you could see the fluid coming out of the check valves as you "rolled" it?

I had checked these valves before and no leaking, only after a top off did I notice the oil coming out. It now does not leak when I start , roll the tractor - I was just curious if the top off was making them leak more that is all. I don't fully understand how these valves work. If air can escape one would think that oil could escape under pressure also, especially as it was after an over fill. I would expect it to happen after every run but after testing for a few days they are now bone dry. I know it wasn't splash back , because oil initially came out of clean valves when I rolled it forward and back.

It sounds like the valves are bad or going bad anyway so I will get them rebuilt .

Thanks again

Air can't escape, nothing can escape. Those valves release and allow the fluid to bypass the pump so the tractor can be rolled, without them the tractor would be unmovable. Overfilling the rearend has nothing to do with them leaking.

That's what I needed to know - thanks !

Nice looking 1811 and blower! Those 450 blowers are getting hard to find in good original condition. Glad you're enjoying it so far. And yes, get those auto-release valves pulled and rebuilt when there's a break in the weather. They can let go all at once and make a big mess and ruin all your fun.

Well the last couple days have been a good work out for my 1811 with 450 blower. We got just over a foot with some nice 4-5 ft drifts from a nice Noreaster . Very impressed how she handled it.

I definitely need more weight on the back of the tractor for the bottom of my driveway though . The grade is pretty steep and I slip even in slush pulling back up . Finding the right speed and leaning back over the back wheels with a nice run up seems to be best. I think a few suitcase weights will fix it and if it doesn't will think about filling the tyres.

I did notice the V- belt the previous owner installed on the 450 and had written in pen under the hood was 5/8 x 82" ...the part number states an 84" ...will the 82" be too tight and be likely to break on me . ? - seems to be working o.k...

Thanks a lot again guys!
Tom