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countywacker 12-22-2017 11:08 PM

Cub Cadet 149
 
I have a 1973 Cub Cadet 149. The problem is where the Grip Handle attaches to the Clevis Assy, Hyd Lift (I think that's what its called) the top of the hydraulic to lower and raise the deck, the pin inside broke off. I've been using a cotter pin to reattach it but they seem to break off every so often. Does anyone have any ideas on what I can use that will not break?

DeltaCub 12-22-2017 11:19 PM

The hole for the pin is most likely elongated. The best repair is to remove the two parts, index them for their proper position, mark it. Take them back apart weld the holes and re drill them. The sloppy holes will continue to break just about anything you stick in place of the proper pin if you don't fix it properly. Clear as mud? You could also find another set that isn't as badly worn or a NOS handle.:beerchug:

J-Mech 12-22-2017 11:54 PM

If you are talking about the parts I think you are, it takes a small spirol pin. Far harder than a cotter pin.

How about looking it up in the online parts book on cubcadet.com. See what it shows should be there. Your description is kind of vague.

DeltaCub 12-23-2017 12:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech (Post 441713)
If you are talking about the parts I think you are, it takes a small spirol pin. Far harder than a cotter pin.

How about looking it up in the online parts book on cubcadet.com. See what it shows should be there. Your description is kind of vague.

Spirol pins are strong, but it will not stay in if the corresponding hole(s) are oversized. Again if the hole is so sloppy, a spirol pin will break too.

J-Mech 12-23-2017 12:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DeltaCub (Post 441714)
Spirol pins are strong, but it will not stay in if the corresponding hole(s) are oversized. Again if the hole is so sloppy, a spirol pin will break too.

I agree. But a cotter pin isn't strong enough to hold even in a good tight hole.


That didn't really come out well, but I don't know how else to word it. :biggrin2:

DeltaCub 12-23-2017 12:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech (Post 441716)
I agree. But a cotter pin isn't strong enough to hold even in a good tight hole.


That didn't really come out well, but I don't know how else to word it. :biggrin2:

LOL...I have found on some tractors, PO's have installed the old bent rusty nail trick...:rolleyes:

J-Mech 12-23-2017 12:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DeltaCub (Post 441718)
LOL...I have found on some tractors, PO's have installed the old bent rusty nail trick...:rolleyes:

You know, those actually hold up quite a long time. Longer than a cotter pin!

DeltaCub 12-23-2017 12:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech (Post 441719)
You know, those actually hold up quite a long time. Longer than a cotter pin!

I know you will agree that fixing it correctly is the best way to go. Okay Countywacker....your turn to jump in on this discussion!:beerchug:

countywacker 12-23-2017 12:32 AM

After reading all the post, I may try the rusty nail trick so I can continue to plow the rest of the winter. When spring rolls around, ill look into the "proper" way.

J-Mech 12-23-2017 12:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DeltaCub (Post 441723)
I know you will agree that fixing it correctly is the best way to go.

Completely! :ThumbsUp:

johncub7172 12-23-2017 12:40 AM

I have had the same issue with my 1450. I did bend the lift rod inward toward the seat when trying to tap in that coil pin. Need to have good back bracing on that lift rod. But, I've decided in the future, to up-grade to a 82 Series clamp-on style, and be done with the mess. I plan to order a new lift rod at that point.

john hall 12-23-2017 07:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech (Post 441719)
You know, those actually hold up quite a long time. Longer than a cotter pin!

Dang right, nails can last forever it seems! And pity on the poor guy that does have to remove it.:bash2:

ironman 12-23-2017 07:34 AM

When I got my 149 the previous owner had the same problem. His fix was to tack weld that little square arm right to the handle shaft. Actually, it worked fine until the day came when I wanted to take it all apart.

finsruskw 12-23-2017 09:52 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Here's what you need to do.
Take a short length of 1/4x1" flat and bend one end back on itself around a 5/16" bolt, kind of like a letter "U" with one side longer.
Then drill a hole the size of your handle through from side to side of that end. Be sure to allow enough room between the bolt and the handle. Cut a slot through the bend into the hole and just a bit further into the other side of the hole.
slide the part onto the shaft alongside the original part, align the small hole for the keeper and drill, then cut to length to match as well.
Nest a 5/16" hard bolt in the "U" on the bent end, add a nut and washer and tighten around the handle rod.
It helps to tac weld the nut to one side of the U to aid in assembly.
Hope this is clear.

mortten 12-23-2017 10:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johncub7172 (Post 441728)
I have had the same issue with my 1450. I did bend the lift rod inward toward the seat when trying to tap in that coil pin. Need to have good back bracing on that lift rod. But, I've decided in the future, to up-grade to a 82 Series clamp-on style, and be done with the mess. I plan to order a new lift rod at that point.

Later Quietlines has the same setup.

Sam Mac 12-23-2017 10:44 AM

Had the same problem on my 149, welded it problem solved. :biggrin2:

Edit: Not the recommended proper way to repair but I was in a hurry and if I have to take it apart I have the tools to do it.

ironman 12-23-2017 11:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Mac (Post 441758)
Had the same problem on my 149, welded it problem solved. :biggrin2:

Did You own mine before I got it??:bigthink:

twoton 12-23-2017 12:16 PM

Great post there finsruskw.:beerchug:

finsruskw 12-23-2017 01:28 PM

Thanks.
If there is enough call, I can make a bunch of them up.

Sam Mac 12-23-2017 02:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ironman (Post 441773)
Did You own mine before I got it??:bigthink:

Nope, this one was in Roanoke VA :beerchug:

Sam Mac 12-23-2017 02:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by finsruskw (Post 441753)
Here's what you need to do.
Take a short length of 1/4x1" flat and bend one end back on itself around a 5/16" bolt, kind of like a letter "U" with one side longer.
Then drill a hole the size of your handle through from side to side of that end. Be sure to allow enough room between the bolt and the handle. Cut a slot through the bend into the hole and just a bit further into the other side of the hole.
slide the part onto the shaft alongside the original part, align the small hole for the keeper and drill, then cut to length to match as well.
Nest a 5/16" hard bolt in the "U" on the bent end, add a nut and washer and tighten around the handle rod.
It helps to tac weld the nut to one side of the U to aid in assembly.
Hope this is clear.

Nice work, I bet you can sell a few of those. :beerchug:

J-Mech 12-23-2017 03:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Mac (Post 441801)
Nice work, I bet you can sell a few of those. :beerchug:

I agree, but it is still available from CCC. $40

https://www.cubcadetpartsnmore.com/m...C3--lever.html

twoton 12-23-2017 03:35 PM

Hey finsruskw, another picture or two and a drawing and maybe that would be a candidate for the "Restoration Tips" section...

countywacker 12-23-2017 05:34 PM

Thanks for all the responses. it looks like I have some ideas as of now.


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