New Clutch Disk Very Tight
 

I've installed a new clutch assembly to my 73.
Everything is new, plates, springs (teaser/main), driveshaft, disk etc.
My question is this:
The disk is sandwiched between the 2 pressure plates and will hardly move.
Tapping it moderately with rubber mallet allowed me to line up the drive plate holes.
However, even with pedal fully depressed it does NOT release the clutch disk enough to roll the tractor freely.
Could the new driveshaft spiral pin holes for the plates be drilled too close together for proper function or ...
Do new clutch disks need to be run a little to break in?
Tractor is being rebuilt from ground up so have not run it.
:bash2:

Need a pic, will it will roll if you put it in neutral with the clutch pedal up?

Did you adjust the brake rod for the correct pedal free play?

You would have the internal brake, do you have the brake rod already installed? If you do perhaps the brake is adjusted to the point that it is limiting the clutch release arm movement. You might try disconnecting the brake rod, then try to adjust your clutch.

Edit: Dart1917 beat me to it.

Pic of clutch
 

Gentlemen,

Brake rod disconnected.

Rolling the tractor in neutral causes the engine to turn over...with or without the clutch depressed.

I see no free play in the rear clutch plate (with the groove (not spiral pin hole) when the clutch in depressed.

Here is a pic of the set up.

Thanks for any help.

Additional info
 

When I assembled the clutch pressure plates and drove the spiral pins in, it was already tight enough that the disk would not move.

The rear spiral pin was already bottomed out in the groove when assembled with the front pressure plate and disk in place....

They look like custom pulling parts to me.
Did you get everything as a kit?
3,2,1, install and go?

Rear clutch plate needs be have free play. Sounds like the hole in the drive shaft is off centered or the slot are too narrow or pin is mushroom some.

Maybe it is me...but the rear pressure plate maybe on the wrong side of the disc. Rear pressure plate should be slotted. It looks like it just has a hole.:bigthink:

It does look like it has a hole.

Much thanks
 

Got it figured guys.

darkminion_17 drew my attention to using aftermarket parts.

Pulled the engine off and clutch assembly out.

Mic'ed the aftermarket plates with my original plates....after market plates MUCH thicker, took up the free play area.

I was trying to beef things up a bit...am installing a K341 on the 73. Its a workhorse around here.

Had already resurfaced the original plates, so just used those. Everything A-OK now.

Thanks again guys.

Hello, if those are Zack Kerbers, i know his pulling plates are thicker and use different hole locations for the driveshaft. I don't know if he has stock plates. Mike

You are right...
 

mickb72 you are correct those are Zack Kerbers.

I didn't know they were that much thicker.

I see he has drive shafts as well, however trying to find a machine shop around here to drill the hole for input shaft is like pulling teeth.

Thanks for all the info guys.

I make driveshafts plus other parts. http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=20875

Tell me the locations you want the holes and I'll make it to your specs. $30 plus shipping.

Jeff

If your plates are too FAT and you aint got no machine chop available I bet Jeff would skinny em up for ya to if you asked??:bigthink:

I can thin your plates too. Your choice on either option

I think that clutch was a bit overkill for the application..... but whatever.

I wouldn't turn the disk down, as you spent the money on a heavier set up....why kill it? I would suggest getting the proper shaft made.

New driveshaft?
Who drilled the holes.
Are you using a Cub Cadet throw out bearing or an aftermarket throw out bearing?
It sounds like the holes in the drive shaft are in the right location. I've used the thicker clutch plates and didn't have any problems. You should have enough adjustment using thicker plates.

I'm using stock clutch plates with a blue spring and a Kevlar clutch disc on my 100. I have no slippage issues with this set up. Engine is making around 14 horse power and pulls a 10 inch plow at plow days.

Looks like one of Zach's 6 pin drivers...:bigthink:

Me thinks that you may have ordered the wrong driveshaft there gscott.

Zach has two versions, narrow hole and wide hole...

I never used on of Zach's 6 pin drivers. Are they the same measurements in terms of thickness????

Yes I am aware he has a Zach 6 pin driver.
I just stated what I use.......no need for overkill.

I never used a cub solid driver. How thick are they????

I think they are same measurements as stock. I used a stock driver when i bought his pulling plates. He told me on the phone where the holes in the driveshaft should be. Mike